4WD
$50 site donor 2025
Did you see the filter Wayne posted?
Changing oil filter only - 2024 Bronco 2.7L
- Thread starter Texchappy
- Start date
How hard is an oil change on this thing?
If the filter has break in material, so does the oil. Get all of that out early, or just ride it out until the OLM tells you.
If the filter has break in material, so does the oil. Get all of that out early, or just ride it out until the OLM tells you.
4WD
$50 site donor 2025
That’s the key - the debris flush and initial break in is done by 1k … it’s all slow motion after that … Is it needed? Who knows - but my last vehicle to use oil was a 79 PowerWagon at the valve stems …
They have 4 2024's near me at 20000 off.
Hard to tell what’s needed or not. This is more of a precaution IMO. There could be lots of material floating in there or very little. Could be big chunks, or small.
Manufacturing processes vary to this day, it’s the nature of the beast. And there is no way of knowing which side of the quality bell curve the product we bought lands under.
The only sure to deal with this is to simply change the oil.
I have the 2.7l EB in my 2025 Ranger. At 500 miles I dumped the factory fill, changed the filter and went with Amsoil. I purchased a Ronin oil drain plug and an UPR Products oil drain plug. I found the UPR plug to be a better design. I like that it has two gaskets going into the oil pan and that it has a ball drain valve, like a Fumoto drain plug. With the Ronin drain plug you need the screw-in piece to open up the valve. Both are very well built and have magnetic tips.
https://www.uprproducts.com/upr-for...-bronco/?searchid=267368&search_query=3025-03
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H56TP4F?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1
The attached UOA confirmed my decision to change the oil.
https://www.uprproducts.com/upr-for...-bronco/?searchid=267368&search_query=3025-03
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H56TP4F?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1
The attached UOA confirmed my decision to change the oil.
As a prior 2.7 owner the filter never seemed loaded up and I mostl ended up following the OLM. It only started showing tiny metal filings when the chain got noisy on startup.
I did find changing the oil early when it was new as helpful - it consumed some and also “made” oil when it was early in life, and settled down by 20k miles nicely.
I did find changing the oil early when it was new as helpful - it consumed some and also “made” oil when it was early in life, and settled down by 20k miles nicely.
If it’s going to bother you the entire the trip then change it. If not then let it ride until you get back.
I changed-out the oil & filter in both my Audis (purchased new) @ 1k miles. Since your oil filter is "on top", go buy an oil extractor, extract the oil, change the filter, and refill with new oil. You'll be done in a 1/2 hr. (tops). I perform oil and filter changes every 5k miles on my 2 Audis - both have cartridge filters in screw-on filter housings located in the "hot-V".
Since both engines have ~8-qt capacities, I bought a 10-qt capacity extractor:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bav-aut...p-stick-tube-bavarian-autosport/b8800001~bav/
Anyways, using an extractor is great because you don't have to mess with the drain plug, drain pans, putting the vehicle on ramps, or removing/installing the underbody panels (if applicable).
I would change the oil and filter now. The Motorcraft synthetic blend 5w30 factory fill doesn’t stand up to the fuel dilution and/or will lose viscosity for other reasons relatively quickly in these turbocharged engines. Mobil 1 ESP 0w-30 would be a good choice. I’m trying VRP and HPL in my two Broncos. I’ve seen good UOA results on another forum with PUP 0W-40 on this engine, but it was just one UOA.
Several of us are using the Fram FE11955 synthetic endurance cartridge oil filters which seem to hold up well and have good filtering efficiency at ~20 microns (99%). I believe the Fram Ultra is the same but a little more expensive, or try a carquest premium. I think the oil life monitor uses 10,000 miles or 1 year, whichever is closer, so it probably says 55% due to time in your case (oil filled ~7 months ago).
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If you're gonna change the oil, just change the filter. There has to be some metal in it.
Nope, the oil has tons of metal shavings as well. If the filter has metal shavings, so will the oil. This is true for break in period as well as any type of engine failure that results in shedding metal.
I would not reuse the filter after cutting it open.
When I bought my 2022 GMC I changed the oil at around 1k miles as a pre-caution. I was pleasantly disappointed to see that nothing bad was in the oil or filter (cartridge style). Total waste of time and money, other than the peace of mind that the engine had no visible debris in it. Very strange feeling.
So my vote is to let it ride. Not only because it will be a waste of time and energy, but also to avoid the anxiety if something was found. What if you notice the tiniest shiny metallic speck in the oil? For me, that would ruin the road trip. I'd be internally panicking about something that is likely meaningless.
Enjoy your trip!
So my vote is to let it ride. Not only because it will be a waste of time and energy, but also to avoid the anxiety if something was found. What if you notice the tiniest shiny metallic speck in the oil? For me, that would ruin the road trip. I'd be internally panicking about something that is likely meaningless.
Enjoy your trip!
