Bought a '07 Harlet Heritage Softail Classic !!

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Originally Posted By: fuel tanker man
I go away for a few weeks and you've all forgotten what you'd learned!

My bad ... my very, very bad!

Originally Posted By: fuel tanker man
But if you're of sound mind and capable of reason ...

You're kidding, right? This group?
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Originally Posted By: fuel tanker man
Wear metal count is what you're really looking for, the lower the better.

What are you talking about? I looked at that Havoline UOA and one of the metals -- Zinc -- was up in the 1000ppm range!

Low wear metals ... yeah, right.
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Originally Posted By: tpitcher
Oil cost difference means nothing to me - I want the best in her...

I'll research the ARO/MCF difference - thanks.

Pablo mentioned SVO for the tranny, I'll go with that...

Thanks!!!
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Use the Amsoil 20w50 MCV (5000 OCI) in the engine & primary and the 75w110 severe gear in the trans (run the trans at least 15,000) but stick with the Harley 5 micron oil filter with the synthetic media. It has the correct bypass pressure setting and filtration level for your engine. The TC88 & 96 engines use oil jets to cool the pistons so you want to make certain you have the correct bypass pressure. But I would change at 2500 miles. You will like the amsoil over the Syn3. BTW, you don't need a UOA with the amsoil as there are hundreds of guys all over the internet motorcycle forums using amsoil with excellent results. I have never heard of any issues ever. You can run that oil in parade mode all day and it will stand up to the higher heat generated by the TC96.
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Is there a Icon for opening up a can of worms??
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There should be...
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This IS what I WILL do:
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I will change out the Screaming Eagle (Harley) oil right away with 500+ miles as soon as I order it from Amsoil. I will put in a EAO oil filter. I may (will) ride some in between, before I get the Amsoil.

Sounds like I should do a UOA this Fall with Amsoil. We need more data!

(The data will set you free) !
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Originally Posted By: TucsonDon
Originally Posted By: fuel tanker man
I go away for a few weeks and you've all forgotten what you'd learned!

My bad ... my very, very bad!

Originally Posted By: fuel tanker man
But if you're of sound mind and capable of reason ...

You're kidding, right? This group?
wink.gif



Originally Posted By: fuel tanker man
Wear metal count is what you're really looking for, the lower the better.

What are you talking about? I looked at that Havoline UOA and one of the metals -- Zinc -- was up in the 1000ppm range!

Low wear metals ... yeah, right.
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Don... I know your post is tongue in cheek, but just for the benefit of newcomers...

ZINC IS YOUR FRIEND. ZINC IS GOOD. LOTS OF ZINC IS BETTER!

:)

Dan
 
Pablo, thanks for diggin' them up. I needed an extra cup of coffee reading those.....
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If it didn't cost much, I'd UOA the Screaming Eagle in it when I drain. I'll UOA the Amsoil this Fall - looks like we really need it here...........
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It's odd - I think maybe the average Harley guy that buys Amsoil doesn't do a UOA
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But I do sell a lot of MCV 20W-50 to Harley folks locally. I mean a lot. Maybe I'll start mentioning UOA's more often.

Those two aren't too old.
 
I think a lot people don't know UOA's are out there to be done.....

I'll do mine for sure.
 
Originally Posted By: tpitcher
I think a lot people don't know UOA's are out there to be done.....

I'll do mine for sure.


Do a run of Amsoil and then a run of the Halvoline and do UOAs on both.

That way we know what is up!
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Same OCI, same engine! More data for the board.

Been there done that!
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Thanks, but no thanks. Nuttin' but Motorcycle oil in 'er and someone would have to pay me not to put in Amsoil.

Nice try though...
 
Originally Posted By: fuel tanker man
I go away for a few weeks and you've all forgotten what you'd learned!

Shame!!

Use Havoline 20W50. No UOA on the board has beaten these to date, synthetics included...

You say you're looking for the best oil, so what you've got to do is produce a UOA that beats the Havoline 20W50 in a Harley engine.


I did some simple math on your UOA and the last one that Pablo posted.
Havoline Amsoil
Iron .00292 .00009
Alum. .00125 .00010
Chrom. .00041 .00000

These numbers are PPM per mile.
I realize these are 2 totally different engines but they are indeed Harley engines as you requested.
 
Originally Posted By: tpitcher
I think a lot people don't know UOA's are out there to be done ... I'll do mine for sure.

