For an engine flush would you choose Liqui Moly or Lubegard engine flushes?

[grammatoncleric]

Looking for effective but "gentler" flush that can be accomplished while I drop off the car at an local mechanic to get the oil changed (in about 2k miles... currently oil has 1k... Doing a short OCI).

Idea is to drive to mechanic, book an appointment that's 30 min out, pour the flush while at a parking lot. Idle for 20 min and then give the keys to the mechanic so they can drive it into the bay and drain the oil / change filter.

 

[Sandstorm]

BG EPR > LM Engine Flush Plus > LM Pro Line Flush

BG EPR is superior to any other "gentle flush" product out there IMO.

 

[Lubener]

I wouldn't get hung up on flushing your engine. You can do more harm than good if debris blocks an oil passage.

 

[TiGeo]

I've use/have used the LM product in several vehicles many times. Certainly isn't going to hurt anything.

Dude....

What are trying to accomplish again? You have a whole lot of posts about additives and flushes....what vehicle/what is the situation again?

Edit. Oh. The Volvo. Good God man. Try them all.

 

[TiGeo]

BG EPR > LM Engine Flush Plus > LM Pro Line Flush

BG EPR is superior to any other "gentle flush" product out there IMO.

Based on what?

 

[hrv]

In the old days you would pour a quart of kerosene in it and run it for around 15 minutes and drain...It did work..

 

[Trav]

Unless there is some sort of issue eg sticking lifters/lash adjusters don't waste you time or money.

 

[atikovi]

Dump a half can of Kreen into the oil 1,000 miles before the change.

 

[Lapham3]

In the old days you would pour a quart of kerosene in it and run it for around 15 minutes and drain...It did work..

I did that with my dirty Falcon and future wife's Comet in the 60's-both done twice with no apparent harm done and it certainly did work with idling only for 10-15 minutes.

 

[Cujet]

Why not just move to synthetic oil and let the oil do some cleaning over time? Any of these flush products are not going to do much for you. If they were strong enough to dissolve varnish and carbon, they would also dissolve your silicone seals, paper gaskets and just about every other seal in the engine.

 

[atikovi]

Why not just move to synthetic oil and let the oil do some cleaning over time? Any of these flush products are not going to do much for you. If they were strong enough to dissolve varnish and carbon, they would also dissolve your silicone seals, paper gaskets and just about every other seal in the engine.

10-15 years ago there was much love for Kreen, what with dozens of multi-page threads on peoples successes. That's no more the case? Just a few randon examples for a few months:

'98 Accord 2.3L Kreen Test

I'm starting this new thread separately from what I started yesterday evening as I jumped in on demarpaint's project... So some of you may have already seen some of this movie: Rec'd my package of Kreen yesterday and am especially anxious to throw this in my daughter's '98 accord Quick detail...

bobistheoilguy.com

must lie to buy Kreen

I was looking into buying some Kreen and took the time to read the agreement that you must accept before you can purchase Kano Labs products. The following statement is listed: "ALL PRODUCTS PRODUCED AND DISTRIBUTED BY KANO LABS ARE FOR USE IN THE MANUFACTURING PROCESS ONLY AND ARE NOT FOR...

bobistheoilguy.com

Kreen recommended, why not Chemtool B12?

This has been on my mind for a while, and in the spirit of picking some brains (this is BITOG after all), I had an inquiry. I've seen Kreen being recommended for it's cleaning abilities and with good posted results. Also, due to it's nature, I can't get it here in California. Part of that deals...

bobistheoilguy.com

 

[kschachn]

So what kind of deposits are you seeing and where? Varnish? Sludge? And on the valvetrain or on the bottom?

Or is this just another mental exercise with imagined issues?

 

[Lubener]

In the old days you would pour a quart of kerosene in it and run it for around 15 minutes and drain...It did work..

Not advisable. I know someone who seized his engine due to a sludge plug starving a main bearing of oil.

 

[Astro14]

Unless there is some sort of issue eg sticking lifters/lash adjusters don't waste you time or money.

It’s an oil using Volvo. About 1qt/1,000 miles. This is one of many threads where he’s trying to fix it.

 

[hrv]

Not advisable. I know someone who seized his engine due to a sludge plug starving a main bearing of oil.

could be I am just saying back in the 50s and 60s a lot of people would do that...

 

[UG_Passat]

Not advisable. I know someone who seized his engine due to a sludge plug starving a main bearing of oil.

I worked on my parent's Pinto and Corolla.... but then again, it was more for preventive maintenance than a corrective action for a sludged engine.,

 

[UG_Passat]

Looking for effective but "gentler" flush that can be accomplished while I drop off the car at an local mechanic to get the oil changed (in about 2k miles... currently oil has 1k... Doing a short OCI).

Idea is to drive to mechanic, book an appointment that's 30 min out, pour the flush while at a parking lot. Idle for 20 min and then give the keys to the mechanic so they can drive it into the bay and drain the oil / change filter.

The LM stuff is basically C11-C13 Hydrocarbon Alkanes, basically a solvent for varnish and lacquers. You might as well dump some kerosene in without paying for the German-engineered price tag.

The HPL is a gentler flush, but... will not work in the manner you're expecting. It's something that you replace a quart of (in a 5 quart crank), and go for a short OCI (about 2k miles), in a manner similar to the previous BITOG popular engine flush, AutoRX.

 

[Bill7]

Looking for effective but "gentler" flush that can be accomplished while I drop off the car at an local mechanic to get the oil changed (in about 2k miles... currently oil has 1k... Doing a short OCI).

Idea is to drive to mechanic, book an appointment that's 30 min out, pour the flush while at a parking lot. Idle for 20 min and then give the keys to the mechanic so they can drive it into the bay and drain the oil / change filter.

My experience with the gentler flushes is that they really don't do enough. If that is what you are looking for, then I would recommend LiquiMoly, as it very well known and used alot by owners of German cars without issues.

You may wish to use the gentler flushes like LiquiMoly to do some cleaning, and then eventually use stronger flushes.
The flush I've found most effective is: BG EPR 109. It is likely the most effective engine flush as it is one of the few flushes that targets piston ring cleanliness (in addition to sludge/varnish). It has very different ingredients and odor than other flushes I've used. You can find it on Amazon: 4 cans sold together for about $45 total.

 

[Trav]

It’s an oil using Volvo. About 1qt/1,000 miles. This is one of many threads where he’s trying to fix it.

Isnt this usually a PCV issue with these? If it was due to stuck/sticking rings I cant see a 10 min flush doing much of anything.

 

[TiGeo]

Use the flush, you have nothing to lose but a few bucks, many folks have reported improved oil consumption after using some of these products. I'd probably do it a few times with v. short OCIs and cheap (ST) oil/filters. Clearly the slow/long game is using an oil like the BITOG-popular HPL wtih lots of esters/ANs that promote deposit removal. Their EC is not going to do this for you in a 1 qt shot.