Best 20K oil

Found this chart
 

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18k mile, or 30k km intervals have been the norm for over 10 years in Europe with several manufacturers.

With that being said i find it hard to even go 6k or 10k kms on a full synthetic A3/B4 oil 😅
 
You're essentially buying more time when using an oil built for extended drain intervals. For wear, we know that the additive systems used in today's oils greatly exceed industry standard tests, with the top tier greatly exceeding them. What you'll get with an oil built for long drains is greater cleanliness, lower oxidation, lower volatility over a longer drain interval.
When I crunch the numbers, the cost savings is about $12 over 30k miles.

This is comparing my selected boutique motor in my circumstances, to the rock bottom priced Valvoline Synthetic Blend 5W20 @ $11 per 5 quart jug, in a bad fuel diluter.

I concur with you, buster, on the benefits of a highest quality oil over a long OCI.
 
Only own one that’s not GDI … it holds 5 quarts and I put 20k on it in 2.6 years … Fair amount off-road …
Only own 1 not under warranty …
So no slam dunks for long OCI …
 
I bought about 90 vehicles for this rideshare company that was run by two former consultants in the IT world.

One of them asked me several times about using a 20k oil. I told him it was a terrible idea and that late model Kia/Hyundai engines, which were the bulk of their fleet, were highly susceptible to long OCIs.

Guess who thought he knew more than the guy who makes these types of decisions for a living? The guy was a lazy arrogant idiot who always went for the cheapskate solutions.

Whenever I hear about some company in the auto industry making a claim that goes against the engineer's recommendations, I think about that guy.
 
I bought about 90 vehicles for this rideshare company that was run by two former consultants in the IT world.

One of them asked me several times about using a 20k oil. I told him it was a terrible idea and that late model Kia/Hyundai engines, which were the bulk of their fleet, were highly susceptible to long OCIs.

Guess who thought he knew more than the guy who makes these types of decisions for a living? The guy was a lazy arrogant idiot who always went for the cheapskate solutions.

Whenever I hear about some company in the auto industry making a claim that goes against the engineer's recommendations, I think about that guy.
So what was the most economical OCI?

My money is on no one actually found out.
 
So what was the most economical OCI?

My money is on no one actually found out.
It's to RTFM and work with those recommendations. The automakers hire an army of well educated engineers who happen to have developed the engines you find in your car.

They built it. Follow their recommendations.
 
It's to RTFM and work with those recommendations. The automakers hire an army of well educated engineers who happen to have developed the engines you find in your car.

They built it. Follow their recommendations.
Toyota, MB, Honda, VW, etc engineers should be taken to the woodshed for some of their recommendations over the years.

So a fleet - did you get a special warranty or just assume you were covered by the generic warranty?

I can assure you, with a fleet of 90 vehicles, starting in good working order, there is a most logical OCI for ALL the fluids.
 
Toyota, MB, Honda, VW, etc engineers should be taken to the woodshed for some of their recommendations over the years.
I agree that it's not as simple as reading the manual, because some of these recommends have gone sideways due to unforseen complications. Variable cylinder management engines often times cannot go the recommended OCI without creating tons of varnish and carbon. BMW had extended and then dialed back their lengthy OCI recommendations years ago.

And then there's the other issue of manuals for certain countries offering different recommended oils for the same ambient temps, so there's a question of fuel efficiency being promoted over engine longevity.

When it comes to oil, in my opinion the owners manual is a good baseline, but it shouldn't necessarily be followed blindly.
 
I bought about 90 vehicles for this rideshare company that was run by two former consultants in the IT world.

One of them asked me several times about using a 20k oil. I told him it was a terrible idea and that late model Kia/Hyundai engines, which were the bulk of their fleet, were highly susceptible to long OCIs.

Guess who thought he knew more than the guy who makes these types of decisions for a living? The guy was a lazy arrogant idiot who always went for the cheapskate solutions.

Whenever I hear about some company in the auto industry making a claim that goes against the engineer's recommendations, I think about that guy.
Were these the same Hyundai/KIA engines that had a propensity for sudden catastrophic failure?
 
It's to RTFM and work with those recommendations. The automakers hire an army of well educated engineers who happen to have developed the engines you find in your car.

They built it. Follow their recommendations.
Those engineers aren't given free reign to simply do their best though. They are constrained by cost, fuel economy targets, maintenance interval targets...etc. Before CAFE, we used to have ranges of viscosities in owner's manuals (and some parts of the world still do), now we have demands for specific grades, which are getting thinner and thinner as the last bit of fuel efficiency is eeked out of engine designs.

Look at DI, plagued with fuel dilution issues in most marques as well as IVD's, pursued due to again, fuel economy. Trying to make little engines act like big engines with boost brought us LSPI. Now we have multiple companies tacking port injection back onto their direct injection engines to try and reduce the occurrence and severity of these issues.

The accounting department ultimately has a significant impact on what the engineering department ends up producing. And of course sometimes engineers screw things up too, look at the Saturn and Toyota piston oil return hole debacle, Honda's VCM implementation, the FCA/Stellantis lifter failure problem (though this is more QC, bringing us back to the cost cutting/accounting), Ford's VCT on the 3V Modular, the 2V modular spark plug holes, the 3V modular plug and hole design, Honda's V6 Odyssey/Accord transmissions, The ZF 9spd transmission, Subaru head gaskets, the 6.0L Powerstroke (VT365), the 6.4L Powerstroke (Maxxforce 7), which somehow managed to be even worse. Examples are myriad because these folks aren't working with a NASA budget trying to put together the space shuttle, they are trying to meet deadlines and beat cost targets.
 
