Do control arms need to be replaced in pairs? Subaru problem with the right side

[slacktide_bitog]

The SJ Forester 2014-2018 has problems with the right control arm bushing, as an AC drain hose is located right on top of the right control arm bushing, causing it to drip all over the bushing and cause it to rot

The car will shake violently above 50 mph, and it is obviously from the lower right where that bushing is.

Because the bushing failed for that specific reason, is it ok to only replace the right control arm, or do they need to be replaced in pairs?

OE control arms are $200-250 each, so $400-500 for the pair. Moog, Mevotech, and Suspensia cost a lot less, but I don't know how good they are. Delphi and CTR don't make control arms for this car. There is another one called SuperPro with poly bushings that costs $400 for the pair and are only sold as a pair.

So would you buy just the right OEM control arm, or would you get one or two Moog/Mevotech/Suspensia arms, the poly pair, or would you just suck it up and buy two OEM control arms from the dealer?

Here is a video on it, and the fix:

 

[dogememe]

Sounds like it’s a specific issue vs general wear and tear. I’d only change the bad side if it was my car.

 

[John105]

I know on my toyota product dealer wanted $1,800 for a pair, but the forum online said to get the bushings pressed out and in, rather than throw away the entire arm and buy a new one (This was $350 labor plus $160 parts). So in this case it was done as a pair, the idea being if one bushing is cracking the other should. But I would say doesn't have to be...

 

[Greasymechtech]

Replace bushing as needed. Poly is an option and should be considered if available.

Leave the other side alone. If/when it goes, then you replace it.

Is there an option to reroute or divert/shield the HVAC drip line?

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Replace bushing as needed. Poly is an option and should be considered if available.

Leave the other side alone. If/when it goes, then you replace it.

The poly control arms are only sold in pairs anyway, so if you have to buy both, you might as well replace them at the same time.

If I only replace one, I'm only going to buy one.

Is there an option to reroute or divert/shield the HVAC drip line?

Yes, as shown in the second video in the OP. He added some heater hose

 

[CarDoc66]

The poly bushings I have installed on your style control arms (Subaru's) failed as fast, or faster than the rubber. I never replace the arm, I just pressed in a new bushing. I took new factory bushings that had the voids in them, cleaned off the waxy release agents form the rubber and filled the voids with windshield urethane. I let them set up for about a week and installed them. Those lasted until I sold the car (about 7 years) and were still in good shape when I sold the car.

 

[MSCH]

if u are sure just one part is worn out, then by all means replace that one part..

 

[D60]

The poly bushings I have installed on your style control arms (Subaru's) failed as fast, or faster than the rubber. I never replace the arm, I just pressed in a new bushing. I took new factory bushings that had the voids in them, cleaned off the waxy release agents form the rubber and filled the voids with windshield urethane. I let them set up for about a week and installed them. Those lasted until I sold the car (about 7 years) and were still in good shape when I sold the car.

Auto glass urethane is crazy stuff! It'll glue metal and glass together and holds amazingly well

 

[atikovi]

1) I don't see water dripping directly on the bushing.
2} Since when does water rot out rubber?
3) If it was a crash part replacement, nobody would replace both sides.

 

[The Critic]

You can just replace that bushing. 1” SAE impact socket is a perfect fit for pressing it out.

 

[CarDoc66]

Auto glass urethane is crazy stuff! It'll glue metal and glass together and holds amazingly well

You're not kidding.... that tough stuff when it is fully cured. It bonds to a clean natural rubber surface good too.

 

[D60]

View attachment 150767

You can just replace that bushing. 1” SAE impact socket is a perfect fit for pressing it out.

I've been known to salvage the inner metal sleeve (because they are HARD) and just chuck up a hunk of acetal or HDPE and turn a bushing. I haven't done it on Subarus but have for GM control arms and leaf spring and shock bushings.

 

[Rand]

has nothing to do with the A/C hose. The subi bushings rot FAST.

the 2013 outback looked worse at 5 years old than a 10 year old hyundai accent... MUCH worse.

I would replace bushings.. on both arms. not replace the arms.. most aftermarket are junk.

 

[The Critic]

has nothing to do with the A/C hose. The subi bushings rot FAST.

the 2013 outback looked worse at 5 years old than a 10 year old hyundai accent... MUCH worse.

Subaru bushings from that era are as bad as the old Honda compliance bushings. Except the Subaru arms are much easier to r/r.

 

[Greasymechtech]

Don't replace the control arm. The bushing is available in singles. Just replace the bushing. Can give it a shot of 3m window weld to waterproof it better.

Also available individually:

https://siberianbushing.com/part/8-06-3067

MOOG moog-k201605 Front Lower Rearward Control Arm Bushing | Suspension.com

Front Control Arm Bushings made by MOOG | moog-k201605 Front Lower Rearward Control Arm Bushing.

www.suspension.com

 

[michaelluscher]

Wasn't there a TSB for a revised bushing?
SERVICE BULLETIN - Nhtsa https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10142825-9999.pdf

 

[mt23]

Check the smaller inner bushing for excessive movement with prybar. I've seen lots of the inner bushings fail and create the symptoms you're describing. Would hate to see you go through the work of replacing the larger bushing only if the smaller inner one was completely falling apart like I've seen

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Wasn't there a TSB for a revised bushing?
SERVICE BULLETIN - Nhtsa https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10142825-9999.pdf

Too bad it's a TSB and not a recall

Also, if I did replace just the bushings, of course I'd replace both of them and the ball joint. Besides that bushing in the TSB, the other bushing is obviously shot, so I need to replace both anyway.

Another reason to get a complete control arm is to have everything new and pressed in.

 

[michaelluscher]

Too bad it's a TSB and not a recall

Also, if I did replace just the bushings, of course I'd replace both of them and the ball joint. Besides that bushing in the TSB, the other bushing is obviously shot, so I need to replace both anyway.

Another reason to get a complete control arm is to have everything new and pressed in.

But has the aftermarket incorporated the improved bushing?
If you buy a new arm from Subaru, you'll get it as per the bulletin?
I don't know the economics of the job, or Subaru suspension work, but I've had nothing but trouble with aftermarket rubber bushings (control arm or engine mount)

Depending on the condition of the vehicle and the economics of the job, it may or may not be worth the $210 per side

 

[slacktide_bitog]

But has the aftermarket incorporated the improved bushing?
If you buy a new arm from Subaru, you'll get it as per the bulletin?
I don't know the economics of the job, or Subaru suspension work, but I've had nothing but trouble with aftermarket rubber bushings (control arm or engine mount)

Depending on the condition of the vehicle and the economics of the job, it may or may not be worth the $210 per side

View attachment 151522

It's too bad the good aftermarket brand don't have control arms for this car. If Delphi or CTR made them, I'd have no problem using them. I'd even give Mevotech a chance if they made their TTX line for the Forester.

Suspensia seems to be a Turkish OE supplier, so I might consider those, or just cough up the $400 for OEM.