a second idea. my commute is at 6am, cold in winter, pull car out, warm up, drive 7 miles to work. sits in basement garage, goes home at night. i myself believe that is tough on oil, and one the engine!! more reason to change oil.
first oil change????
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Originally Posted By: Robertslowpoke
a second idea. my commute is at 6am, cold in winter, pull car out, warm up, drive 7 miles to work. sits in basement garage, goes home at night. i myself believe that is tough on oil, and one the engine!! more reason to change oil.
Seems you're looking for validation to change the oil on a frequent basis. Turbo, DI, Nissan, short trips.
How many miles will you put on it in a year? Maybe an oil change every 6 months will be about right for you. I wouldn't let it go 10k miles.
a second idea. my commute is at 6am, cold in winter, pull car out, warm up, drive 7 miles to work. sits in basement garage, goes home at night. i myself believe that is tough on oil, and one the engine!! more reason to change oil.
Seems you're looking for validation to change the oil on a frequent basis. Turbo, DI, Nissan, short trips.
How many miles will you put on it in a year? Maybe an oil change every 6 months will be about right for you. I wouldn't let it go 10k miles.
There is no question - it's an established fact - that factory fill oil has more metals and contaminants in it than subsequent fills will. What is NOT established as fact is how significant these elevated levels are. In theory, anything large enough to damage the engine should be removed by the oil filter.
Having said that, I prefer to err on the conservative side. I change oil in new vehicles at 1,000, 2,500, 5,000, then 10,000 miles, then change it at whatever interval the manual recommends after that. For my vehicles (all Toyota and Lexus) that means every 10,000 miles or one year, whichever happens first.
Note that even with these very frequent changes, analytically, wear metals and contaminants generally do not get down to completely normal levels until about 20 - 30,000 miles.
This is probably WAY overkill on my part, but it makes me comfortable, so that's what I do. I've followed this regimen on the past several new vehicles, and am currently following it on my 2017 Tundra and 2017 Lexus GS350. I get UOAs done on every oil change, again, a waste of money, but it is interesting to me, and it's kind of a hobby
Having said that, I prefer to err on the conservative side. I change oil in new vehicles at 1,000, 2,500, 5,000, then 10,000 miles, then change it at whatever interval the manual recommends after that. For my vehicles (all Toyota and Lexus) that means every 10,000 miles or one year, whichever happens first.
Note that even with these very frequent changes, analytically, wear metals and contaminants generally do not get down to completely normal levels until about 20 - 30,000 miles.
This is probably WAY overkill on my part, but it makes me comfortable, so that's what I do. I've followed this regimen on the past several new vehicles, and am currently following it on my 2017 Tundra and 2017 Lexus GS350. I get UOAs done on every oil change, again, a waste of money, but it is interesting to me, and it's kind of a hobby
thanks guys! hi Leo! i drive 8300 miles a year. maybe oil change, with best synthetic twice a year would be ok!
best regards,
bob
best regards,
bob
Originally Posted By: Robertslowpoke
thanks! i did in fact check the link that "nothing new" gave to the owners manual. i did NOT receive the car yet, did not see the owners manual. the one on line says oil every 10,000 miles. i am just now reading about the engine. sounds like twin turbo, water cooled intercooler, direct fuel injection. quite a sophisticated machine! i CANNOT believe it would be good to keep oil in for ten thousand miles with a new twin turbo. i am still reading, but i think turbos, which i have never owned, turn at ??200,000 rpm? wow. we have ultra centrifuges that spin a 40,000 and let me tell you, that is plenty.
The thing that worries me is that Nissan/Infiniti have ramped up the OCIs (to over double) without ramping up the specifications. Sure, there are more 0w-20 recommendations, which at least gets you a blend, but 5w-30 is still permissible. Now, whether or not that's a good idea for 10,000 mile intervals in a twin turbo is anyone's guess.
thanks! i did in fact check the link that "nothing new" gave to the owners manual. i did NOT receive the car yet, did not see the owners manual. the one on line says oil every 10,000 miles. i am just now reading about the engine. sounds like twin turbo, water cooled intercooler, direct fuel injection. quite a sophisticated machine! i CANNOT believe it would be good to keep oil in for ten thousand miles with a new twin turbo. i am still reading, but i think turbos, which i have never owned, turn at ??200,000 rpm? wow. we have ultra centrifuges that spin a 40,000 and let me tell you, that is plenty.
