How much residual oil leftover after oil change?
- Thread starter Klutch9
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At least enough residual oil is left to ensure the engine has some lubrication on startup, while the new fill is coming up to pressure, especially if you don't prefill the filter.
Originally Posted By: jldcol
OOh, I got a new smart donkey answer, ready: How much residual oil leftover after a oil change? answer to much to easily remove and to little to worry about.
This is a very good answer....
If you have ever taken an engine apart, you will know that there is oil trapped in the oil galleries of the block, the crankshft is drilled hollow and containes oil, the lifters are full of oil, so is the oil pump, not to mention all the low spots on the head or block where the oil will pool. this is why I don't get why some people pour a bottle of new oil through the engine in a vain attempt to "wash" out the old oil. Get a life people; a little left over oil will make no difference. Let worry about important things.
OOh, I got a new smart donkey answer, ready: How much residual oil leftover after a oil change? answer to much to easily remove and to little to worry about.
This is a very good answer....
If you have ever taken an engine apart, you will know that there is oil trapped in the oil galleries of the block, the crankshft is drilled hollow and containes oil, the lifters are full of oil, so is the oil pump, not to mention all the low spots on the head or block where the oil will pool. this is why I don't get why some people pour a bottle of new oil through the engine in a vain attempt to "wash" out the old oil. Get a life people; a little left over oil will make no difference. Let worry about important things.
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Originally Posted By: jldcol
OOh, I got a new smart donkey answer, ready: How much residual oil leftover after a oil change? answer to much to easily remove and to little to worry about.
^^Right on!
OOh, I got a new smart donkey answer, ready: How much residual oil leftover after a oil change? answer to much to easily remove and to little to worry about.
^^Right on!
Originally Posted By: crinkles
just enough to make sure your engine doesn't detonate on the first startup.
geez, there are more things to worry about in life...
well of course there are. heck, then by your reasoning, all of us are wasting our time on this site because lets face it... what kind of oil is in our car doesn't mean [censored] compared to other more important things. but that doesn't stop us from asking and becoming more knowledgeable about it. im just saying.
just enough to make sure your engine doesn't detonate on the first startup.
geez, there are more things to worry about in life...
well of course there are. heck, then by your reasoning, all of us are wasting our time on this site because lets face it... what kind of oil is in our car doesn't mean [censored] compared to other more important things. but that doesn't stop us from asking and becoming more knowledgeable about it. im just saying.
^^ Exactly, Klutch9.
The original question was a factual one.
Those who said "don't worry about it" are making a value judgment -- like you know what's good for him, and he doesn't. That's kind of silly.
Let's treat each other like adults. Answer the question, or don't. Let the asker decide what to do with it.
The original question was a factual one.
Those who said "don't worry about it" are making a value judgment -- like you know what's good for him, and he doesn't. That's kind of silly.
Let's treat each other like adults. Answer the question, or don't. Let the asker decide what to do with it.
The Local BMW dealer had a break-in a few years ago with several cars stolen. One car in the shop the mechanic allowed the oil to drain overnight. That car was driven for 6KM with no oil before the engine seized, and the thief left it at the side of the road. That engine ran on the oil film that stays on the engine parts after the pan is drained.
Which makes me wonder why some people have to fill a new filter with oil, or worry about the few seconds an engine runs before the new oil flows through after a change.
Which makes me wonder why some people have to fill a new filter with oil, or worry about the few seconds an engine runs before the new oil flows through after a change.
Sorry to resurect an old thread but I have to reply. So when the BMW was stolen it had no oil. At what exact point can you tell me there was any damage at all. Any damage is too much for me. What we can tell by your scenario is that catastrophic failure was at the point in which the car wouldn't run.
On the Honda 2.2L 4-cyl:
Oil capacity after engine disassembly: 4.9 quarts
After oil change, including oil filter: 3.8 quarts.
per the service manual.
edit: didn't realize it was an old post and now can't delete this..
Oil capacity after engine disassembly: 4.9 quarts
After oil change, including oil filter: 3.8 quarts.
per the service manual.
edit: didn't realize it was an old post and now can't delete this..