Originally Posted By: tpitcher
Thanks, but no thanks. Nuttin' but Motorcycle oil in 'er and someone would have to pay me not to put in Amsoil.

I have a question -- and I'm very sincere about this -- why would you do a UOA if you're so settled on Amsoil as the oil for your bike? Let's say the UOA comes back less than desirable ... are you prepared to switch off of Amsoil?

UOAs *maybe* for the purpose of determining a OCI. But based on your comments so far, I'm going to guess you'll be swapping the oil out fairly frequently (as do I).

Just to see what the numbers are? Well ... that's fair ... I've done the same. Is that your motivation?
 
Originally Posted By: TucsonDon
Originally Posted By: tpitcher
I think a lot people don't know UOA's are out there to be done ... I'll do mine for sure.

Originally Posted By: tpitcher
Thanks, but no thanks. Nuttin' but Motorcycle oil in 'er and someone would have to pay me not to put in Amsoil.

I have a question -- and I'm very sincere about this -- why would you do a UOA if you're so settled on Amsoil as the oil for your bike? Let's say the UOA comes back less than desirable ... are you prepared to switch off of Amsoil?

UOAs *maybe* for the purpose of determining a OCI. But based on your comments so far, I'm going to guess you'll be swapping the oil out fairly frequently (as do I).

Just to see what the numbers are? Well ... that's fair ... I've done the same. Is that your motivation?


I think your question is very valid and illustrates why I probably won't do any more UOAs on my Harley. I've settled on Penn Grade 1 oil and will be changing it once a year, which will be about 3000 miles.
 
Yea, I do want a baseline for the bike. Would probably not do another for quite a while. Good question.
 
Hey - I got the Harley yesterday!!!
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Had to clean it up a bit, but we're bonded now...
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Took it for a 1 mile putt-putt (no license plate yet, just the neighborhood...)

OIL - I have the paperwork - It was drained at 885 miles on 8/21/07. So, it has 600 miles on it. It will be changed Monday. It's a nice weekend coming up, so I bet 200 miles will go on her...
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Oil Filter - It looks the paperwork shows a "Chrome Superp" whatever that filter is...
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Race Tuner & Pipes (both Screaming Eagle) & Dyno - I have the graph, it is putting out 75HP & 89 ft-lbs Torque.
 
Originally Posted By: hd2002
Originally Posted By: fuel tanker man
I go away for a few weeks and you've all forgotten what you'd learned!

Shame!!

Use Havoline 20W50. No UOA on the board has beaten these to date, synthetics included...

You say you're looking for the best oil, so what you've got to do is produce a UOA that beats the Havoline 20W50 in a Harley engine.


I did some simple math on your UOA and the last one that Pablo posted.
Havoline Amsoil
Iron .00292 .00009
Alum. .00125 .00010
Chrom. .00041 .00000

These numbers are PPM per mile.
I realize these are 2 totally different engines but they are indeed Harley engines as you requested.


Check the copper... copper and lead are bearing wear. Bad juju.
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Originally Posted By: fuel tanker man

Check the copper... copper and lead are bearing wear. Bad juju.
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Copper is from the oil cooler.

Lead is not bad for 6500 miles. And of course Fe, Al and Cr blow you out of the water.
 
Fuel tanker...
I truly am curious how much lead is used in the bearings of these engines. In the crankshaft you have a pressed in crank pin with brass (or some variation thereof) connecting rod bushings. Are the roller bearings in the engine cases or the cam bearings high in lead content? The cams are hardened steel off some type, I would assume...same with the piston wrist pins. The cam plate bushings are brass, the oil pump is aluminum body with some type of hardened feed and return gerotors, the cam chains are ??, The cylinders are iron liners in aluminum cylinders, piston rings are some type of moly coated Ni/Cr (I assume), pistons are cast aluminum with a moly coating on the skirts.

I am quite familiar with the internals of these but dont know all the metals of all of the components. Anyone else care to chime in? It's easy for me to see where the copper content in the UOA's would come from but not the lead.
 
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Check the copper... copper and lead are bearing wear. Bad juju.
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I did check all wear metals. 1 for Havoline, 1 for oil coiler and 3 for Amsoil. Again, these are 2 totally different engines, different riding styles, I pulled a trailer for alot of those miles. This isn't what I would call apples to apples but you asked for it. How much more proof is needed? This isn't "ROCKET SCIENCE" just simple math.
 
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