I drive 20 year old vehicles, and NEVER have I left a CEL on for more than it takes me to drive home and plug in my OBDII and figure out the problem. Last time it was a misfire that I diagnosed and fixed (failed spark plug gasket getting oil all over the plug).
Confess if you drive around with your CEL on
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gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
I drove around in my '97 Legacy with the CEL on for a year. It took me that long to realize the EGR solenoid had failed open. Nothing in the Haynes manual or online pointed toward it and I even replaced the EGR valve (wasted money), tested the MAP sensor and cleaned the EGR tube without success.
I was literally singl-digit days away from when my emissions was due and I got lucky. I pulled the solenoid and blew through it - I was able to. I asked Secor Subaru (awesome service department, btw) if I could check the same solenoid and he tore open the plastic and let me see a new one. I blew threw it and...nothing - blocked! I paid the dealer price for it (a little less than a hundred bucks) and installed it in the parking lot. A couple of days later the CEL cleared on its own and I drove immediately to the emissions test station, with less than a week to spare.
I was literally singl-digit days away from when my emissions was due and I got lucky. I pulled the solenoid and blew through it - I was able to. I asked Secor Subaru (awesome service department, btw) if I could check the same solenoid and he tore open the plastic and let me see a new one. I blew threw it and...nothing - blocked! I paid the dealer price for it (a little less than a hundred bucks) and installed it in the parking lot. A couple of days later the CEL cleared on its own and I drove immediately to the emissions test station, with less than a week to spare.
I would be driving around with a Cat inefficiency code right now, but I turned cat monitoring off in the ECU.
Other than that, I generally fix it quickly.
Other than that, I generally fix it quickly.
1 EGR sensor and 2 EGR solenoid codes because they're not there
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You can always read the code if you have a code reader or you can get that done for free at any parts store.
You can the evaluate the severity of the issue and plan your fixing accordingly.
Evap codes are way down my list of concerns in life and I give them that level of urgent attention.
You can the evaluate the severity of the issue and plan your fixing accordingly.
Evap codes are way down my list of concerns in life and I give them that level of urgent attention.
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
You can always read the code if you have a code reader or you can get that done for free at any parts store.
You can the evaluate the severity of the issue and plan your fixing accordingly.
Evap codes are way down my list of concerns in life and I give them that level of urgent attention.
Yeah, I've got the very small evap leak code and it is most likely the capless fuel filler neck. I don't have emissions tests to pass in my area so I haven't been motivated to replace the filler neck
You can always read the code if you have a code reader or you can get that done for free at any parts store.
You can the evaluate the severity of the issue and plan your fixing accordingly.
Evap codes are way down my list of concerns in life and I give them that level of urgent attention.
Yeah, I've got the very small evap leak code and it is most likely the capless fuel filler neck. I don't have emissions tests to pass in my area so I haven't been motivated to replace the filler neck
Nope...only ever had one, and it was the Wife's Captiva after I fitted a tuning box to it.
Bought the Bosch reader that day, identified the problem (rail pressure high), returned the tuning box for a refund.
Cleared the code.
Already it's helped diagnose one of my workmate's sticky DBW throttle issue (he was having cruise control and stability control faults, that turned out to be a bad DBW throttle body motor).
Since having the reader, I know that the Colorado has 5% EGR signal at idle within 20 seconds of a cold start, and pulling out from the front of my house, runs 4psi boost just pulling away from the kerb uphill.
Bought the Bosch reader that day, identified the problem (rail pressure high), returned the tuning box for a refund.
Cleared the code.
Already it's helped diagnose one of my workmate's sticky DBW throttle issue (he was having cruise control and stability control faults, that turned out to be a bad DBW throttle body motor).
Since having the reader, I know that the Colorado has 5% EGR signal at idle within 20 seconds of a cold start, and pulling out from the front of my house, runs 4psi boost just pulling away from the kerb uphill.
I check the code(s) as soon as I can safely do so after the light comes on(I keep a USB OBD-II reader in the car for a variety of reasons, and my laptop is often riding in the car with me).
Fixing it comes as soon as I diagnose the problem and get the correct parts-or get it to my mechanic if it's over my head.
My LS has thrown two codes in my 100K of owning it, and both were pretty obvious. One was a misfire code related to a failing COP, although unfortunately the design of the system caused stray RF from the failing coil to also trigger an erroneous code with a throttle body defect. The other time was a burst radiator hose-something pretty obvious from the amount of steam coming from under the hood and then the coolant and "exploded hose" when I popped the hood.
Fixing it comes as soon as I diagnose the problem and get the correct parts-or get it to my mechanic if it's over my head.