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Well, facts are always more imformative than opinion.
I once had to do an industry standard Sequence VG engine test which uses an old Ford 4.6L V8. This test was a bit of an oddball in that a full Calcium oil was run for the first half of the test, drained, replaced with an all Magnesium oil, and then run again.
It came as something of a surprise when the ICP metal analysis of the second oil, once added to the engine, contained around about 20% Calcium, suggesting that only 80% of the original oil had drained from the engine! Remember this wasn't an oil change carried out by some shoddy Jiffy Lube-like outfit. This was done under lab conditions by professional guys who do this for a living.
Some people have asked, does it matter? I would say most of the time, and particularly in the US where short OCIs are the norm, it doesn't. However if you are a lover of European long drain intervals, it matters a lot. I can't remember the details of that test now but I do recall is that the original Calcium based oil was shot to bits after 216 hours of engine-on time; the KV100 was way up, TBN was totally gone and TAN was up too. When the second oil was added and mixed with the heel of the original oil, the first thing that happened was an instantaneous drop in the second oil's TBN, as the new oil's detergent neutralised all the acidic gunk in the old oil. If this happened in real life, you would be starting your second long drain OCI on an oil that just wouldn't be up to the task!
It came as something of a surprise when the ICP metal analysis of the second oil, once added to the engine, contained around about 20% Calcium, suggesting that only 80% of the original oil had drained from the engine! Remember this wasn't an oil change carried out by some shoddy Jiffy Lube-like outfit. This was done under lab conditions by professional guys who do this for a living.
Some people have asked, does it matter? I would say most of the time, and particularly in the US where short OCIs are the norm, it doesn't. However if you are a lover of European long drain intervals, it matters a lot. I can't remember the details of that test now but I do recall is that the original Calcium based oil was shot to bits after 216 hours of engine-on time; the KV100 was way up, TBN was totally gone and TAN was up too. When the second oil was added and mixed with the heel of the original oil, the first thing that happened was an instantaneous drop in the second oil's TBN, as the new oil's detergent neutralised all the acidic gunk in the old oil. If this happened in real life, you would be starting your second long drain OCI on an oil that just wouldn't be up to the task!
Originally Posted By: SonofJoe
I once had to do an industry standard Sequence VG engine test which uses an old Ford 4.6L V8. This test was a bit of an oddball in that a full Calcium oil was run for the first half of the test, drained, replaced with an all Magnesium oil, and then run again.
It came as something of a surprise when the ICP metal analysis of the second oil, once added to the engine, contained around about 20% Calcium, suggesting that only 80% of the original oil had drained from the engine! Remember this wasn't an oil change carried out by some shoddy Jiffy Lube-like outfit. This was done under lab conditions by professional guys who do this for a living.
Some people have asked, does it matter? I would say most of the time, and particularly in the US where short OCIs are the norm, it doesn't. However if you are a lover of European long drain intervals, it matters a lot. I can't remember the details of that test now but I do recall is that the original Calcium based oil was shot to bits after 216 hours of engine-on time; the KV100 was way up, TBN was totally gone and TAN was up too. When the second oil was added and mixed with the heel of the original oil, the first thing that happened was an instantaneous drop in the second oil's TBN, as the new oil's detergent neutralised all the acidic gunk in the old oil. If this happened in real life, you would be starting your second long drain OCI on an oil that just wouldn't be up to the task!
Good story!
I once had to do an industry standard Sequence VG engine test which uses an old Ford 4.6L V8. This test was a bit of an oddball in that a full Calcium oil was run for the first half of the test, drained, replaced with an all Magnesium oil, and then run again.
It came as something of a surprise when the ICP metal analysis of the second oil, once added to the engine, contained around about 20% Calcium, suggesting that only 80% of the original oil had drained from the engine! Remember this wasn't an oil change carried out by some shoddy Jiffy Lube-like outfit. This was done under lab conditions by professional guys who do this for a living.