The thing that worries me is that Nissan/Infiniti have ramped up the OCIs (to over double) without ramping up the specifications. Sure, there are more 0w-20 recommendations, which at least gets you a blend, but 5w-30 is still permissible. Now, whether or not that's a good idea for 10,000 mile intervals in a twin turbo is anyone's guess.
Are Nissan/Infinity's OCI recommendations different based on the model. My 2016 Nissan Quest (QV35 engine) is every 5000mi per the manual. No oil life monitor either.
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I think they were 3750 miles before, severe service (as in for the years that included my G37), then moved onto something like yours. This year, 10,000 miles seems common. I saw that in the Q60 Red Sport I test drove, too.
Originally Posted By: Mr Nice
2000 miles max on original oil.
This.
And consult your owner's manual for what grade gasoline it needs. However, my Cruze (little 1.4L turbo) is rated for 87 but runs substantially better on just 89, and while I've not been able to nail down a gas mileage benefit to premium it does perform better yet on 91/93 particularly in warmer weather where spark knock happens more easily.
2000 miles max on original oil.
This.
And consult your owner's manual for what grade gasoline it needs. However, my Cruze (little 1.4L turbo) is rated for 87 but runs substantially better on just 89, and while I've not been able to nail down a gas mileage benefit to premium it does perform better yet on 91/93 particularly in warmer weather where spark knock happens more easily.
Originally Posted By: yeti
i don't understand why so many here agonize over such a petty decision.but, that's what makes bitog so entertaining.
On a daily basis, someone asks this same question, but just with a different vehicle in the subject....
i don't understand why so many here agonize over such a petty decision.but, that's what makes bitog so entertaining.
On a daily basis, someone asks this same question, but just with a different vehicle in the subject....
I like an early oil change, but I'm still undecided about an early filter change, as a filter works better and removes more as it ages. Before it saturates of course.
Without hijacking the thread, I would be happy to hear views on this. You know, new oil at 1000 miles, but keep the same filter in. And maybe again at 3000 miles or something.
Without hijacking the thread, I would be happy to hear views on this. You know, new oil at 1000 miles, but keep the same filter in. And maybe again at 3000 miles or something.
Originally Posted By: SR5
I like an early oil change, but I'm still undecided about an early filter change, as a filter works better and removes more as it ages. Before it saturates of course.
Without hijacking the thread, I would be happy to hear views on this. You know, new oil at 1000 miles, but keep the same filter in. And maybe again at 3000 miles or something.
When I dumped the FF early in my Wrangler, I left the filter. I was able to inspect it since it's cartridge filter, and there wasn't anything to be concerned about in it. They do filter better when they load up a bit.
I like an early oil change, but I'm still undecided about an early filter change, as a filter works better and removes more as it ages. Before it saturates of course.
Without hijacking the thread, I would be happy to hear views on this. You know, new oil at 1000 miles, but keep the same filter in. And maybe again at 3000 miles or something.
When I dumped the FF early in my Wrangler, I left the filter. I was able to inspect it since it's cartridge filter, and there wasn't anything to be concerned about in it. They do filter better when they load up a bit.
Originally Posted By: SR5
a filter works better and removes more as it ages
I would be interested in your source for this statement. Do you have a link to any articles, technical papers or any other documentation?
a filter works better and removes more as it ages
I would be interested in your source for this statement. Do you have a link to any articles, technical papers or any other documentation?
You new car, your choice.
In the absence of anything in writing from Renault, oh, I meant Nissan, I'd probably change the oil early, like around 3K.
After that, I'd do normal intervals. With as little as you drive, you'll likely be changing by time and not miles.
