Cold air intake, Circuit Style!

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I re-routed the air intake on my 1zz to draw in cooler air.
I wanted to disturb the stock intake (which is well designed, IMHO) as little as possible.
I didn't want to spend much $$ (ended up costing under $10), didn't want to make more noise, didn't want to fiddle with the MAF sensor and didn't want to deal with the little cone filters or oil impregnated filters, which let more dirt in.
And it's a 10 minute job to go back to stock.

Whatever restriction the stock system has is only significant at wide open throttle and high rpm, a condition I basically never reach.
What I want is more mid-range torque, especially on a hot day with the AC cranking.

The stock system ended in front of the battery with some cool air coming in through the gap around the headlight housing.
I removed the end piece, bent the fiber hose down and loosely fitted a length of 3" "dryer vent" aluminum flex hose.
This hose is routed through a gap behind the fog lamp mounting point and ends near the lower grill.
Now the air is taken from a point before the radiator can heat it.
The loose fitting at the fiber hose, plus the end point out of the incoming air stream should reduce any danger of hydrolock.
I decided not to point the inlet facing out the grill for a "ram" effect because it might take in too much water in heavy rain.

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Here's an OBD-II chart with the original intake showing coolant temp, speed and intake temp on a 35 minute drive.

coolant_1.jpg.w560h527.jpg


This was a cold start, ambient temp 50F, foggy using AC & defroster, mostly stop and go 35mph and below.
Intake stays cool until ~10.5 minutes when I'm waiting in line at the recycling/trash dump.
The radiator gets fully warmed up and the intake rises to 15-20 deg. above ambient and stays there even after I get going again.

With the warm weather on the East Coast I've been unable to do a similar drive with the modified intake.

coolant_3.jpg.w560h539.jpg


The above is a warm start, ambient 81F, again mostly stop and go under 35mph.
The intake is heat soaked but cools off to within a few degrees of ambient in ~5 minutes.
With no AC use the radiator fan doesn't kick on until the coolant gets hotter: 205F vs 188F.
The intake stays pretty cool until I get into some bogged down in 10mph traffic at ~54 minutes.
Once I get going the intake starts cooling down. In the meantime the radiator is fully hot & fan is cycling.

By the seat of the pants the throttle response didn't get sluggish in the hot stop-and-go like it has in the past.

Here's 30 minutes of another run. Sorry about the changed order of graphs.
Driving through town then on to the highway.
Warm start, ambient 61F.
The intake falls to within 2 deg. of ambient after a few minutes on the highway.

temps_4.jpg.w560h545.jpg
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Just so you realize that colder air may cost you some mileage.


How? The ECM adjusts the fuel/air mix.
My last fillup was 28mpg, about the same as the last few.
That last run on the highway averaged 37mpg, according to the OBD-II logger.
 
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Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
In heavy rainfall with standing water on roadways, you're going to ingest a lot of water with that setup.


The inlet is shielded from front tire splash and out of the front grill airstream.
 
Originally Posted By: circuitsmith
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Just so you realize that colder air may cost you some mileage.


How? The ECM adjusts the fuel/air mix.


That's correct, it does adjust. When you add more air to the mix (a cooler,denser charge), you need more fuel.

I also agree with Drew that you will probably pick up H2O.
 
Originally Posted By: Zaedock
When you add more air to the mix (a cooler,denser charge), you need more fuel.


And with cooler,denser air you compensate by closing the throttle slightly to get back to the same air mass and power.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: circuitsmith
Originally Posted By: Zaedock
When you add more air to the mix (a cooler,denser charge), you need more fuel.


And with cooler,denser air you compensate by closing the throttle slightly to get back to the same air mass and power.

And with the throttle slightly closed you have higher pumping losses. It's probably not all that significant, though.
 
Ambient 'cold air' intakes are my first choice, but once moving, the underhood air of warm intakes is purged rather well. Only stopped and slow moving vehicles will note a difference in real life.
 
Interesting. On my vehicles, as long as you're moving much above 5-10 mph intake air temp is within a few degrees of ambient temp. Your vehicle seems to have much higher intake temps than ambient as normal.
 
My Honda S2000 has very high intake temp, can be as high as 40-60F above ambient temp when the car was moving at speed of 40-50 MPH. When I remove the top of the air box, the intake temp was as high as 80F above ambient while the car was at speed of 40-50 mph.
 
My buddy used the same dryer hose for the intake on his '87 6.2L Suburban, which was very restrictive due to a narrow intake muffler. His goes right to the grille for ram air though. It's been in there for over a decade with no problems.
 
Dude! Are you southern by birth? If not we have a place for you down here. That's what all my buds from "up north" would call "redneck" engineering. I like it!!!!
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Originally Posted By: cchase
Interesting. On my vehicles, as long as you're moving much above 5-10 mph intake air temp is within a few degrees of ambient temp. Your vehicle seems to have much higher intake temps than ambient as normal.


How are you measuring this?
 
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