Hydrostatic Transmission
- Thread starter Colt45ws
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Whoo! It loves the RTS. It quiet again. Or at least to low to be heard over the engine, which is quiet enough. You can hear a little under load, but steady state its pretty quiet. Way more responsive. Have to learn to let off gracefully, because it will lock the rear wheels on concrete if you just let off.
Hello all.
I have a 17 year old Simplicity hydrostatic. It came from the factory with 10W-30 "Simplicity Brand Oil" which I ran for 12 years (350 hrs) without a problem. When I changed it the oil was in decent shape for being in there that long. The shop I bought it at suggested I not change the oil in the unit because it is hard to get the "air" out and the wheel turning..they are right.
Big tear down too.
I changed the hydrostat lube to to Mobil-1 10W-30 despite their recommendations of leaving it alone... and it has ran great since.
The engine gets 15W-50 M-1. Blackstone says minimal wear but the oils shears after 8 hrs. So I am trying Motul 100% Syn oil for the fun of it.
I have a 17 year old Simplicity hydrostatic. It came from the factory with 10W-30 "Simplicity Brand Oil" which I ran for 12 years (350 hrs) without a problem. When I changed it the oil was in decent shape for being in there that long. The shop I bought it at suggested I not change the oil in the unit because it is hard to get the "air" out and the wheel turning..they are right.
Big tear down too.
I changed the hydrostat lube to to Mobil-1 10W-30 despite their recommendations of leaving it alone... and it has ran great since.
The engine gets 15W-50 M-1. Blackstone says minimal wear but the oils shears after 8 hrs. So I am trying Motul 100% Syn oil for the fun of it.
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Originally Posted By: Pete591
Hello all.
I have a 17 year old Simplicity hydrostatic. It came from the factory with 10W-30 "Simplicity Brand Oil"
Interesting! Old Simplicities with a Sauer/Sunstrand/Danfoss hydro spec'd the OEM stuff, 20wt motor oil or ATF. Commonly available 5w20 works perfectly in them. I'm curious to know what trans your Simplicity has?
Joel
Hello all.
I have a 17 year old Simplicity hydrostatic. It came from the factory with 10W-30 "Simplicity Brand Oil"
Interesting! Old Simplicities with a Sauer/Sunstrand/Danfoss hydro spec'd the OEM stuff, 20wt motor oil or ATF. Commonly available 5w20 works perfectly in them. I'm curious to know what trans your Simplicity has?
Joel
I learned I was wrong in my last post regarding the brand of Hydrostatic Trans in my Simplicity. Simplicity and Deere use
Tuff Torque Transmissions
Models:
K46 Tuff Torque - X300
K58 Tuff Torque - X304 thru X340
All units call for synthetic 5W-30 or 10W-30 depending on season and outdoor temps.
Tuff Torque Transmissions
Models:
K46 Tuff Torque - X300
K58 Tuff Torque - X304 thru X340
All units call for synthetic 5W-30 or 10W-30 depending on season and outdoor temps.
Originally Posted By: Pete591
I learned I was wrong in my last post regarding the brand of Hydrostatic Trans in my Simplicity. Simplicity and Deere use
Tuff Torque Transmissions
Models:
K46 Tuff Torque - X300
K58 Tuff Torque - X304 thru X340
All units call for synthetic 5W-30 or 10W-30 depending on season and outdoor temps.
Hmmm.. I knew Simplicity used TuffTorq now, but didn't know they went with TuffTorq ~17yrs ago. JD has used TT for a good 15+ years. TuffTorqs do seem to have better longevity than Hydro-Gear.
Joel
I learned I was wrong in my last post regarding the brand of Hydrostatic Trans in my Simplicity. Simplicity and Deere use
Tuff Torque Transmissions
Models:
K46 Tuff Torque - X300
K58 Tuff Torque - X304 thru X340
All units call for synthetic 5W-30 or 10W-30 depending on season and outdoor temps.
Hmmm.. I knew Simplicity used TuffTorq now, but didn't know they went with TuffTorq ~17yrs ago. JD has used TT for a good 15+ years. TuffTorqs do seem to have better longevity than Hydro-Gear.
Joel
Originally Posted By: Pete591
How often do you think the oil should be changed; manual says 350 hrs.
If it's got a means to drain/fill and a filter, I like to do them every 2yrs, regardless of hours. For commercial usage, probably more. The trans sump (diff housing) on my Cub 2544 holds 6qts and has a spin-on filter. I'm paranoid of moisture build-up in there from my once a week, ~30hrs/year max usage.
Joel
How often do you think the oil should be changed; manual says 350 hrs.
