Best rustproofing options for a new vehicle?

[supton]

I think it is LeakySeals on here that brought up RP-342, which is basically cosmoline in a can. I've decided to try that for now. Fluid Film isn't bad, but it isn't great. I found I had to respray in the middle of winter--but I drive a lot, so maybe I'm not a good datapoint (500 miles a week). Maybe a layer of that, with FF touchups? not sure. Current crop of cars I don't think I'll take past 10 years anyhow, so I don't want to think too much about it.

 

[zzyzzx]

It’s not the amount of snow, it’s the amount of salt.

At least last year the number of times they salted the roads vs several times the number of times we actually got any snow or ice.

 

[Exhaustgases]

Spraying any oil no matter what it is, over rust, will not stop it. Only spraying a rust converter will do that.

 

[Jim74]

What the S.Main auto channel thinks is meaningless and that is why I would never go back for re-applications. Those applications do more harm than good.

I live in the rust belt. I have two 87's and a 2003. I am convinced they would have been junked long ago if they were not Ziebarted.

Ziebart ruined the frame of my Silverado with just one application of that black tar nonsense. All it does is trap moisture and cause more rust, and I fell for their marketing crap. I can't believe you recommend this garbage product when you even say that "Those applications do more harm than good". Ziebart will even tell you to come back every year for a re-application.

 

[Bluestream]

You should watch South Main Auto channel, he wont even work on cars that have ziebart applied and he shows cars that have been ziebarted and and how it hides the rust damage and causes more harm than good.

Ziebart will make the car rust even faster. Non-drip oil spray is the way to go

 

[vavavroom]

The only place I see develop surface rust anymore are subframes, control arms, and some fasteners on the undercarriage. The rust usually occurs along the edges of the component. On a new car, removing the rust-probe components and having them painted with a marine grade epoxy paint may be worth it.

I apply spray wax strategically to rustprone areas and over fastener heads. I also apply spray wax to the inside door/hood/trunk edges. I don't see any weld seams that didn't have seam sealer applied from the factory. Underbodies are generally coated with a plastic coating that completely prevents rust unless the coating gets damaged if you bottom out. Rust hasn't been a problem even close to the ocean with salty deposits after parking and with a rainy season that lasts months.

 

[Rand]

Rust hasn't been a problem even close to the ocean with salty deposits after parking and with a rainy season that lasts months.

That has nothing on the salt and road brine they use here.

Or the fracking brine...

The only place I see develop surface rust anymore are subframes, control arms, and some fasteners on the undercarriage.

You apparently live in CA or something.....

 

[vavavroom]

That has nothing on the salt and road brine they use here.

Or the fracking brine...


You apparently live in CA or something.....

There's that. However, unprotected vehicles will rust if they are kept near the ocean. Even a mile inland the air is salty enough to rust non-stainless inside your house.

A spray wax undercoating in the fall and cleaning it off after the salty season should help even in the rust belt.

 

[Rand]

There's that. However, unprotected vehicles will rust if they are kept near the ocean. Even a mile inland the air is salty enough to rust non-stainless inside your house.

A spray wax undercoating in the fall and cleaning it off after the salty season should help even in the rust belt.

Do they rust like this yeah the door skin is gone. Ie you are looking inside the door

 

[vavavroom]

Do they rust like this yeah the door skin is gone. Ie you are looking inside the door
View attachment 186068

I don't see much rust there.