My LS has thrown two codes in my 100K of owning it, and both were pretty obvious. One was a misfire code related to a failing COP, although unfortunately the design of the system caused stray RF from the failing coil to also trigger an erroneous code with a throttle body defect. The other time was a burst radiator hose-something pretty obvious from the amount of steam coming from under the hood and then the coolant and "exploded hose" when I popped the hood.
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
Yup, I added an auxiliary switch to the electric fan on my Jeep. If I turn the switch on, the CEL comes on for "open fan circuit" but when I turn the switch off, later that day the CEL goes away.
Doesn't bother me. When it's due for emissions I just won't turn the fan switch on for a couple days (it comes on automatically too).
Doesn't bother me. When it's due for emissions I just won't turn the fan switch on for a couple days (it comes on automatically too).
I do! But only for about half of the year for the last four years or so.
My 2002 Ranger has a temperature dependent failure of it's fuel level sensor. When ambient temps are below about 65*F it sends a bad signal and the gauge reads way past full. The computer does not like this, as it uses fuel level as one of its flex fuel inputs, so it throws a CEL. The truck still runs fine and figures out what its burning, but I guess it takes longer since it doesn't know if its fuel level has changed. When temps are warmer, no problems. To fix it is as much work as replacing the fuel pump, so I'm waiting on that.
My 2002 Ranger has a temperature dependent failure of it's fuel level sensor. When ambient temps are below about 65*F it sends a bad signal and the gauge reads way past full. The computer does not like this, as it uses fuel level as one of its flex fuel inputs, so it throws a CEL. The truck still runs fine and figures out what its burning, but I guess it takes longer since it doesn't know if its fuel level has changed. When temps are warmer, no problems. To fix it is as much work as replacing the fuel pump, so I'm waiting on that.
I tried fixing it with a new o2 sensor but apparently its the wrong one. I don't know when I'll get around to trying another one.
In 25 years driving only had 3 of them. Two went away within a few days and last was loss of compression due to burnt valve
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
You can always read the code if you have a code reader or you can get that done for free at any parts store.
You can the evaluate the severity of the issue and plan your fixing accordingly.
Evap codes are way down my list of concerns in life and I give them that level of urgent attention.
oh I have scanners galore, a scan gauge, an obdii C&C, Bluetooth, etc. one code on the Acura is for the ECU and the other is for an o2 sensor. I bought the sensor long ago but never got around to putting it in. One feeble attempt was all I tried haha. Car still runs nicely. The Honda Insight has about every code in the book showing and doesn't even run well, the BMW convertible has a light for an eBay ecu upgrade chip - some comforti ripoff- that I got to improve performance (didn't do much). I can go on... they were just low priority lol
You can always read the code if you have a code reader or you can get that done for free at any parts store.
You can the evaluate the severity of the issue and plan your fixing accordingly.
Evap codes are way down my list of concerns in life and I give them that level of urgent attention.
oh I have scanners galore, a scan gauge, an obdii C&C, Bluetooth, etc. one code on the Acura is for the ECU and the other is for an o2 sensor. I bought the sensor long ago but never got around to putting it in. One feeble attempt was all I tried haha. Car still runs nicely. The Honda Insight has about every code in the book showing and doesn't even run well, the BMW convertible has a light for an eBay ecu upgrade chip - some comforti ripoff- that I got to improve performance (didn't do much). I can go on... they were just low priority lol
I do with the P0452 code. It don't come on that often, but when it does, it always clears itself out eventually.
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Yup, I added an auxiliary switch to the electric fan on my Jeep. If I turn the switch on, the CEL comes on for "open fan circuit" but when I turn the switch off, later that day the CEL goes away.
Doesn't bother me. When it's due for emissions I just won't turn the fan switch on for a couple days (it comes on automatically too).
If you are tapped into the fan relay and triggering it that way, you can add a diode between the pcm and where you are tapping off. Then it wont see you closing the relay.
Yup, I added an auxiliary switch to the electric fan on my Jeep. If I turn the switch on, the CEL comes on for "open fan circuit" but when I turn the switch off, later that day the CEL goes away.
Doesn't bother me. When it's due for emissions I just won't turn the fan switch on for a couple days (it comes on automatically too).
If you are tapped into the fan relay and triggering it that way, you can add a diode between the pcm and where you are tapping off. Then it wont see you closing the relay.
Haha love this topic!
My accord is CEL free.
My Lexus just threw one P0430 a month or so ago.... not sure what my plan is...
But I have definitely been driving it
My accord is CEL free.
My Lexus just threw one P0430 a month or so ago.... not sure what my plan is...
But I have definitely been driving it
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