I'm in a cold enough place that road salt is an issue. Since I retired I don't drive nearly as much, so rust is likely going to be the killer of my next car rather than mechanical wear. What are the best options for rust proofing?
Best rustproofing options for a new vehicle?
- Thread starter Elkins45
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I know you can get Bilt Hamber products in the US now. They really are top-tier and come from a manufacturer that specialises in coatings in marine environments.
Bilt Hamber Dynax UC is totally clear and leaves a thin waxy coating where applied.
Bilt Hamber Dynax UB is the same as above but dyed black.
Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 is a much thinner product that is designed for voids and cavities. Comes with an excellent spray can that can be used in any orientation with a long lance that vaporises the product really well.
In theory and application should last 5 years. May require top ups in some of the harder hit environments like the wheel arches.
I also use a product called Lanogaurd which is very similar to Woolwax but requires application every year.
Bilt Hamber Dynax UC is totally clear and leaves a thin waxy coating where applied.
Bilt Hamber Dynax UB is the same as above but dyed black.
Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 is a much thinner product that is designed for voids and cavities. Comes with an excellent spray can that can be used in any orientation with a long lance that vaporises the product really well.
In theory and application should last 5 years. May require top ups in some of the harder hit environments like the wheel arches.
I also use a product called Lanogaurd which is very similar to Woolwax but requires application every year.
For a NEW vehicle you plan to keep a long time which is very clean underneath, I would use a traditional rust proofer like Ziebart but would not go back for the periodic re-applications. I believe the re-applications do more harm than good.
The product once applied, is also an excellent sound deadener.
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My experience is oil sprays will wash off the exposed surfaces, which is why it needs to be reapplied. Vehicles that get sprayed several years in a row for the first few years (like my father in law's work vans) can then get neglected for multiple years after the last undercoating before it starts to inevitably rust out where the product has long ago washed away.
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Woolwax applied to the undercarriage and body/frame internal cavities once a year.
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Another recommendation is something like weather tech floor mats. Otherwise you could be in my situation where I didn't want to spend the $ on them yet and the drivers floor area spends all winter soaking wet underneath the carpet and rusts out. The rest of the frame and floor looks like new but now I have to deal with this one area of rust.
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I spray Corrosion X in all the door seams, hood, trunk and every weld seam. Then use Corrosion X, MaxWax as a second application. The first product is very thin and seeps into tight areas, the second is thicker and turns waxy. The combo is epic good.
Is moving an option?
Just drive a beater on the days the roads are wet and salty and keep the nice cars at home. Just how many snowfalls are there in Kentucky anyway these days?
I pulled the sill plates on my last 2 trucks and sprayed this area with fluid film. I have worked on a lot of trucks with similar corrosion from the snow and salt mess that comes from living in the North. On my personal vehicles I use good mats and will often throw towels down to soak up the water if I am in and out of the truck a lot. I have seen a couple that were rusty like that because the trucks were repainted when new (service vehicles) and the door gaskets were damaged or not reapplied correctly and leaked down the "A" post and into the trench.
That's why I suggested Ziebart. They don't spray oil on it. It's like a black tar like coating.
You should watch South Main Auto channel, he wont even work on cars that have ziebart applied and he shows cars that have been ziebarted and and how it hides the rust damage and causes more harm than good.
What the S.Main auto channel thinks is meaningless and that is why I would never go back for re-applications. Those applications do more harm than good.
I live in the rust belt. I have two 87's and a 2003. I am convinced they would have been junked long ago if they were not Ziebarted.
How did your Ziebart coating cure? Is it still soft or has it hardened up.
From what I read, they have several products and changed formulas over the years.
The one in the South Main Auto video, looked like it was pretty hard, forming almost like a hard mold around the body parts, that’s bad, very bad.
I would give Noxudol a hard look. When Toyota had the frame rot issues Noxudol was spec'd by them to prevent further corrosion.
www.noxudolusa.com
Rust Proofing Car | Car Rust Protection | Rust Proofing Spray
Noxudol is a superior line of undercoatings and rust proofing car and spray products. We offer application centers across the U.S.
www.noxudolusa.com
One of my old Novas had been Ziebarted back in the 70s with their old-formula black tar stuff. It had hardened and would either a) flake off revealing the horribly rusted steel behind it, or b) the steel would rust away completely leaving just the tar substance remaining. It was totally worthless as a rust preventative.
I have our two daily drivers Krowned every year in last summer/early fall. Undersides are still rust-free.
yep. It's more of a moisture trap than rust prevention.
