Defeated...Brake rotor separated from rotor hat during hammering....

[mrbreezeet1]

more like 250% increase vs my rock auto raybestos element 3's. Also not sure they would last 200-300 thousand miles.. or that I would want them to in the salt belt.

Element 3's are 118$ for 4 from rock auto..

That's not a bad price! Those are coated correct?

 

[Rand]

That's not a bad price! Those are coated correct?

yes I edited since you quoted though.. to clean it up abit.. after pricechecking some cryo rotors.

They are fully coated the pad will wear off the coating on the face where they work but it remains everywhere else.
Had about 1 day of "sandpaper" sounds while they broke in now nothing.. brakes like stock.. which IMO is good on this vehicle.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

yes I edited since you quoted though.. to clean it up abit.. after pricechecking some cryo rotors.

They are fully coated the pad will wear off the coating on the face where they work but it remains everywhere else.
Had about 1 day of "sandpaper" sounds while they broke in now nothing.. brakes like stock.. which IMO is good on this vehicle.

Good to know! Maybe I'll get two of them for the back of my 2001 Grand prix! I changed the front ones about two and a half years ago already

 

[John105]

Just to illustrate….

The first pic is from a forum, aftermarket BMW. The next three are from my own car.

OE that was on the car 3.5 years.

The last pic is OE from the factory 12 years on the car.

Imho the German ones are Zinc. And it works. Not sure about any others. GM OE rusts, Lexus OE rusts. Just not as much on the hats, but severely on the vanes…

 

[MrGraybeard]

Might want to read the first post again.

I guess you missed Post #25.

 

[Carlton]

Cut off the loose part of rotor with sawzall/cut off wheel/ect. so you have some room to work. Remove the remaining rotor hat and the wheel bearing assembly as a single piece. To do this you will have to remove the axle nut and the bolts on the backside. Use a puller or BFH to remove. If it's any consolation, you are going to have to replace your wheel bearing after beating on it and torching it anyways.

 

[sky]

Note to self: make sure to remove all rotors this fall, clean, and install anti-seize.

I try to rebuild all my brakes once a year, in the spring, if I have time and ambition, I do it in the fall too. Take it all apart, grease all sliding surfaces, put back together. 100k is easy for me to hit on brakes. Granted the rotor makes a vinyl record look pancake flat, but everything comes apart like it should. Good time to pull a bit of brake fluid through too, why worry about a full flush if you are pulling a bit every 6-12 months?

Yeah - reminding this for myself

If it matters at this point, make sure you're wearing eye and ear protection when you do any of this.

Oh yes - most definately. I'm throwing the towel in and will continue again later.

 

[sky]

I hope you got coated rotors to replace them with

Also, replace the rotors every time you replace the pads.

Do you have steel toe shoes? Maybe you can kick the rotor off

These are OEM Lexus/Toyota, so perhaps?

 

[mrbreezeet1]

If he has to replace the hub bearing won't the old rotor and bearing come off as one unit?
Or is this car a pressed in bearing?

Edit Oh, I see that's what Carlton said.​

 

[Marcozi]

Just to illustrate….

The first pic is from a forum, aftermarket BMW. The next three are from my own car.

OE that was on the car 3.5 years.

The last pic is OE from the factory 12 years on the car.

Imho the German ones are Zinc. And it works. Not sure about any others. GM OE rusts, Lexus OE rusts. Just not as much on the hats, but severely on the vanes…

View attachment 177059
View attachment 177060View attachment 177061View attachment 177062

Rotors made by Zimmerman FTW!

 

[John105]

These are OEM Lexus/Toyota, so perhaps?

I have OE Lexus. They look identical to coated Centrics. Only difference is Toyota is painted dull gray, and centric gloss black. Same x-hatching on disc surface.

I got $27 Centrics on my LS rears and they are fine. The Lexus OE are severely rusted in the vanes. Not like a BMW at all. But the Lexus doesn’t have set screws and the only thing holding the rotors are the fixed calipers…they fall off like a rin that’s been smoked for a 12 hours…

 

[mrbreezeet1]

yes I edited since you quoted though.. to clean it up abit.. after pricechecking some cryo rotors.

They are fully coated the pad will wear off the coating on the face where they work but it remains everywhere else.
Had about 1 day of "sandpaper" sounds while they broke in now nothing.. brakes like stock.. which IMO is good on this vehicle.

Rock Auto doesn't show the element 3's for my car.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Rock Auto doesn't show the element 3's for my car.

Good to know! Maybe I'll get two of them for the back of my 2001 Grand prix! I changed the front ones about two and a half years ago already

Yes, they do. Look under the gray section that says "Fully Coated (Maximum Protection for rust prone areas)"

They have the coated rotors for your 2001 Grand Prix. They also have a kit that includes the pads and rotors. Again, scroll to the gray section that says fully coated.

 

[02zx9r rev2]

I got the element 3’s for her 2015 Altima last summer. I did have to hit the oem rotors with a small sledgehammer to get off but nothing like the OP is/has. Bought the car in 2015 in LA, moved back to MA in 2018. Humidity and rust took its toll on them.

I’ve started taking brakes apart and cleaning, relubing slide pins, etc… before and after winter now to hopefully avoid all this in the future. I used anti-seize on hubs and Dave of rotors.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

Yes, they do. Look under the gray section that says "Fully Coated (Maximum Protection for rust prone areas)"

They have the coated rotors for your 2001 Grand Prix. They also have a kit that includes the pads and rotors. Again, scroll to the gray section that says fully coated.

Thanks!

 

[HangFire]

These are OEM Lexus/Toyota, so perhaps?

It's on the front, right?

Pop the ball joints, remove the steering links and any end link and drop the whole steering knuckle. Take it to a machine shop and see if they can save the knuckle.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

I got the element 3’s for her 2015 Altima last summer. I did have to hit the oem rotors with a small sledgehammer to get off but nothing like the OP is/has. Bought the car in 2015 in LA, moved back to MA in 2018. Humidity and rust took its toll on them.

I’ve started taking brakes apart and cleaning, re lubing slide pins, etc… before and after winter now to hopefully avoid all this in the future. I used anti-seize on hubs and Dave of rotors.

Yeah. those were pretty rusty!

 

[mrbreezeet1]

Thanks!
View attachment 177240

Went with the BendixCFC698 Premium Copper Free Ceramic Brake Pad

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EWBBL1O?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

 

[mrbreezeet1]

It's on the front, right?

Pop the ball joints, remove the steering links and any end link and drop the whole steering knuckle. Take it to a machine shop and see if they can save the knuckle.

That would work! I think the issue here, or the downside to ^^^^^^^^^^^^ is that it is the consensus that the bearing has already been damaged and will require replacement anyways. So, it looks like the OP can just unbolt the bearing/hub/rotor assembly from the knuckle as a unit, and hopefully not have trouble removing the bearing/hub assembly, and then replace all his components.

 

[The Critic]

I got the element 3’s for her 2015 Altima last summer. I did have to hit the oem rotors with a small sledgehammer to get off but nothing like the OP is/has. Bought the car in 2015 in LA, moved back to MA in 2018. Humidity and rust took its toll on them.

I’ve started taking brakes apart and cleaning, relubing slide pins, etc… before and after winter now to hopefully avoid all this in the future. I used anti-seize on hubs and Dave of rotors.

I'm suspicious that many of these aftermarket coated rotors are not using Geomet (or equivalent), but rather, a low-end spray paint. I have seen many coated (i.e. silver looking) aftermarket rotors rust worse than OE.