Backwards remote full flow ramifications

[RJCorazza]

I installed a remote full flow trans filter > sandwich plate (permacool 181) > MotorGuard TP bypass filter backwards accidentally as follows :
The return line from the cooler was plumbed to the "OUT" port on the remote full flow filter. The "IN" on the remote filter was plumbed to the transmission return port on the transmission.

I ran it this way for 50 miles, both filters heated up with no leaks. It is now plumbed with the "OUT" port on the remote filter going to the transmission return port on the tranny.

What are the ramifications of my mistake, and how would the fluid have flowed?

 

[SWHeat]

There must not be an ADV on your remote filter. Or at least, one that worked enough to block the hot ATF. Did you change out the full flow filter as it had fluid running through it backwards? The motorguard could care less if you filter top to bottom or bottom to the top.

How did the tranny shift initally? After the initial install and when cold.

I would think as long as you had flow, you were OK.

 

[Gary Allan]

Yes, change out the full flow. It should be damaged assuming it had an ADBV. AFT cooling lines are typically low pressure lines ..but that's only because there's nothing to build up any pressure.

 

[RJCorazza]

Thanks for the replies. The transmission was shifting fine while the connections were reversed.
I switched the lines back & changed out the full flow filter, now the sandwich plate (?) is making a buzzing sound. I can hear it from the cab with the filter mounted on the frame about mid-ship. Any ideas? The Motorguard has the restriction orifice removed, which is my understanding the correct configuration when taking & returning fluid to a sandwich plate.
I have several motor oil bypass filters off sandwich plates and they don't make any noise.

 

[Gary Allan]

You need to drill a VERY VERY VERY small hole in the Permacool.

Repeat VERY small hole. What you hear is the relief valve hammering open and closed.

The reason I'm being so redundant is that the last guy I told that too didn't listen and went too big. He then had to tap and plug and redrill.

Just grab your smallest drill bit. If the buzz is still there ..drill another very small hole ..don't go to a bigger drill bit.

 

[Gary Allan]

You are not alone!!! There's another one that I couldn't find in the search ..it was a bit funnier.

 

[RJCorazza]

Where do I drill the Permacool?
Is the relief valve opening / closing as it is now a bad thing, or just a nuisance from the noise?

I am mechanically inclined, but for whatever reason I don't seem to be able to really understand the sandwich plate's operation. If you could give a specific drilling location I would feel more comfortable.
Thank you for your help!

 

[Gary Allan]

It doesn't really matter. Either the raised or recess (depending on how you're look at it) will do. Just drill a hole on one of them casting jammers you see there (jammer=newer urban dielect depicting a "thing"). It can be right next to the port ...90 out 180 out ..whatever.

I don't interpret the buzzing as a "bad thing" for anything other then your ears and perhaps the spring on the poppet valve. It's not designed to modulate at that frequency ...or at least I can't see the designers putting that much thought into the spring's integrity ..as in some MTBF analysis.

Look here @ 12 and 6 o'clock. That's where I had to tap and plug my own screwups. See all them little casting points?? Just do it anywhere you please.

 

[RJCorazza]

I drilled a 5/64ths hole and the buzz has stopped. The MotorGuard is still flowing, so I'm happy.
Thanks for everyone's assistance.

 

[Gary Allan]