Engine flush 61,000 miles result
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Originally Posted by R1jake
Originally Posted by demarpaint
Originally Posted by mattd
Engines don't require "flushing" when they're maintained properly. It's when they are neglected that it may be an option. There are other things I'd use other than that "motor flush".
I've seen first hand properly maintained engines in sound mechanical condition need an engine cleaning product or flush. I posted pictures a few years back of a 2000 Buick Century I was given by my father. He owned it since new and had religious oil changes done every 3K miles or less with name brand dino oils. The top of the engine was far from perfect with about 80K miles on the clock. FTR there were no problems with the lower intake manifold gaskets, the engine was mechanically sound. I'm not an Amsoil fan but the info posted from them about doing a flush can have merit, even in a well maintained engine. I'd opt for something along the lines of Rislone, Kreen or MMO, rather than a fast flush.
This can make one wonder, did dad do his own oil changes? Or was it possible he fell victim to one of those places that don't even change the oil? Very weird to hear of a vehicle serviced every 3,000 miles and not look good inside. Did he take a lot of short trips?
When the vehicle was serviced, Pop often watched the local shop or dealer do it. If he didn't watch he popped the hood and checked to make sure it was done, it's a NY thing. LOL Now that I think of it my brother might have serviced it a few times as well. The vehicle was driven under L.I. NY driving conditions which usually suck, with quite a bit of short trips. That brings me to another point, which I ruffled a few feathers with from time to time here. Blanket statements written here can get people in trouble. Had he followed the a good dino oil can go 5K miles and synthetic can go 10K miles would have spelled disaster for the car.
Originally Posted by demarpaint
Originally Posted by mattd
Engines don't require "flushing" when they're maintained properly. It's when they are neglected that it may be an option. There are other things I'd use other than that "motor flush".
I've seen first hand properly maintained engines in sound mechanical condition need an engine cleaning product or flush. I posted pictures a few years back of a 2000 Buick Century I was given by my father. He owned it since new and had religious oil changes done every 3K miles or less with name brand dino oils. The top of the engine was far from perfect with about 80K miles on the clock. FTR there were no problems with the lower intake manifold gaskets, the engine was mechanically sound. I'm not an Amsoil fan but the info posted from them about doing a flush can have merit, even in a well maintained engine. I'd opt for something along the lines of Rislone, Kreen or MMO, rather than a fast flush.
This can make one wonder, did dad do his own oil changes? Or was it possible he fell victim to one of those places that don't even change the oil? Very weird to hear of a vehicle serviced every 3,000 miles and not look good inside. Did he take a lot of short trips?
When the vehicle was serviced, Pop often watched the local shop or dealer do it. If he didn't watch he popped the hood and checked to make sure it was done, it's a NY thing. LOL Now that I think of it my brother might have serviced it a few times as well. The vehicle was driven under L.I. NY driving conditions which usually suck, with quite a bit of short trips. That brings me to another point, which I ruffled a few feathers with from time to time here. Blanket statements written here can get people in trouble. Had he followed the a good dino oil can go 5K miles and synthetic can go 10K miles would have spelled disaster for the car.
gathermewool
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Originally Posted by IMSA_Racing_Fan
Quote
The manual says blah blah
It's my car I paid for it I'll do what I feel best in Houston, Texas heat and traffic.
Forner ASE tech, motorcycle tech, engine assembler.
I'm sure you're a well-respected and knowledgeable dude; HOWEVER, I've seen people with your qualifications say some stupid things. The latest was when a tech said he didn't believe in torque specs. When I mentioned a step in the service manual that required a sealant be used and a torque spec, he said that it wasn't true that a sealant should be used, and that they just shut the fitting up.
I've had techs damage parts while working on my car.
I had one guy unscrew the turbo coolant reservoir in front of me to check the level AFTER I warned him it was a bad idea. He got a nice warm spray, but luckily wasn't injured.
//
I've also had techs give me some good advice, but not often.
Quote
The manual says blah blah
It's my car I paid for it I'll do what I feel best in Houston, Texas heat and traffic.
Forner ASE tech, motorcycle tech, engine assembler.
I'm sure you're a well-respected and knowledgeable dude; HOWEVER, I've seen people with your qualifications say some stupid things. The latest was when a tech said he didn't believe in torque specs. When I mentioned a step in the service manual that required a sealant be used and a torque spec, he said that it wasn't true that a sealant should be used, and that they just shut the fitting up.
