Excellent Chart, TY for posting.
Excellent Chart, TY for posting.
Usually zero degrees F. with conventional. Being synthetic, you can go to -10. That is what my manual states for my vehicle.How cold would be considered safe for a 10w-30 in an ohc engine? My cam in block jeep says down to 0f but it's antiquated. Got gallons of synthetic I'd like to use up in the fjcruiser.
More concerned about the oil fed timing chain tensionerIf it is the correct spec for that temperature range as specified in the owners manual then I wouldn’t worry about it. If you have ever disassembled an engine you know that a film of motor oil stays on the parts for a long time, more than sufficient for start up while the engine builds pressure in a few moments.
In Apple Valley - I wouldn’t worry. Do you get up into the mountains? Does the truck see below zero temps? If the answer to that last question was “no” then run the 10W30.More concerned about the oil fed timing chain tensioner
For your edification, poor a couple oz sample in a vial or pickle jar and place it your home freezer chest overnight . I find it (QS FS) pours and swishes easily. Should be a piece of cake lubing the CCT.More concerned about the oil fed timing chain tensioner
My Hawaiian mother in law has a bone to pick with you! According to her, going out when there is snow on the ground causes instant death.17F I'd hate to tell ya ain't cold
I find it interesting that as one goes down the chart, the oil is thinner at colder temps.Something that gets forgotten is those “5” increments actually mean something (0w, 5w, 10w). They mean they test ok in 5C increments. That’s a 9F increment.
How cold would be considered safe for a 10w-30 in an ohc engine? My cam in block jeep says down to 0f but it's antiquated. Got gallons of synthetic I'd like to use up in the fjcruiser.
I find it interesting that as one goes down the chart, the oil is thinner at colder temps.
Anyhow. I had 10W30 in my Tundra one summer, come fall I could hear the cranking difference. Changed it. Didn't want to deal with it, but, we can occasionally see -10F in wintertime. Maybe that Tundra had a bad battery (most likely did--but I used it for several years after that, so just how bad was it?). Strangely the 10W40 in my 4 wheeler doesn't impact cranking at all in cold temps, then again I use an over sized battery.
I did have 30 in a lawnmower once, and learned real quick that I could not pull start that when temps got 50F or whatever (waited too long for the last mow). Multi-viscosity only after that!
My guess, you're fine, it doesn't get that cold there, and when it does, as long as you have a good battery, no issue. If your battery is getting older, you may notice it quicker. Me I'd save it for summer use and find something for winter, but I'm in a different clime so what I do isn't quite relevant.
It makes sense, I just found it odd, that's all. I mean, they could have picked a viscosity and then held that number as the temps go down. But instead, as temp goes down, viscosity goes down too. Which, as you indicate, is good as the battery's ability to provide amps goes down too.The oil has to be thinner as the battery becomes weaker, if you want to get th engine started anyway...
I think the KV100 is an easy obtainable reference for lab work way back 100 years ago; and engine ran open to atm radiator with water at op temp.It makes sense, I just found it odd, that's all. I mean, they could have picked a viscosity and then held that number as the temps go down. But instead, as temp goes down, viscosity goes down too. Which, as you indicate, is good as the battery's ability to provide amps goes down too.
Now that I think about it, I wonder if the curve for viscosity drop matches the typical curve of battery amp drop... that'd only make sense.