Some people have asked, does it matter? I would say most of the time, and particularly in the US where short OCIs are the norm, it doesn't. However if you are a lover of European long drain intervals, it matters a lot. I can't remember the details of that test now but I do recall is that the original Calcium based oil was shot to bits after 216 hours of engine-on time; the KV100 was way up, TBN was totally gone and TAN was up too. When the second oil was added and mixed with the heel of the original oil, the first thing that happened was an instantaneous drop in the second oil's TBN, as the new oil's detergent neutralised all the acidic gunk in the old oil. If this happened in real life, you would be starting your second long drain OCI on an oil that just wouldn't be up to the task!
Good story!
Worry about the stuff in life you can change!
I find it funny that so many people say don't worry about discussing an oil related topic on a forum specifically dedicated for discussion of oil related topics.
Originally Posted By: cadfaeltex
I find it funny that so many people say don't worry about discussing an oil related topic on a forum specifically dedicated for discussion of oil related topics.
I was thinking the same thing
I find it funny that so many people say don't worry about discussing an oil related topic on a forum specifically dedicated for discussion of oil related topics.
I was thinking the same thing
Originally Posted By: SonofJoe
Originally Posted By: JohnnyJohnson
Worry about the stuff in life you can change!
Yes, but you can change your car's oil, so QED, we are obliged to worry about it!
LOL and you can change the amount that stays in the engine. Life is too short bud!
Originally Posted By: JohnnyJohnson
Worry about the stuff in life you can change!
Yes, but you can change your car's oil, so QED, we are obliged to worry about it!
LOL and you can change the amount that stays in the engine. Life is too short bud!
My 2L turbo Gen Coupe.
Total 5.9L (6.23 US qt, 5.19 Imp qt) When replacing a short engine or a block assembly
Oil pan 5.0L (5.28 US qt, 4.41 Imp qt)
Drain and refill 5.3L (5.60 US qt, 4.66 Imp qt) Including oil filter
The 3,8L Gen Coupe engine
Total 6.0L (6.34 US qt, 5.28 Imp qt)When replacing a short engine or a block assembly
Oil pan 5.5L (5.81 US qt, 4.84 Imp qt)
Drain and refill 5.2L (5.49 US qt, 4.58 Imp qt) Including oil filter
My Accent 1.6L
Total 3.8L (4.01 US qt, 3.34 Imp qt)When replacing a short engine or a block assembly
Oil pan 3.0L (3.17 US qt, 2.63 Imp qt)
Drain and refill 3.3L (3.48 US qt, 2.90 Imp qt) Including oil filter
Total 5.9L (6.23 US qt, 5.19 Imp qt) When replacing a short engine or a block assembly
Oil pan 5.0L (5.28 US qt, 4.41 Imp qt)
Drain and refill 5.3L (5.60 US qt, 4.66 Imp qt) Including oil filter
The 3,8L Gen Coupe engine
Total 6.0L (6.34 US qt, 5.28 Imp qt)When replacing a short engine or a block assembly
Oil pan 5.5L (5.81 US qt, 4.84 Imp qt)
Drain and refill 5.2L (5.49 US qt, 4.58 Imp qt) Including oil filter
My Accent 1.6L
Total 3.8L (4.01 US qt, 3.34 Imp qt)When replacing a short engine or a block assembly
Oil pan 3.0L (3.17 US qt, 2.63 Imp qt)
Drain and refill 3.3L (3.48 US qt, 2.90 Imp qt) Including oil filter
Originally Posted By: cadfaeltex
I find it funny that so many people say don't worry about discussing an oil related topic on a forum specifically dedicated for discussion of oil related topics.
I think some here obsessively worry (Did I hurt my car by adding 0.25 qt. too much?? Should I immediately drain it out??).
And I think some here simply discuss (Whats the better value, Synthetics or conventionals)
I find it funny that so many people say don't worry about discussing an oil related topic on a forum specifically dedicated for discussion of oil related topics.
I think some here obsessively worry (Did I hurt my car by adding 0.25 qt. too much?? Should I immediately drain it out??).
And I think some here simply discuss (Whats the better value, Synthetics or conventionals)
My Saab has a turbocharger and an oil cooler. I'm guessing at least a quart resides in those areas and the associated plumbing.
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