Defeated...Brake rotor separated from rotor hat during hammering....

[dlundblad]

Is it possible to just take the entire hub assembly off with the rotor hat stuck to it?

 

[Donald]

Make sure to grease the hub and inside of new rotor

I use a red spray Muscle Grease. I think I saw that on South Main Auto on YT.

These are the type of optional things a shop taking their time might do but a shop trying to get it done quickly might skip.

 

[Donald]

So how hard can one bang with a sledgehammer without worrying about damage to a hub or bearing?

 

[KrisZ]

So how hard can one bang with a sledgehammer without worrying about damage to a hub or bearing?

It's not how hard to hit, it's where you hit in order to send shocks/vibrations through the mating surface and break up the rust. That's why it's best to use a heavy hammer, but don't swing it hard, instead of a light one, or a dead blow and swinging like a mad man.
OP used a dead blow hammer, so there were minimal shocks/vibrations going though the rotor and the hub. That is why he broke the rotor instead of freeing it. The place he was hitting also contributed to that.

 

[dfarr67]

I've found that heating frozen parts- even with propane or pag helps break that bond.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

I've found that heating frozen parts- even with propane or pag helps break that bond.

Inner tie rod end jam nut that I couldn't break free for anything. 30 to 60 seconds with propane freed right up!
What is PAG? the modern MAP gas?

 

[Donald]

It's not how hard to hit, it's where you hit in order to send shocks/vibrations through the mating surface and break up the rust. That's why it's best to use a heavy hammer, but don't swing it hard, instead of a light one, or a dead blow and swinging like a mad man.
OP used a dead blow hammer, so there were minimal shocks/vibrations going though the rotor and the hub. That is why he broke the rotor instead of freeing it. The place he was hitting also contributed to that.

So where is the best place to hit the rotor so that the rotor will come off but not damage the hub/bearing.

 

[Warstud]

ANTISEIZE (in reasonable quantities) is your friend, here. I‘m a big fan of Deep Creep, that stuff seems to work itself into rust really well-and a LITTLE heat & time seems to help it get in even more!

I'm thinking a Lithium Bearing Grease may be the best since it has a high melting point . I would not suggest Fluid Film since it drips alot in warm temps and you sure dont want it getting on the Rotors .

 

[Bladecutter]

So where is the best place to hit the rotor so that the rotor will come off but not damage the hub/bearing.

In this thread, go to page two, and scroll down until you get to post #26.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

In this thread, go to page two, and scroll down until you get to post #26.

Start hammering at the edges of the rotor hat. Doesn’t need to be super hard, but but hard enough to send shocks and through it. Hit it few times and then rotate 90 degrees. Heat it up with the torch as well. Do this until the hat visibly loosens up.
If it’s really stubborn, soak it in a penetrating oil overnight and try again.

 

[The_Eric]

I haven't seen where it's been suggested to use a nut and bolt from the back side (in the caliper mounting holes) to push the rotor off the hub? Really easy to do - typically just use a 1/2" bolt and nut

 

[Thermo1223]

I've never used a dead blow, it's always a sledge, baby or otherwise. Also heat the outside of the rotor hat so it can expand & break free. Not the inner portion.

 

[KrisZ]

It would be good to have an update from the OP if he was successful or not.

 

[Number_35]

I haven't seen where it's been suggested to use a nut and bolt from the back side (in the caliper mounting holes) to push the rotor off the hub? Really easy to do - typically just use a 1/2" bolt and nut

I like the idea, but would be afraid of breaking ears off the knuckle.

 

[The_Eric]

I like the idea, but would be afraid of breaking ears off the knuckle.

I'm sure it can happen, but using a bit of common sense, I'm sure it's a non issue - I've done this many times in these sorts of situations

 

[mrbreezeet1]

I haven't seen where it's been suggested to use a nut and bolt from the back side (in the caliper mounting holes) to push the rotor off the hub? Really easy to do - typically just use a 1/2" bolt and nut

That's a good idea! They do that with hub bearings too! no reason it wouldn't work on a rotor!

 

[Blueshound]

I haven't seen where it's been suggested to use a nut and bolt from the back side (in the caliper mounting holes) to push the rotor off the hub? Really easy to do - typically just use a 1/2" bolt and nut

Unfortunately it's just as likely to bend or snap the ear off the hub. I don't recommend this method.

 

[mattd]

I'm sure it can happen, but using a bit of common sense, I'm sure it's a non issue - I've done this many times in these sorts of situations

The ears will bend easier than you think. I also do not recommend doing this.

 

[D60]

Unfortunately it's just as likely to bend or snap the ear off the hub. I don't recommend this method.

Excellent point! After recently bending the ears on a Subaru knuckle-- albeit in my press -- I agree this is a possibility.

That said, it may be a way to provide some preload while also employing other methods

 

[B6_Dolphin]

I've had this situation before... used a wheel puller, torqued it up, then banged the rotor with a hammer on a couple different areas (make sure the lug nuts are threaded a couple of the wheel studs). Tightened the wheel puller more, then banged the rotor with a hammer. Repeat until the rotor popped off the hub.