Generac portable generator oil?

[JimPghPA]

Here on BITOG there is a member who goes by Cujet. He lives in Florida and has written that Mobil 15W-50 keeps his air cooled engines running well in the Florida heat when his neighbors using other oils have their engines blow up.

For Florida use Mobil 15W-50 if you can find it. If you can not find it use Mobil V-twin 20W-50 motorcycle oil.

And change your oil every 50 hours of use, and check that it is full EVERY time you add gasoline.

 

[JimPghPA]

Also, Cujet wrote that it is very important that your air cooled engine has a good supply of air that is not recycled back into the cooling input of the engine. Never run an engine close to any building or wall because that cuts down on the fresh air supply.

 

[NormanBuntz]

Originally Posted By: bubbatime

Just don't make the mistake of using a conventional oil.


Conventional SAE30, SAE40, 15W40, and 20W50 are fine, and likely better, then run of the mill synthetic 5W30 in this case.

Its the conventional 5W30 or conventional 10W30 that WILL consume like crazy in this climate. [/quote

That's not what my Generac manual says.

 

[SwampDweller]

After Katrina, people were hauling generators back home with them. A few weeks later, when the first Home Depot and other stores started opening, LARGE signs went up across the front of the building"NO RETURNS ON GENERATORS". There were lines a mile long with people wanting their money back(lots of bad words). They had purchased the gen. out of state when evacuated.

People were running these things 24 hrs a day without changing the oil. After a few days, they would [censored] out. First sign was leaking badly, and oil smelled like fuel. Evidently these small gasoline engines dilute the fuel when run continuously and hard, not to mention the heat from running in semi enclosed areas(out of the weather)

Natural gas generators seem to be much easier on oil(cleaner burning) and a cooling fan.

Bottom line.......48 hours with 15/40 HDEO. These small engines only hold a quart or so of oil. Keep a gallon of Rotella 15/40 and some fuel around for outages. Thats 8 days of running on the oil.

 

[NormanBuntz]

To clarify my points made earlier, my Generac 16kw runs on demand on propane. The longest it has ever run continuously is about 60 hours. Yes, it used some oil, about 1/2 quart of 5w-30 synthetic. Capacity is 2 quarts.

I think the best answer is to follow your owners manual and regularly check the oil level during long periods of operation. If the gasoline powered ones eat oil faster as a rule, common sense says to check it more often.

I guess I'm lucky mine is propane. Still I wish I had paid an extra $1,500 for a Kohler generator.

 

[FastLane]

I've been running Mobil 1 10W30 in my 5500 Briggs generator. 32C outside, ran all day, didn't use and oil.

People don't change the oil in OPE and never check the oil. That's what kills them. The first oil change should be done early then change your oil with a quality synthetic oil. It will last a long time. It doesn't take long to get 50 hours on a generator when you have no power.

 

[bubbatime]

Originally Posted By: NormanBuntz
That's not what my Generac manual says.


Not sure what model Generac you have, but I just pulled this (photo below) off a Generac manual. They list SAE30 above 32F, 10W30 for under 40 degrees F, and synthetic 5W30 for use only under 10 degrees F. Remember, the manual only takes into account that the engine is properly serviced. Honestly, I would hazard a guess that less than 10% of the public take the time to check the oil, or change the oil, at the manufacturer specified time (usually 50-100 hours). 30 weight is fine, for best case scenario maintenance, which we know is NOT happening in Texas right now, or in Florida, in a few days. Hence the reason why I, a small engine guy, and others, are contantly recommending 15W40, SAE40, or 20W50 for SUMMER USE DURING EXTENDED POWER OUTAGES in the south.

0

 

[Kamele0N]

I find it interesting in theme about honda generator oil......that many users advice NOT to use any additives in oil....

In this FUBAR scenario wich include Irma hurricane....I would use MoS2 just for any case....you never know

 

[andyd]

I spent a fair amount of time reviving the 35 yr old 5KW genset today. The Ops manual said to use 30 down to 32F and 5w30 below. Not to use 10w40. Engine is a Tecumseh HM100 10hp. I had it running long enough to know it is making electricity. A few more things to check and I'm gonna roll the dice on a 15$ carb clone. Yah, I'm getting a new carb. It runs rich no matter how I set the mixture.

 

[Al]

Originally Posted By: lawnman
Portable unit. 8000 watts.

Did you need that much capacity. I know a number of folks (two related to me) that did not have any idea of the fuel they suck.
Your machine on half load requires 7.5 gallons every 11 hours..and again that's half load.

 

[Cujet]

Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
Here on BITOG there is a member who goes by Cujet. He lives in Florida and has written that Mobil 15W-50 keeps his air cooled engines running well in the Florida heat


Another Hurricane is coming! As mentioned above, air cooled engines can achieve high oil temps in severe duty use. Using a 5000w generator, located against your garage, to heat water (4500w heating element) , is an example of "torture" as far as I am concerned. Yet, homeowners do it all the time after a hurricane.

I learned my lesson after destroying 2 Honda powered water pumps, de-watering my land, prior to filling the property. I used the conventional recommended oil of the proper viscosity. What I never considered was the 24/7 hot weather, no wind operation would tax the oil rather quickly, leading to destruction of the connecting rod. After the second pump failed, (the first one was covered by warranty, as I used the recommended oil) I chose Kawasaki as my pump of choice and went to 15W-50 M1 oil. That pump still runs 15 years later.

I measured oil temps over 270 degrees on my OPE!

Coupled with fuel dilution, as mentioned above, and a great many post-hurricane homeowners needlessly destroyed their gen engines due to oil choice.

