Changing oil filter only - 2024 Bronco 2.7L

How hard is an oil change on this thing?
If the filter has break in material, so does the oil. Get all of that out early, or just ride it out until the OLM tells you.
That’s the key - the debris flush and initial break in is done by 1k … it’s all slow motion after that … Is it needed? Who knows - but my last vehicle to use oil was a 79 PowerWagon at the valve stems …
 
That’s the key - the debris flush and initial break in is done by 1k … it’s all slow motion after that … Is it needed? Who knows - but my last vehicle to use oil was a 79 PowerWagon at the valve stems …
Hard to tell what’s needed or not. This is more of a precaution IMO. There could be lots of material floating in there or very little. Could be big chunks, or small.
Manufacturing processes vary to this day, it’s the nature of the beast. And there is no way of knowing which side of the quality bell curve the product we bought lands under.

The only sure to deal with this is to simply change the oil.
 
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It's likely not necessary, but I'd change both the oil and the filter. My rec is to buy both at the dealer. Keep the receipt and start a maintenance log. I changed the oil and filter on my car at 1200 miles, and then again at 3000 miles.
 
I have the 2.7l EB in my 2025 Ranger. At 500 miles I dumped the factory fill, changed the filter and went with Amsoil. I purchased a Ronin oil drain plug and an UPR Products oil drain plug. I found the UPR plug to be a better design. I like that it has two gaskets going into the oil pan and that it has a ball drain valve, like a Fumoto drain plug. With the Ronin drain plug you need the screw-in piece to open up the valve. Both are very well built and have magnetic tips.

https://www.uprproducts.com/upr-for...-bronco/?searchid=267368&search_query=3025-03

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H56TP4F?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1

The attached UOA confirmed my decision to change the oil.

IMG_2403.webp
 
As a prior 2.7 owner the filter never seemed loaded up and I mostl ended up following the OLM. It only started showing tiny metal filings when the chain got noisy on startup.

I did find changing the oil early when it was new as helpful - it consumed some and also “made” oil when it was early in life, and settled down by 20k miles nicely.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. I’ve decided to wait until I get back.
I changed-out the oil & filter in both my Audis (purchased new) @ 1k miles. Since your oil filter is "on top", go buy an oil extractor, extract the oil, change the filter, and refill with new oil. You'll be done in a 1/2 hr. (tops). I perform oil and filter changes every 5k miles on my 2 Audis - both have cartridge filters in screw-on filter housings located in the "hot-V".

Since both engines have ~8-qt capacities, I bought a 10-qt capacity extractor:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bav-aut...p-stick-tube-bavarian-autosport/b8800001~bav/

Anyways, using an extractor is great because you don't have to mess with the drain plug, drain pans, putting the vehicle on ramps, or removing/installing the underbody panels (if applicable).
 
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