Do whatever you think will make you comfortable. I doubt that it'll matter much either way.
In the absence of anything in writing from Renault, oh, I meant Nissan, I'd probably change the oil early, like around 3K.
After that, I'd do normal intervals. With as little as you drive, you'll likely be changing by time and not miles.
Do whatever you think will make you comfortable. I doubt that it'll matter much either way.
Originally Posted By: SilverSnake
Originally Posted By: SR5
a filter works better and removes more as it ages
I would be interested in your source for this statement. Do you have a link to any articles, technical papers or any other documentation?
The theory behind this is that as the filter loads up, more and more of the biggest holes in the media are plugged up thus the filter catches smaller and smaller particles as it ages. At some point however, the filter becomes too plugged and the bypass valve opens and then you're not filtering at all. It's a nice theory, however I'll probably keep changing the filter with the oil because that's what makes me happy. I want to get that pint of dirty oil out of the engine. If that costs me the price of a filter I'm ok with that
Originally Posted By: SR5
a filter works better and removes more as it ages
I would be interested in your source for this statement. Do you have a link to any articles, technical papers or any other documentation?
The theory behind this is that as the filter loads up, more and more of the biggest holes in the media are plugged up thus the filter catches smaller and smaller particles as it ages. At some point however, the filter becomes too plugged and the bypass valve opens and then you're not filtering at all. It's a nice theory, however I'll probably keep changing the filter with the oil because that's what makes me happy. I want to get that pint of dirty oil out of the engine. If that costs me the price of a filter I'm ok with that
Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010
Originally Posted By: SilverSnake
Originally Posted By: SR5
a filter works better and removes more as it ages
I would be interested in your source for this statement. Do you have a link to any articles, technical papers or any other documentation?
The theory behind this is that as the filter loads up, more and more of the biggest holes in the media are plugged up thus the filter catches smaller and smaller particles as it ages. At some point however, the filter becomes too plugged and the bypass valve opens and then you're not filtering at all. It's a nice theory, however I'll probably keep changing the filter with the oil because that's what makes me happy. I want to get that pint of dirty oil out of the engine. If that costs me the price of a filter I'm ok with that
I understand why some might think this is the case. It goes against everything I have learned in numerous auto mechanics courses I have taken over the years and advice from many skilled techinicians I have known and trusted. I want to see some scientific evidence to back up the "theory." As I said in my previous post, how about some articles, technical papers, studies, or any other credible source.
Originally Posted By: SilverSnake
Originally Posted By: SR5
a filter works better and removes more as it ages
I would be interested in your source for this statement. Do you have a link to any articles, technical papers or any other documentation?
The theory behind this is that as the filter loads up, more and more of the biggest holes in the media are plugged up thus the filter catches smaller and smaller particles as it ages. At some point however, the filter becomes too plugged and the bypass valve opens and then you're not filtering at all. It's a nice theory, however I'll probably keep changing the filter with the oil because that's what makes me happy. I want to get that pint of dirty oil out of the engine. If that costs me the price of a filter I'm ok with that
I understand why some might think this is the case. It goes against everything I have learned in numerous auto mechanics courses I have taken over the years and advice from many skilled techinicians I have known and trusted. I want to see some scientific evidence to back up the "theory." As I said in my previous post, how about some articles, technical papers, studies, or any other credible source.
I think k&n might have some actual experimental data on this subject that they developed testing their air filters. It's the reason you oil the cotton filters, so stuff sticks and the filter better as they load up. I'll poke around and see what I can find when I get to an actual computer.
Originally Posted By: Greggy_D
Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010
I think k&n might have some actual experimental data on this subject that they developed testing their air filters.
We're talking about oil filters....not air filters.
And a filter is a filter. The same principles apply. Air is a fluid, oil is a fluid, filters filter. The only difference is the size of the mesh
Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010
I think k&n might have some actual experimental data on this subject that they developed testing their air filters.
We're talking about oil filters....not air filters.
And a filter is a filter. The same principles apply. Air is a fluid, oil is a fluid, filters filter. The only difference is the size of the mesh
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