It is bled like any other vehicle. Does it need to be bled? That is to get air out. Is there any? Do you mean a brake fluid flush to put new fluid in? You should go ahead and replace the fluid at this point.
If the reservoir has not run dry (emptied out) then you probably don't need to bleed the ABS. If you do, there are various scan tools that can do it or the most basic (inexpensive, DIY) setup would be using an (ELM327 based) scan tool dongle and forscan app on a windows PC (tablet or laptop). More info about the latter can be found in Forscan's forum. After the normal bleed procedure, get it out somewhere slippery (wet/dewy grass or leaves, or gravel, etc) to get ABS to activate then see if you still have normal pedal firmness after.
Caliper bleeder screws, if rusty it helps to put some penetrant on ahead of time, let it seep in for an hour+, and use a tight fitting, six point socket. Once it's started turning free then you can use a proper flare nut wrench, better that than a common open end wrench that does not grip the bleeder nut on as many sides.
If the bleeder screw shears (or rounds) off, the bigger issue is then (for ease of doing it) you probably end up taking the caliper off, mount in a vice, trying to get the rest of the screw out, or if the whole caliper is rusted up, some people would just replace the whole thing.
Usually, old fluid with moisture in it, will not rust up your ABS module, before the brake lines themselves succumb to rust. However at some point Ford started using plastic coated line so if yours has that, it may buy you a few years at the more susceptible areas like at the wheels where the winter slush is kicked up while driving. In other words, inspect the brake lines from time to time. Better to replace a severely rusted line before failure, rather than finding it has failed while driving.