For an engine flush would you choose Liqui Moly or Lubegard engine flushes?

[demarpaint]

It’s an oil using Volvo. About 1qt/1,000 miles. This is one of many threads where he’s trying to fix it.

I'd try a piston soak then, if already done, I'd try it again. Then follow it up with Rislone HM Oil Treatment, 2 bottles for 100 miles, dump the oil and filter and run 1 bottle for a 3K interval.

 

[Owen Lucas]

I made a video on Liqui Moly Sludge Remover which I think it's perfect for your use case.

The Proline Engine Flush cannot be driven on, 10 - 20 minute idle and drain.

LM Sludge Remover allows you to drive up to 200km / 120miles then drain, just don't accelerate too hard.

I actually called Liqui Moly tech support in Germany to confirm this as research for my video. An actual engineer confirmed LM Pro line is stronger than the Sludge Remover.

Amazon.com

 

[Brian123]

Looking for effective but "gentler" flush that can be accomplished while I drop off the car at an local mechanic to get the oil changed (in about 2k miles... currently oil has 1k... Doing a short OCI).

Idea is to drive to mechanic, book an appointment that's 30 min out, pour the flush while at a parking lot. Idle for 20 min and then give the keys to the mechanic so they can drive it into the bay and drain the oil / change filter.

BG EPR 109

 

[Revving2Redline]

BG EPR 109 and prior to it, I would make sure you have a functional EGR and PCV valve. Running some quality fuel with a bottle of pea fuel system cleaner to half or three quarter full prior can't hurt and does work to clean these emissions systems as stated by Redline. If BG isn't available or affordable I suggest running the Gumout Multitune fuel system cleaner in the tank minus the one ounce per quart of oil and use in the crankcase and let idle as you would the EPR. I think the EPR is maybe stouter but you get more areas to clean with the Gumout for lesser money.

 

[grammatoncleric]

So what kind of deposits are you seeing and where? Varnish? Sludge? And on the valvetrain or on the bottom?

Or is this just another mental exercise with imagined issues?

Burning oil through a stick piston ring. A known Volvo issue.

 

[ZZman]

I haven't used either so I have no opinion....

 

[Ihatetochangeoil]

It’s an oil using Volvo. About 1qt/1,000 miles. This is one of many threads where he’s trying to fix it.

There is no magic in a can. Poor design can only be corrected by better/alternate design.

 

[Plawan]

There is no magic in a can. Poor design can only be corrected by better/alternate design.

That’s true but sometimes the effects of a poor design can be helped. In this case possible caked up rings. If that is really the issue here and he can clean them up, he can keep them clean and therefore keep his Volvo with a poor design functional for maybe a long time.
If I get stage 1 diabetes I can take medication and take corrective measures, (put better foods in my body & get better exercise ) to maintain my health and still live a full life having never gotten a rebuild or new pancrease lol

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

There is no magic in a can.

Correct. But there's magic in the black bottles with gray, yellow, and green labels

 

[Duckless]

10-15 years ago there was much love for Kreen, what with dozens of multi-page threads on peoples successes. That's no more the case? Just a few randon examples for a few months:

'98 Accord 2.3L Kreen Test

I'm starting this new thread separately from what I started yesterday evening as I jumped in on demarpaint's project... So some of you may have already seen some of this movie: Rec'd my package of Kreen yesterday and am especially anxious to throw this in my daughter's '98 accord Quick detail...

bobistheoilguy.com

must lie to buy Kreen

I was looking into buying some Kreen and took the time to read the agreement that you must accept before you can purchase Kano Labs products. The following statement is listed: "ALL PRODUCTS PRODUCED AND DISTRIBUTED BY KANO LABS ARE FOR USE IN THE MANUFACTURING PROCESS ONLY AND ARE NOT FOR...

bobistheoilguy.com

Kreen recommended, why not Chemtool B12?

This has been on my mind for a while, and in the spirit of picking some brains (this is BITOG after all), I had an inquiry. I've seen Kreen being recommended for it's cleaning abilities and with good posted results. Also, due to it's nature, I can't get it here in California. Part of that deals...

bobistheoilguy.com

Have a few cans sitting in the garage for future projects. Great stuff! I don't think Kano makes a poor performing project, though.

 

[nicholas]

My experience with the gentler flushes is that they really don't do enough. If that is what you are looking for, then I would recommend LiquiMoly, as it very well known and used alot by owners of German cars without issues.

You may wish to use the gentler flushes like LiquiMoly to do some cleaning, and then eventually use stronger flushes.
The flush I've found most effective is: BG EPR 109. It is likely the most effective engine flush as it is one of the few flushes that targets piston ring cleanliness (in addition to sludge/varnish). It has very different ingredients and odor than other flushes I've used. You can find it on Amazon: 4 cans sold together for about $45 total.

Or 1 can in Canada for 50.......

It's great stuff.