If it's got a means to drain/fill and a filter, I like to do them every 2yrs, regardless of hours. For commercial usage, probably more. The trans sump (diff housing) on my Cub 2544 holds 6qts and has a spin-on filter. I'm paranoid of moisture build-up in there from my once a week, ~30hrs/year max usage.
Joel
FYI
I found out that Amsoil has a Tractor Hydrolic Oil. I ordered 4 qts. Amsoil also has a pump that fits their bottles to pump it in from the bottom (like you do on boat outdrives) so that it pushes out any air in the system...out.. as it fills. Should make the job easy enough to do seasonally.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/ath.aspx
I found out that Amsoil has a Tractor Hydrolic Oil. I ordered 4 qts. Amsoil also has a pump that fits their bottles to pump it in from the bottom (like you do on boat outdrives) so that it pushes out any air in the system...out.. as it fills. Should make the job easy enough to do seasonally.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/ath.aspx
Pulled the lid and it turns out I have an Eaton 751 on my Simplicity 16LTH.
It is holding up well. Any info on Eaton Hydro Units?
http://hydraulics.eaton.com/products/pdfs/07-416.pdf
It is holding up well. Any info on Eaton Hydro Units?
http://hydraulics.eaton.com/products/pdfs/07-416.pdf
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Hehee.. glad to see you finally took a look at what you had. No idea on an Eaton hydrostatic transaxle. Eaton is a big name, so it's got to be a good product.
Okay, It does not like the RTS. Its making MORE noise and not going as fast. Going to try M1 15W50.
Originally Posted By: Onmo'Eegusee
Okay, It does not like the RTS. Its making MORE noise and not going as fast. Going to try M1 15W50.
Diagnosing Noise:
All kind of "noises"..
Then there are actual components like pumps, planets, final drives or even something like a valve buzz that can cause you to want to tear your hair out. The trick is to find a way to make the noise change, or stop, and then examine what this change did to affect the noise.
Pump noises are simple. They change when pressure changes.
Torque converter noises are easy to isolate. Since the entire converter (pump, turbine and stator) turns while the transmission is in park and neutral, a converter noise will go away in those ranges
These make the most difficult noises to diagnose. This is where it is important to remember the first rule: A component cannot make a noise if it is not moving.
Final drive noises are perhaps the easiest of all to diagnose. The noise will increase in pitch as vehicle speed increases
Okay, It does not like the RTS. Its making MORE noise and not going as fast. Going to try M1 15W50.
Diagnosing Noise:
All kind of "noises"..
Then there are actual components like pumps, planets, final drives or even something like a valve buzz that can cause you to want to tear your hair out. The trick is to find a way to make the noise change, or stop, and then examine what this change did to affect the noise.
Pump noises are simple. They change when pressure changes.
Torque converter noises are easy to isolate. Since the entire converter (pump, turbine and stator) turns while the transmission is in park and neutral, a converter noise will go away in those ranges
These make the most difficult noises to diagnose. This is where it is important to remember the first rule: A component cannot make a noise if it is not moving.
Final drive noises are perhaps the easiest of all to diagnose. The noise will increase in pitch as vehicle speed increases
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I changed it out with the 15W50, Seems to be working again. When I dropped it out the unit was HOT and it had been sitting for a half hour or so. Another interesting thing was when I pulled the vent tube off it threw up oil all over.
FYI guys...a quick and easy way to change Hydrostatic fluid.
Amsoil makes a pump that fits all their bottles so you can drain and then fill from the bottom up with a supplied universal adapter that goes into the drain plug.
That way you push the air up and out as you fill and it's a lot easier on the drive as air in the system and the load of weight from the tractor is why many manufacturers do not recommend changing the fluid unless at repair or 400 hrs I found out.
It's so easy it can be done seasonally this way.
Of course to use the pump you need an "Amsoil Oil Bottle"
But I use Amsoil's 5W-30 Hydrostatic Tractor oil and it's great!
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/g2039.aspx
http://www.amsoil.com/catalog.aspx?category=12
See ya
Amsoil makes a pump that fits all their bottles so you can drain and then fill from the bottom up with a supplied universal adapter that goes into the drain plug.
That way you push the air up and out as you fill and it's a lot easier on the drive as air in the system and the load of weight from the tractor is why many manufacturers do not recommend changing the fluid unless at repair or 400 hrs I found out.
It's so easy it can be done seasonally this way.
Of course to use the pump you need an "Amsoil Oil Bottle"
But I use Amsoil's 5W-30 Hydrostatic Tractor oil and it's great!
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/g2039.aspx
http://www.amsoil.com/catalog.aspx?category=12
See ya
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