Do you have a recommendation for the rear?
Ok here we go. I am sure i will get some negative feedback on this but this is my opinion.
Talking about the Jetta - There is no good point to raise the front both sides or rear both sides at the same time, that is particularly true in the rear. You might get away with it in the front on the subframe but i would not do it.
There are 8 good lifting spots, they have been mentioned in one of the treads already, they are the 4 factory jack points on the rocker pinch welds (or sills for our European friends) and the pivot points where the rear "trailing arms" mount for the rear and the subframe in the area of the bolts on each side in the front. I do not like using a floor jack on the pitch welds because you can tend to put sideways forces on them and bend them, if i used those i would use one of the pucks or a block of wood with a slot cut into it.
When i rotate tires i use the spare (i have a full size steelie with a full size tire on it.) I lossen all the lug nuts slightly on the ground, i then use a floor jack (a long reach blue Daytona) on the subframe near the rear most bolt (with a block of wood) on the left front to barely raise the LF off the ground , i remove the wheel and put it under the pinch weld and quickly place the spare on the car, tighten 2 lugs (i work entirely outside the car, with no part of me under it) pull the wheel out from under the pinch weld and lower the car. take the wheel to the rear, and repeat the procedure placing the formally LF on the LR. (i use a block of wood on the trailing arm mounts to raise the rear.) I then take the formally LR tire to the RF and repeat the drill, move the formally RF to the RR and finally the formally RR to the LF and replace the spare in the trunk. I never have more than one wheel off the ground and I never have any part of my anatomy under the car. it goes without saying i hope that i do this on level ground. also that when mounting i torque the wheels to half torque in a star pattern before lowering and then to final torque on the ground, again in a star pattern. I also endeavor to just raise the car enough to remove the tire and place the new one at each point.
Instead of putting a wheel under the pinch weld you could put the jack stand there, that'll require you getting it a little higher, which makes it a little harder..
If i were to do a brake job on the rear like you are contemplating i would do essentially the same thing and do one side at a time, id definitely place a jack stand under the pinch weld and probably a tire under the suspension and i would still stay out from under it. I don't think it is necessary or even desirable to to loosen bleeder to do the brake job, but if you do you're going to need to evenly raise it, which i would do one side at a time.
Now folks are going to say always a jack and a stand and i agree you need a safety, but I've seen cars fall of racks and jacks and jack stands and i'm comfortable doing it this way. The key is NEVER UNDER IT, NO PART OF YOU.
Anyway, that is my way, use it at your own risk. Others will have their way, Ultimately you will have your way.
Also i may have mentioned this: VCDS - you will get impeccable help on their forum if you need it, but only with a genuine interface. You can use it on your phone, but full functionality may require a laptop.