A battery that old may only survive 1 cold or deep discharge cycle before dying. A new battery wont't like this any better but will take more abuse, perhaps 3/4 of these before ghosting on you. Your battery may still work but has less capacity now compared with new, say 500 amps new and 300 now. If you only need 250 to start still seems sufficent but there is less reserve.
Honda OEM battery still good after 7 years
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My BMW battery will be 8 yrs old in May and considering the electrical load a BMW puts on a battery that's outstanding. The car has the Harmon Kardon 12-speaker sound system which has a huge current draw at high volume so I'm even more amazed. The battery was load tested at 660 CA in March. Must be a very high quality battery BMW buy.
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Originally Posted By: sprintman
My BMW battery will be 8 yrs old in May and considering the electrical load a BMW puts on a battery that's outstanding. The car has the Harmon Kardon 12-speaker sound system which has a huge current draw at high volume so I'm even more amazed. The battery was load tested at 660 CA in March. Must be a very high quality battery BMW buy.
It's a BMW.
///M
E39 M5 is probably my favourite BMW sedan....
My BMW battery will be 8 yrs old in May and considering the electrical load a BMW puts on a battery that's outstanding. The car has the Harmon Kardon 12-speaker sound system which has a huge current draw at high volume so I'm even more amazed. The battery was load tested at 660 CA in March. Must be a very high quality battery BMW buy.
It's a BMW.
///M
E39 M5 is probably my favourite BMW sedan....
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Mmmm. I definitely would not mind driving that. That color is the best, too.
Any drawbacks for high CCA batteries??
Originally Posted By: Liquid_Turbo
Any drawbacks for high CCA batteries??
yes.much less tolerant of deep cycling.
i tend to go for cca rating speced by mfr and best reserve cap i can get.if the tray can take a larger battery i get it.
btw the battery with the highest rc will also be the heaviest.
Any drawbacks for high CCA batteries??
yes.much less tolerant of deep cycling.
i tend to go for cca rating speced by mfr and best reserve cap i can get.if the tray can take a larger battery i get it.
btw the battery with the highest rc will also be the heaviest.
The battery in my 2006 Saab 93 still tests OK for CCA but the reserve capacity seems to be about half what it should be.
Originally Posted By: brianl703
The battery in my 2006 Saab 93 still tests OK for CCA but the reserve capacity seems to be about half what it should be.
How have you measured the reserve capacity?
The battery in my 2006 Saab 93 still tests OK for CCA but the reserve capacity seems to be about half what it should be.
How have you measured the reserve capacity?
JHZR2
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Originally Posted By: Curtis Newton
The OEM used to be Panasonic, not sure if it is still today ... the Panasonic battery in my 94 Acura Integra was still good at the 7 1/2 year mark, I just replaced it because I was nervous it was going to fail.
Panasonic car batteries are great. We kept the one in our toyota for 10 years.
My mother's 97 plymouth breeze still has its original battery too!
The biggest key is NO load without the engine on (no radio, dome light, lights, etc.), and no parasitic loads. The plymouth has manual door locks and windows! Its GREAT - nothing better for a rugged, reliable car.
The OEM used to be Panasonic, not sure if it is still today ... the Panasonic battery in my 94 Acura Integra was still good at the 7 1/2 year mark, I just replaced it because I was nervous it was going to fail.
Panasonic car batteries are great. We kept the one in our toyota for 10 years.
My mother's 97 plymouth breeze still has its original battery too!
The biggest key is NO load without the engine on (no radio, dome light, lights, etc.), and no parasitic loads. The plymouth has manual door locks and windows! Its GREAT - nothing better for a rugged, reliable car.
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Originally Posted By: Donald
How have you measured the reserve capacity?
I timed how long it took for the low battery warning on my power inverter to come on while powering my Dell Optiplex GX260. It only lasted 3.5 hours (8-amp load from the inverter). The battery says it is a 70 amp hour battery. (European batteries, for whatever reason, have amp-hour ratings on them).
My 85 amp hour deep-cycle battery can run that computer for about 10 hours.
So...85-amp hour battery runs it for 10 hours, 70 amp-hour battery is done after 3.5 hours...seems like the 70 amp-hour battery isn't 70 amp hours anymore.
Also, I noticed that the voltage drops quicker when I'm listening to the stereo without the engine running than it did when the car was new (I have a Scangauge which has a voltmeter in it).
How have you measured the reserve capacity?
I timed how long it took for the low battery warning on my power inverter to come on while powering my Dell Optiplex GX260. It only lasted 3.5 hours (8-amp load from the inverter). The battery says it is a 70 amp hour battery. (European batteries, for whatever reason, have amp-hour ratings on them).