I've had techs damage parts while working on my car.
I had one guy unscrew the turbo coolant reservoir in front of me to check the level AFTER I warned him it was a bad idea. He got a nice warm spray, but luckily wasn't injured.
//
I've also had techs give me some good advice, but not often.
No car manufacturer recommends a flush in any service interval guide I have seen.
As others have said no engine at 61K should need a flush if it was properly maintained.
As others have said no engine at 61K should need a flush if it was properly maintained.
Boy, I must be a retard for running M1 0w30, 0w40 and synthetic oils in a old Camry. Never had my valve cover off and never a sludge concern and never a check engine light.
I feel sorry the OP got hung out to dry in this thread.
OP: I enjoy BITOG; somedays you just gotta ignore the obvious false info.
I feel sorry the OP got hung out to dry in this thread.
OP: I enjoy BITOG; somedays you just gotta ignore the obvious false info.
Originally Posted by 53' Stude
Boy, I must be a retard for running M1 0w30, 0w40 and synthetic oils in a old Camry. Never had my valve cover off and never a sludge concern and never a check engine light.
I feel sorry the OP got hung out to dry in this thread.
OP: I enjoy BITOG; somedays you just gotta ignore the obvious false info.
Same here, I've never used a flush and I don't know how I managed to make it to all the miles I have on my vehicles, one being a "sludge monster" 1MZ-FE. I've even posted pictures here on Bitog when I change out the valve cover gaskets and not a trace of sludge anywhere.
Boy, I must be a retard for running M1 0w30, 0w40 and synthetic oils in a old Camry. Never had my valve cover off and never a sludge concern and never a check engine light.
I feel sorry the OP got hung out to dry in this thread.
OP: I enjoy BITOG; somedays you just gotta ignore the obvious false info.
Same here, I've never used a flush and I don't know how I managed to make it to all the miles I have on my vehicles, one being a "sludge monster" 1MZ-FE. I've even posted pictures here on Bitog when I change out the valve cover gaskets and not a trace of sludge anywhere.
Originally Posted by Donald
No car manufacturer recommends a flush in any service interval guide I have seen.
As others have said no engine at 61K should need a flush if it was properly maintained.
100% spot on. The thing is some people especially those that have owned cars that used old spec oils for a long time like myself fail to realize or accept the newer oils have some decent cleaning abilities. I have posted pictures many times that show pistons from underneath that had a fair amount of varnish and deposits actually coming clean to shiny metal just from running in that case Mobil 1 0w40 but other oils I believe do just as good a job.
If it can clean what is already there keeping it from happening in the first place should be no problem. I have flushed engines that had been neglected and had sticking lifters or lower compression from sticking rings with some success but these were not properly maintained engines in the first place.
I have a known sludge monster, a 2.3 turbo with a small sump but even that with short OCI on synthetic 0w40 stays clean and has good compression, it would not benefit from a flush.
No car manufacturer recommends a flush in any service interval guide I have seen.
As others have said no engine at 61K should need a flush if it was properly maintained.
100% spot on. The thing is some people especially those that have owned cars that used old spec oils for a long time like myself fail to realize or accept the newer oils have some decent cleaning abilities. I have posted pictures many times that show pistons from underneath that had a fair amount of varnish and deposits actually coming clean to shiny metal just from running in that case Mobil 1 0w40 but other oils I believe do just as good a job.
If it can clean what is already there keeping it from happening in the first place should be no problem. I have flushed engines that had been neglected and had sticking lifters or lower compression from sticking rings with some success but these were not properly maintained engines in the first place.
I have a known sludge monster, a 2.3 turbo with a small sump but even that with short OCI on synthetic 0w40 stays clean and has good compression, it would not benefit from a flush.
Originally Posted by IMSA_Racing_Fan
Quote
The manual says blah blah
It's my car I paid for it I'll do what I feel best in Houston, Texas heat and traffic.
He is right ^^^.
It his vehicle, so he gets to choose what is best for him. Others don't have to agree of course but all should respect his opinion.
Quote
The manual says blah blah
It's my car I paid for it I'll do what I feel best in Houston, Texas heat and traffic.
He is right ^^^.
It his vehicle, so he gets to choose what is best for him. Others don't have to agree of course but all should respect his opinion.
