Hyundai GDI

[GenesisGuy70]

Thank you all for the constructive responses. As I said I know this topic is brought up daily around here and can get annoying. So again, thank you.

I ended up getting PP in 5w30 with a Fram ultra. As was stated, I know the fuel will thin it out to some degree but I'll stay above a 20w. Seemed like the most logical decision. I did get just a minor whiff of fuel in the factory fill. Car was built in October of 2016 and had 200 miles on it when I purchased it last month.

Once the temps start to drop I'll probably dump it and run a mix of 5w20 and 5w30 just to help cold startups....but is probably unnecessary. Would prefer to run PUP and will probably order it from Amazon and have it ready to go. And I think I'm going to run Hyundai filters after this change. Consensus around here seems to be they're of good quality and comparable to FU anyways. OCI is going to be set at 6,000 from here on out.

How come 0w30 is hard to find? I think that'd be my definitive year-round grade if I could find it. Is there no practical benefit to an 0w30?

Will also run a PEA based cleaner every 5-7500 as well, in addition to the TT fuel. Though the owners manual says you only need to do one or the other might as well considering they're low cost.

 

[Errtt]

On my DD Hyundai 2.4L although the fill cap has 5w-20 I been running 5w-30 since around mid 50k on the clock. Stuck to it and closing 133k now. I think the book was okay for 5w-30 as we have triple digit temps here. Maybe 10-30 was in there but can't really recall.

 

[dgunay]

Carbon buildup in DI engines is overly exaggerated. If you really worry about it, install an aftermarket oil catch can.

 

[wemay]

Sonata Sport 2.4L in my signature will continue getting Valvoline SynPower 5W-20 at severe service interval of 3750. It exceeds recommended specs, has a 10% Noack, a decent price and because of my long time fondness for Valvoline.

Any major brand synthetic will be more than fine and most conventional oils will meet spec too. Enjoy the ride.

 

[Revving2Redline]

Run 5w30 HTO-06 spec oil. Run a bottle of Gumout Regane every 10k. Did this and washed my throttle body with CRC GDi intake cleaner every 5k with either non ethanol 87 or top tier 89.

 

[wemay]

Originally Posted By: Marco620
Run 5w30 HTO-06 spec oil. Run a bottle of Gumout Regane every 10k. Did this and washed my throttle body with CRC GDi intake cleaner every 5k with either non ethanol 87 or top tier 89.


Why HTO-06? The 2.4 isn't turbo.

 

[ChrisD46]

2017 Sonata owner here ( non-turbo) : I use M1 10W30 as part of my GDI plan (see below) :

*Lowest NOACK
*Lower calcium than PP , QSUD , etc. (to prevent LSPI)
*30 weight to help with GDI fuel dilution
*M1 10W30 is a thinner 30 weight (thinner even than M1 5W30 interestingly enough) so not worried it is too thick or take a hit on gas mileage
*10W30 has less VI's than 5W or 0W oils (research indicates VI's may lead to intake valve deposits in Hyundai GDI engines)
*5K OCI's (soot , fuel dilution , higher RPM's due to GDI even in general service) make me more comfortable with 5K OCI's .
*Top Tier Fuel

If your temps do NOT get below 0 degrees F. then the M1 10W30 is for you ... If temps get below 0 degrees F. then I would use M1 5W20 (less VI's than 5W30) for a 3750 ~ 4000 mile run during Winter then switch back to M1 10W30 in Spring through Fall . **Eventually with newer oils made for GDI the oil makers will play with VI's , calcium levels , oil weights , etc. to better optimize oils for GDI . Until then - my money is on M1 10W30 .

 

[wemay]

GDi deposits usually begin early on in platforms with this issue. I have yet to see where Hyundai/Kia are affected. And LSPI is a GDi+small displacement+turbo issue. Anecdotally, I've now owned 4 Hyundai. None of which showed symptoms of excessive deposits:

'12 Veloster 1.6L, 88K miles - no issue (conventional oils)
'13 Santa Fe Sport 2.0T, 97K miles - no issues (mostly syns but blnds too)
'10 Sonata 2.4 GLS, 117K miles - bad knock sensor (syn, conventional)
'17 Sonata Sport 2.4 to be continued

 

[PimTac]

Wemay, how would you describe your driving style? Spirited? Light foot?

 

[wemay]

Originally Posted By: PimTac
Wemay, how would you describe your driving style? Spirited? Light foot?

Used to be very much spirited. Now a days it's mixed. My wife drives the Santa Fe Sport. She's light footed and drives in heavy traffic daily.

 

[PimTac]

Thanks for the answer. One thought is that spirited driving keeps the intakes a bit cleaner versus the laid back style. It may depend more in how many more higher speed miles might benefit the engines instead of stop an go short trips.

 

[wemay]

Yes, a few "Italian tune-up" miles are employed.

 

[SnakeOil]

Hyundai/Kia GDI engines really don't have coking problems on the valves. While the intake valves are open, the direct inject sprays a short burst of fuel that leaves the chamber and into the intake tract. This is done to rinse the valves with fuel and therefore fuel additive. You're really overthinking this. I've seen these cars close to 200k with no issues and just going to Jiffy Lube or Walmart for the cheapest oil. The Hyundai "Theta" engine has been a solid performer since it's inception over a decade ago. Direct injection was added 7 years ago. If there were any kind of coking problems, they would have been revealed by now.

If you do short trips, use a 30 weight synthetic for dilution. If you do long trips that let the oil heat up and burn off the fuel dilution, use a 20 weight synthetic. Hyundai says 3750 severe and 7500 normal for intervals. There are plenty of solid UOA's on here with 10k or more miles.

Good luck!

<--- Former Kia Service Advisor

 

[wemay]

Originally Posted By: SnakeOil
Hyundai/Kia GDI engines really don't have coking problems on the valves. While the intake valves are open, the direct inject sprays a short burst of fuel that leaves the chamber and into the intake tract. This is done to rinse the valves with fuel and therefore fuel additive. You're really overthinking this. I've seen these cars close to 200k with no issues and just going to Jiffy Lube or Walmart for the cheapest oil. The Hyundai "Theta" engine has been a solid performer since it's inception over a decade ago. Direct injection was added 7 years ago. If there were any kind of coking problems, they would have been revealed by now.

If you do short trips, use a 30 weight synthetic for dilution. If you do long trips that let the oil heat up and burn off the fuel dilution, use a 20 weight synthetic. Hyundai says 3750 severe and 7500 normal for intervals. There are plenty of solid UOA's on here with 10k or more miles.

Good luck!

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[ChrisD46]

So your saying based on this injection sequence - the intake valves come into fuel when they are closing back up the intake tract ? In this case top tier gas or Techron every 5K miles would show preventative coking benefit ?
Originally Posted By: SnakeOil
Hyundai/Kia GDI engines really don't have coking problems on the valves. While the intake valves are open, the direct inject sprays a short burst of fuel that leaves the chamber and into the intake tract. This is done to rinse the valves with fuel and therefore fuel additive. You're really overthinking this. I've seen these cars close to 200k with no issues and just going to Jiffy Lube or Walmart for the cheapest oil. The Hyundai "Theta" engine has been a solid performer since it's inception over a decade ago. Direct injection was added 7 years ago. If there were any kind of coking problems, they would have been revealed by now.

If you do short trips, use a 30 weight synthetic for dilution. If you do long trips that let the oil heat up and burn off the fuel dilution, use a 20 weight synthetic. Hyundai says 3750 severe and 7500 normal for intervals. There are plenty of solid UOA's on here with 10k or more miles.

Good luck!

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