Chain lube for motorcycles always works for me in these type applications. Honda has one that is very fluid when sprayed and then the carrier flashes, leaving a nice, clean, wax-like lube. Doesn't pick-up or hold dirt/grime either.
Hood latch grease
- Thread starter JHZR2
- Start date
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
Just need the better WD40
Spray Gel Lubricant for Tools | WD-40 Spray Gel Lube | WD-40
The WD-40 Specialist Spray and Stay Gel Lubricant is a thick gel lube that provides long lasting lubrication for tools, gears, chains, rollers and more without the mess. The thick gel formula of this lubricant gel spray prevents rust for up to a year.
The best product for all car latches, doors, and misc etc. Wurth HHS Plus.
It sprays as a thin liquid that creeps and the VOCs burn off and then turns to a thick viscous grease that stays put. It’s totally worth the cost and goes a long way. And great for inside the house items too.
CTopher
It sprays as a thin liquid that creeps and the VOCs burn off and then turns to a thick viscous grease that stays put. It’s totally worth the cost and goes a long way. And great for inside the house items too.
CTopher
JHZR2
Staff member
I am very familiar with the product. The issue with any grease product, is that while the staying and coating power is great, it also attracts and collects dirt, and ultimately firms up enough that it can affect the operation of some latches.
That’s what happened on my 1991 Mercedes which brought up this question. But even my late model cars have pretty funky looking dirty grease.
I did use the graphite. The issue I seem to see from graphite is that the contact surface seems to get wiped clean of the graphite, so after one pass I’m not sure if it’s really there at the touch points that need it. Or maybe it’s just a microscopic layer.
You can already see the spot where the latch touched and displaced the graphite. Maybe it’s still good enough. I don’t really know or know how to tell.
The round spot is a “control” to see how it holds up under there.
In my estimation, the internal mechanism of the latch is what requires lubrication, the pivot points, etc.
The part “wiped clean” by the hood catch doesn’t really matter. As long as it isn’t rusty, or pitted, the catch will slide along and engage the latch.
JHZR2
Staff member
True to a point. But I think coverage is valuable all the same. I have seen the contact points of otherwise painted latch components show corrosion and loss of material over long time periods. The touch point where the graphite gets removed to bright metal still exposes metal. This is where grease may be superior, dust and all. It does self heal, it does creep a bit, and may exist as a thin film on the surface better/easier/longer than other products.
My one ram needed a replacement latch after 445k miles of use and small vibrations. Not sure if lube would have fixed that though.
Sam_Julier
$50 Site Donor 2024
Super Lube Synthetic Oil 51004 with PTFE, High Viscosity
It is transparent, doesn’t cake or dry out like white lithium grease, and penetrates hinges easily.
It is transparent, doesn’t cake or dry out like white lithium grease, and penetrates hinges easily.
If it’s metal to metal I like lubriplate assembly grease. Similar to a white lithium. If there’s plastic involved in the latch or want to avoid a white lithium try a dry or silicone lube
JHZR2
Staff member
Yes #105 from lubriplate is a good grease!
JHZR2
Staff member
So here’s a good example. My 2015 Accord Hybrid. I’ve posted elsewhere how I’ve been disappointed at the corrosion prevention on this car’s fasteners even as compared to our odyssey made one year earlier.
I guess if I had grease slathered all over the base of it maybe there would be less rust there.
But look also at how the OE lube on there is worn away/ the wear on the latch!
For reference, compared to the odyssey with about 10k more miles. Bought within about a month of each other both brand new.
I guess if I had grease slathered all over the base of it maybe there would be less rust there.
But look also at how the OE lube on there is worn away/ the wear on the latch!
For reference, compared to the odyssey with about 10k more miles. Bought within about a month of each other both brand new.
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You are looking for corrosion protection. Those rust spots are not grease points.
Most will say something like fluid film but I don’t have any experience. I’ve used boeshield on the inside of my classic Carrera door skins and other points around hinges, underbody, headlight buckets, etc that are none contact points. It dries to a semi waxy/oily feel and can be wiped clean. Also for points like that before rust starts, you might try cosmoline but you’ll see a amber color from the coating, also make it with a black tint. Benefits of cosmoline is you can fully remove it leaving original paint, zinc plating, etc.
CTopher
Most will say something like fluid film but I don’t have any experience. I’ve used boeshield on the inside of my classic Carrera door skins and other points around hinges, underbody, headlight buckets, etc that are none contact points. It dries to a semi waxy/oily feel and can be wiped clean. Also for points like that before rust starts, you might try cosmoline but you’ll see a amber color from the coating, also make it with a black tint. Benefits of cosmoline is you can fully remove it leaving original paint, zinc plating, etc.
CTopher
- Joined
- Jul 15, 2023
- Messages
- 981
I’ve used Amsoil MP and it seems to work.
JHZR2
Staff member
No, I’m looking for lubrication.
The accord hinge was a point of interest given its age and the presence of corrosion.
Corrosion comes into play because of some of the products discussed above. Slathering with grease, which picks up dirt and dust, should limit corrosion, but grabs dust, compared to the dry graphite.
I’m acutely aware of some of the products you mention.
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2021
- Messages
- 746
First, are you sure it's the latch, not the cable?
Assuming it's the latch, it seems none of WD-40, chain lube, PTFE, and spray grease (plain or lithium) will serve the purpose.
I'm calling in the cavalry. Since this is a case of cold, metal on metal friction under pressure (see the aforementioned Odyssey catch bar) it seems to align pretty well with the testing specs advocated by 540Rat. QSUP 5W-30 ought to do the trick.
JHZR2
Staff member
This started because my 1991 mb wasn’t latching on one side. It was because of old impacted grease. Once clean, it works perfectly.First, are you sure it's the latch, not the cable?
Assuming it's the latch, it seems none of WD-40, chain lube, PTFE, and spray grease (plain or lithium) will serve the purpose.
I'm calling in the cavalry. Since this is a case of cold, metal on metal friction under pressure (see the aforementioned Odyssey catch bar) it seems to align pretty well with the testing specs advocated by 540Rat. QSUP 5W-30 ought to do the trick.
I’ve been looking at the other latches as a result since…
Oil too will catch dirt and dust. Therein lies the problem. The corrosion on my accord latch would be a point for a grease or oil, and if it’s dirty, who cares? But the actual mechanism…?
Tri-Flow.