Dead rechargeable batteries on cordless drill

[Driz]

This is why I only use corded stuff.

No way........ I was using cordless back in the mid 80s when they were piss poor and even then they had a very valid Place in things. Todays high end cordless tools are pretty much all you need unless it’s hogging a 1” hole in heavy plate or hammer drilling old concrete. That’s where the dust gets blown off my corded gear.
I remember phones with cords too. I wouldn’t go back to those if you paid me.

 

[dubber09]

There are videos on youtube showing how to revive (not completely) dead battery by temporarily connecting the batt to another batt to get some charge to it so that wall charger can pick up from there.

 

[wrcsixeight]

It's criminal that two new batteries are about 10% less than buying a new drill driver combo with new charger and batteries. I've an ~ 7 year old 18v makita drill driver whose batteries are approaching worthlessness.

The cheaper aftermarket packs have wildly varying reviews and therefore untrustworthy. I've no desire to buy individual cells or a battery spot welder then still have to deal with makita's electrical neuterer, and the drill is showing some issues, so I am likely to get new

I've wired up 9.6 12v and 14.4v drills and ran them off a 12v battery, but this defeats the cordless. The 14.4v drill, one might think it would be weak on a 12v battery, but it is not. The 9.6v drill on a 12v battery works amazingly well.

I've some 24v hedge clippers that I have run on a small 12v AGM but they are weak and bought another 12v AGM for 24v and 10AWg to motor and this works well, but for the 10awg powercord and 25 Lb battery.

1.5v NiMH individual cells, when a charger refuses to charge them, I have hooked them to 12v for about 1/3 a second, and they get incredibly hot, and then once cooled slightly, the charger recognizes them and charges them. I'd not try this with Lithium cells.

I'm seriously irritated with the fact that perfectly good tools are designed for landfills, because new batteries for them are only slightly less expensive than new tools that come with two new batteries.

 

[eljefino]

I've got a craftsman 1/4" impact charger that "spaces out" and the battery drops to nothing. Have brought it back with manual charging. For me they're "12V peak" li-ion (so three cells) and I give them ~5 min on a 12V lead acid trickle charger from HF. This gives enough of a surface charge for the real charger to recognize them and continue the work.

 

[dubber09]

I just recently went with buying 'combos' for cordless tools - got Milwaukee 3/8" stubby (2554-22) with charger and 2 batteries (4Ah and 2Ah) and then got Milwaukee hammer drill (2504-21c) with 2Ah batt and charger. It was cheaper to get those tools and batts and now 2 chargers via combos. I should be good for a few years.

 

[Fitter30]

I've been using aftermarket batteries for dewalt 14.4 & 18 v they don't last like genuine dewalt in tool use time or longevity. But for the homeowner there ok no way for the contractor.

 

[dubber09]

I'm just a DIY guy but like good tools if they make sense to own, if price can be justified for the work to do and life of the tool.
Also, with Lithium batteries, I believe it's highly recommended not to drain them too low or ideally not below 40% charge left before recharging them and ideally not to go to 100% but around 80% - to maximize lifespan of the battery. I charge mine fully but recharge after dropping to 25-50%.

 

[Kawiguy454]

Smart batteries have internal monitor chips and will brick if a cell is detected as bad. Other than Nicad newer types should be stored long term Not completely charged. And if long life is desired should never be used much below 50% if it can be helped.