Remember, post hurricane generator operations are NOT LIKE intermittent mild load construction site operations. The post hurricane generator can be at full load for months on end, with water heaters, air-conditioners, well pumps and stove/oven heating elements each occupying time, as needed on the genset.

I use M1, 15W-50 in my generators. It's not too thick, regardless of what people think. It is rated like a 15 viscosity oil at cold start up temps and has a very robust HTHS of 4.5 @ 150c.

 

[JimPghPA]

The Brigs oil chart posted by bubbatime shows it like it is. For hot temperatures 15W-50 is the oil that protects air cooled engines properly.

There use to be some problems with the thicker weight oils many years ago, and because of that there were recommendations to not use those thicker oils. Now days that no longer holds true, and engine manufacturers are finally realizing and posting information to use the thicker oils in hot ambient conditions.

 

[Cujet]

Something else to keep in mind, the HTHS rating is worth reviewing when choosing an oil for air cooled engines operated in hot environments.

HTHS, being the viscosity of the oil at 150 deg C, (about 300F) . (for today's discussion, higher is better)

Mobil 1, 10W-30 synthetic oil HTHS = 3.0
Mobil 1, 5W-40 Turbo diesel truck HTHS = 3.7
Mobil 1, 5W-20 synthetic oil HTHS = 2.7
Mobil 1, 15W-50 synthetic oil HTHS = 4.5 (a good number, but not exceptionally high like some race oils)

Conventional 5W-30 oil HTHS = 2.7 (now you can see why this might not be a good choice after it shears and dilutes a bit)

Conventional straight 30W oil often has an HTHS of 3.7

So you can see why manufacturers of air cooled engines still recommend straight 30, and why straight 30 has, for years, provided adequate reliability. One should not assume that a synthetic 10W-30 will have the same viscosity as straight 30 under high temp conditions.

 

[JimPghPA]

Cujet, I hope that you are getting the H out of Jupiter until this next hurricane is over.

 

[leroyd92]

A lot of construction guys i know use 15w40 or 20w50 during the 117°-123° months in their $2k Honda generators.

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: Cujet
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
Here on BITOG there is a member who goes by Cujet. He lives in Florida and has written that Mobil 15W-50 keeps his air cooled engines running well in the Florida heat


Another Hurricane is coming! As mentioned above, air cooled engines can achieve high oil temps in severe duty use. Using a 5000w generator, located against your garage, to heat water (4500w heating element) , is an example of "torture" as far as I am concerned. Yet, homeowners do it all the time after a hurricane.

I learned my lesson after destroying 2 Honda powered water pumps, de-watering my land, prior to filling the property. I used the conventional recommended oil of the proper viscosity. What I never considered was the 24/7 hot weather, no wind operation would tax the oil rather quickly, leading to destruction of the connecting rod. After the second pump failed, (the first one was covered by warranty, as I used the recommended oil) I chose Kawasaki as my pump of choice and went to 15W-50 M1 oil. That pump still runs 15 years later.

I measured oil temps over 270 degrees on my OPE!

Coupled with fuel dilution, as mentioned above, and a great many post-hurricane homeowners needlessly destroyed their gen engines due to oil choice.

Remember, post hurricane generator operations are NOT LIKE intermittent mild load construction site operations. The post hurricane generator can be at full load for months on end, with water heaters, air-conditioners, well pumps and stove/oven heating elements each occupying time, as needed on the genset.

I use M1, 15W-50 in my generators. It's not too thick, regardless of what people think. It is rated like a 15 viscosity oil at cold start up temps and has a very robust HTHS of 4.5 @ 150c.



When you lost the Honda engines with your waterpump, what oil and oil wt was used, and what was the OCI? Also if I were in a long power outage I would use the gen sparingly and try not to run the gen past 70% of it's capacity.

 

[Astro_Guy]

Originally Posted By: Cujet
Something else to keep in mind, the HTHS rating is worth reviewing when choosing an oil for air cooled engines operated in hot environments.


So Cujet, how would you feel about Mobil 1 0w40 FS with HTHS of 3.6 for use with air cooled generators for those of us up north? The reasons I ask are 1) I have 4 quarts left over after ever change on the Volvo, and 2) my generator has been running for two hours now under perfectly clear skies. This happens a lot in my neighborhood due to aging infrastructure.

 

[Indy2door]

I would use whatever Generac requires.

 

[Al]

I will take the contrary view..as usual. I starting mowing lawn 50+ years ago. Dad had 1.5 acres using a small briggs reel. Never a problem with the [censored] oil in yester year..change oil? what is that? Thousands of hours of uglioness on that thing. Then bought a wheelhorse with a kohler powered engine. Ran it 100% capacity again many more thousands of hours. And I mowewed neighbors lawns during that time..agaion zero problems. He then bought another wheel horse-gave the old one to me.

Cant begin to tell you how many thousands of hours with many different engines I have mowed in my 71 years. Only problem was a bent crank bc I hit a pipe. I also had a generator for 40+ years. Used 30 non detergent for many years. I recently bought a cheap 1800 watt When. I have already run it many hours summer winter at 1500 watt load. All with dino 5W-30.

I think you guys are over reacting on the oil thing. I see no reason in the world to use a 50 wt which actually will create more heat in many cases. Its a free country though. And once it gets up to operating temp it thats where it willstay until you run out of gasoline. Do as you please.

 

[Linctex]

Originally Posted By: Cujet

Conventional straight 30W oil often has an HTHS of 3.7 .....
So you can see why manufacturers of air cooled engines still recommend straight 30, and why straight 30 has, for years, provided adequate reliability. One should not assume that a synthetic 10W-30 will have the same viscosity as straight 30 under high temp conditions.


EXCELLENT INFORMATION!