My 85 amp hour deep-cycle battery can run that computer for about 10 hours.
So...85-amp hour battery runs it for 10 hours, 70 amp-hour battery is done after 3.5 hours...seems like the 70 amp-hour battery isn't 70 amp hours anymore.
Also, I noticed that the voltage drops quicker when I'm listening to the stereo without the engine running than it did when the car was new (I have a Scangauge which has a voltmeter in it).
This is a great battery thread. I had the cr*p scared out of me last night. I know better, and still did something pretty stupid. My 89 Civic's battery is now at least 5 years old, and so far has been working like a $5 wh*re. But for some reason, I've just had a feeling I should get a new battery. Well, last night, I needed a gallon of milk, so in 0F temps I jump into my car with a light jacket, no gloves, etc., to go to the local 7-11 about a mile away. When I'm on the way home, I kill the engine at a stop sign, and it won't start at all. Just getting the clickety-click sound of a super low battery. It won't even turn the engine over. I practically freeze to death before I can get someone to give me a jump.
When I get home, I turn off the engine, and it restarts fine. I'm thinking the battery is probably toast and needs replacement? What do you guys think? Where can I get a battery on Xmas morning? I'm afraid to go anywhere now. Will places like AA or AZ do the install, I don't want to screw around in this horrid weather? HELP?
When I get home, I turn off the engine, and it restarts fine. I'm thinking the battery is probably toast and needs replacement? What do you guys think? Where can I get a battery on Xmas morning? I'm afraid to go anywhere now. Will places like AA or AZ do the install, I don't want to screw around in this horrid weather? HELP?
I would clean the clamps & cables as a first step.
P.B. said:
"If my battery lasts 6 yrs, I always change it in the 7th year...
on a nice sunny day at my leisure; instead of in the middle of the next winter in a parking lot, a long way from home...at night."
Thanks for backing up my story...
"If my battery lasts 6 yrs, I always change it in the 7th year...
on a nice sunny day at my leisure; instead of in the middle of the next winter in a parking lot, a long way from home...at night."
Thanks for backing up my story...
I just checked my Honda battery and it is made by Johnson Control. I guess I'll be looking for a similar one in about a year or so. This thing is a champ. I only wish I know how to install an additional battery so that I have back up.
One question for the battery gurus. If the battery fail to start the car, will be be able to continue keep the car running once the car jumped started by another source? I figure I can keep a battery self-jumper in the car for emergency and keep the current battery in there until it fail to start. I think it would be a great test since I bought this car with 0 mile on it to fully test how well made Johnson Control battery is.
Anyone has bad experience with JC?
One question for the battery gurus. If the battery fail to start the car, will be be able to continue keep the car running once the car jumped started by another source? I figure I can keep a battery self-jumper in the car for emergency and keep the current battery in there until it fail to start. I think it would be a great test since I bought this car with 0 mile on it to fully test how well made Johnson Control battery is.
Anyone has bad experience with JC?
Quote:
If the battery fail to start the car, will be be able to continue keep the car running once the car jumped started by another source?
When the factory battery in my 1995 Ford Contour died, I push-started the car. (The battery wasn't totally dead). I noticed that when the car idled, it felt like it was going to stall out. So I took it for a drive on the interstate to charge the battery. It started to rain. I turned on the headlights. The engine missed as soon as I did.
I went straight to Wards to get a new battery. (They didn't have the right battery so they put a 58R battery in; had I known what I know now I'd have told them to go get a battery for a BMW, Audi, VW, etc and put that in).
So, yes, a car can run after jump or push starting with a failing battery, but not very well. The battery is critical to proper operation of the electrical system.
If the battery fail to start the car, will be be able to continue keep the car running once the car jumped started by another source?
When the factory battery in my 1995 Ford Contour died, I push-started the car. (The battery wasn't totally dead). I noticed that when the car idled, it felt like it was going to stall out. So I took it for a drive on the interstate to charge the battery. It started to rain. I turned on the headlights. The engine missed as soon as I did.
I went straight to Wards to get a new battery. (They didn't have the right battery so they put a 58R battery in; had I known what I know now I'd have told them to go get a battery for a BMW, Audi, VW, etc and put that in).
So, yes, a car can run after jump or push starting with a failing battery, but not very well. The battery is critical to proper operation of the electrical system.
JC is very good in my experience.
You can get them in the DC area from any of the following:
Autozone (Duralast)
Advance Auto (Autocraft)
Costco (Kirkland Signature)
I much prefer JC over Exide.
You can get them in the DC area from any of the following:
Autozone (Duralast)
Advance Auto (Autocraft)
Costco (Kirkland Signature)
I much prefer JC over Exide.
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