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With all the oil tests done with Blackstone, What is the final conclusion on the best 20 K oil?
Personally, the kind that stays on the shelf or the kind that gets changed at 10 miles. Call me old but 20k scares me, especially without a filter swap.
 
I bought about 90 vehicles for this rideshare company that was run by two former consultants in the IT world.

One of them asked me several times about using a 20k oil. I told him it was a terrible idea and that late model Kia/Hyundai engines, which were the bulk of their fleet, were highly susceptible to long OCIs.

Guess who thought he knew more than the guy who makes these types of decisions for a living? The guy was a lazy arrogant idiot who always went for the cheapskate solutions.

Whenever I hear about some company in the auto industry making a claim that goes against the engineer's recommendations, I think about that guy.
If that were the case here I'd think twice as well. But it isn't the same, here you are getting some fairly technical reasoning backed by physical facts. I don't see a lot of "lazy arrogant" idiots giving "cheapskate solutions" in this thread.
 
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N3n
You came to the right place for this OCI question
There are more knowledgeable people on this forum than I can count.
"Without Data you're just another person with an opinion" W.E. Deming
I just finished my 2nd UOA on a 2016 F-150 Ecoboost with Amsoil SS 5w-30
The 1st uoa was 5k miles (plenty of life in the Oil, TBN was 4.22)
I skipped 7500 miles because I saw someone on this site doing it.
The 2nd uoa I did at 10k miles, the Oil still looked pretty good. The TBN was 2.80
The next OCI will be for 12,500 miles, and should be completed later this year. I don't anticipate going past 12,500 miles, as I think the TBN will be approx 2.0
It's no secret that these Turbo Engines are hard on Oil. High heat, and the fuel dilution shears the Oil out of Grade.
N3n
Best of luck to you as you look to stretch your oci, but be aware of the limitations of any Synthetic Oil in these Ecoboost Motors.
how did the 12.5 oil look thanks for the responce
 
The correct answer has got to be High Performance Lubricants, in your appropriate grade and formula.
For me the TBN was at 8.6 after 20,000 miles !!!
End thread.
2022 Corolla Cross
HPL PP 0W8
109k Miles
30k mi OCI
I cannot find any mention on HPL's website where the 0w8 oil meets or exceeds any standards.
How did you go about trusting the 0w8 to last 30k miles?

Your 30k UOA should be on a wall at HPL, for your outstanding courage to risk what essentially was an engine that has barely achieved college age, in it's performance lifetime and done so - at a risk of using the thinnest everyday passenger motor oil on earth.
Bravo to your Sir!..... my hat's off to you.

I am looking at similar non-existing Meets & Exceeds for 0w30 at the purchase website, unless I buy the Euro Passenger Vehicle Oil and I believe the Standard for it is the dated SL.

So should I purchase anything on Cyber Monday, it's probably the upper-level Performce Plus (like your choice), but in 5w30. I'm not risking anything on our subpar HyunKia engines. Call me Chicken if you like.... I can take it...lol
 
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I cannot find any mention on HPL's website where the 0w8 oil meets or exceeds any standards.
How did you go about trusting the 0w8 to last 30k miles?

Your 30k UOA should be on a wall at HPL, for your outstanding courage to risk what essentially was an engine that has barely achieved college age, in it's performance lifetime and done so - at a risk of using the thinnest everyday passenger motor oil on earth.
Bravo to your Sir!..... my hat's off to you.

I am looking at similar non-existing Meets & Exceeds for 0w30 at the purchase website, unless I buy the Euro Passenger Vehicle Oil and I believe the Standard for it is the dated SL.

So should I purchase anything on Cyber Monday, it's probably the upper-level Performce Plus (like your choice), but in 5w30. I'm not risking anything on our subpar HyunKia engines. Call me Chicken if you like.... I can take it...lol
The Euro (504/507) 5w30 states SN, the 0w30 does not state a US approval. It’s the SuperCar and No VII (502/505) that’s says SL.

All of their oils are great. It’s a bit overwhelming imo.
 
I need SN Plus minimum, but prefer SP.
ILSAC & Dexos for my usual short mileage OCI victory spin!!!

This HPL stuff is too impressive (in Additive numbers and multiple quality Base Oils), to delve further into more purchases with Amsoil - which first impressions of Amsoil Euro EOT 0w30 are not ear-pleasing.
My wife's Kia Soul 2.0 still sounds like a sewing machine in the side driveway and an old Royal typewriter on the more open front driveway.

I still have a couple more OCIs of the Amsoil, that I will try next on my Hyundai 2.4 GDI engine, which so far, runs / sounds nice & quiet at 35k with Mobil-1 EP T/A. Why I even moved away from that Triple Action oil Gem, is beyond me. It's the best darn oil out there for $29 five quart jug.
 
I cannot find any mention on HPL's website where the 0w8 oil meets or exceeds any standards.
How did you go about trusting the 0w8 to last 30k miles?

Your 30k UOA should be on a wall at HPL, for your outstanding courage to risk what essentially was an engine that has barely achieved college age, in it's performance lifetime and done so - at a risk of using the thinnest everyday passenger motor oil on earth.
Bravo to your Sir!..... my hat's off to you.

I am looking at similar non-existing Meets & Exceeds for 0w30 at the purchase website, unless I buy the Euro Passenger Vehicle Oil and I believe the Standard for it is the dated SL.

So should I purchase anything on Cyber Monday, it's probably the upper-level Performce Plus (like your choice), but in 5w30. I'm not risking anything on our subpar HyunKia engines. Call me Chicken if you like.... I can take it...lol
109k on a 2022 means the vehicle is driving almost non stop. So it could be similar to my wife's 5k on her Sonata. Still impressive and if I was driving that much I would want to go with an oil I could comfortably extend the oil changes (not 30k personally but everyone has their own comfort levels).
 
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