Originally Posted by IMSA_Racing_Fan
Quote
The manual says blah blah
It's my car I paid for it I'll do what I feel best in Houston, Texas heat and traffic.
He is right ^^^.
It his vehicle, so he gets to choose what is best for him. Others don't have to agree of course but all should respect his opinion.
Quote
The manual says blah blah
It's my car I paid for it I'll do what I feel best in Houston, Texas heat and traffic.
He is right ^^^.
It his vehicle, so he gets to choose what is best for him. Others don't have to agree of course but all should respect his opinion.
Originally Posted by joegreen
The op seemed to make a simple post stating what he does and why he does it. Then all of the sudden it's war? This is the part of bitog I don't like.
I agree. I have felt badly for some that were treated rudely in the past, simply for voicing an opinion that was not shared by the majority. Just because we may disagree does not mean we have to be disagreeable.
I like to defer to the person who actually paid for their vehicle, as far as opinions go.
The op seemed to make a simple post stating what he does and why he does it. Then all of the sudden it's war? This is the part of bitog I don't like.
I agree. I have felt badly for some that were treated rudely in the past, simply for voicing an opinion that was not shared by the majority. Just because we may disagree does not mean we have to be disagreeable.
I like to defer to the person who actually paid for their vehicle, as far as opinions go.
You've used the work "retard" twice (that I've seen today) in a condescending manner. Please don't. Using the term makes you come across as ignorant as the term is very offensive when used in such a manner.
Originally Posted by 53' Stude
Boy, I must be a retard for running M1 0w30, 0w40 and synthetic oils in a old Camry. Never had my valve cover off and never a sludge concern and never a check engine light.
I feel sorry the OP got hung out to dry in this thread.
OP: I enjoy BITOG; somedays you just gotta ignore the obvious false info.
Originally Posted by 53' Stude
Boy, I must be a retard for running M1 0w30, 0w40 and synthetic oils in a old Camry. Never had my valve cover off and never a sludge concern and never a check engine light.
I feel sorry the OP got hung out to dry in this thread.
OP: I enjoy BITOG; somedays you just gotta ignore the obvious false info.
Originally Posted by Amkeer
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2020/05/full-1424-44902-dsc_0024.jpg "[Linked Image]")
At 218,000 miles, 17 years old, 5/30 Mobil 1 run at 10,000 mile intervals. I would never consider a engine flush or oil treatment.
That picture is proof that if you run a quality oil and change it regularly, there should be no need for a flush.
The vast majority of flushing threads here involve a a recently purchased used car and discovering the sludge buildup afterwards.
At 218,000 miles, 17 years old, 5/30 Mobil 1 run at 10,000 mile intervals. I would never consider a engine flush or oil treatment.
That picture is proof that if you run a quality oil and change it regularly, there should be no need for a flush.
The vast majority of flushing threads here involve a a recently purchased used car and discovering the sludge buildup afterwards.
I was more caught up in why the OP used tune up grease on the drain plug.
My son drives a 2009 328i. The car has been run on BMW TPT 5W-30 or BMW TPT 0W-30 since new- with a minimum OCI of 15,000 miles/12 months; here's what it looked like at 108,000 miles:
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2020/05/full-176-44928-m54_no_sludge.jpg "[Linked Image]")
I'm having Amazon overnight him a case of Motor Medic- hopefully the motor won't self-destruct before then..
I'm having Amazon overnight him a case of Motor Medic- hopefully the motor won't self-destruct before then..
Hi there, kind of strange for my first post but came across this thread. I have been a member here since 2013 and never thought of posting. I have to say the rudeness and idiocy of a lot of the posters in this thread are unreal. I read a nice intro to a thread from IMSA _Racing_Fan. Then it turned into nothing but 4 pages of almost all garbage posts with zero content and a bunch of google images of motors.
I want to thank the OP for his input and results. I am looking to flush my motor and value your opinion over most of the others. I will be using either Motor Medic or Liqui Moly. I'm leaning toward the Motor Medic for the simple fact of your honest actual results. Thank you Sir!!
I want to thank the OP for his input and results. I am looking to flush my motor and value your opinion over most of the others. I will be using either Motor Medic or Liqui Moly. I'm leaning toward the Motor Medic for the simple fact of your honest actual results. Thank you Sir!!
Does the OP have before and after pictures of the valve train?
None that can be posted on BITOG. The OP was banned a few months back.
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