Same R145 diff as nissan rogue / xtrail, dacia duster, ... but I am understanding that it can come in many configurations: electric or hydraulic coupling, gear ratio, ... gotta find the same variant I guess.
R145
#3B
R145
#3B
AWD: driving with bad rear diff in 2WD (FW) mode ?
- Thread starter Superflan
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I might try a full 2wd conversion (removing propeller shaft and halfshafts IF it’s possible regarding the rear hubs) if it doesn’t throw limp mode (I’d bear with errors), while waiting the unit to be repaired.
I just found this thread. Unless I'm missing something, that does not look like all that much metal. I suspect that's actually normal. Unless there are actually big chunks.
I suspect you have a bad bearing or two. Can you simply pull the diff and replace the bearing?
I suspect you have a bad bearing or two. Can you simply pull the diff and replace the bearing?
I’d do it like that IF I can run the car without the diff (and shafts) in place.
I think that there’s more than bearings shot because of wheels locking when in auto mode, meaning to me either contiguous teeth missing on sprockets, or big chunks of metal going between them as they rotate.
Yes, there was, added to the enormous to me (equivalent of 2 play dices), chunks up to 5 millimeters size.
I drained it a second time and there was as much metal as the first drain, on the magnet, and in oil.
I think that there’s more than bearings shot because of wheels locking when in auto mode, meaning to me either contiguous teeth missing on sprockets, or big chunks of metal going between them as they rotate.
Yes, there was, added to the enormous to me (equivalent of 2 play dices), chunks up to 5 millimeters size.
I drained it a second time and there was as much metal as the first drain, on the magnet, and in oil.
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Originally Posted By: Superflan
I’d do it like that IF I can run the car without the diff (and shafts) in place.
I think that there’s more than bearings shot because of wheels locking when in auto mode, meaning to me either contiguous teeth missing on sprockets, or big chunks of metal going between them as they rotate.
Yes, there was, added to the enormous to me (equivalent of 2 play dices), chunks up to 5 millimeters size.
I drained it a second time and there was as much metal as the first drain, on the magnet, and in oil.
Well, pull the half shafts and the diff. See how it drives in 2 wheel drive mode. Probably just fine.
With my car, it's full time AWD and has a viscous center differential that puts 70% of the torque to the rear. Those that have tried to drive with the rear driveshaft removed have not been successful.
Maybe your car is FWD only in 2wd mode?
I’d do it like that IF I can run the car without the diff (and shafts) in place.
I think that there’s more than bearings shot because of wheels locking when in auto mode, meaning to me either contiguous teeth missing on sprockets, or big chunks of metal going between them as they rotate.
Yes, there was, added to the enormous to me (equivalent of 2 play dices), chunks up to 5 millimeters size.
I drained it a second time and there was as much metal as the first drain, on the magnet, and in oil.
Well, pull the half shafts and the diff. See how it drives in 2 wheel drive mode. Probably just fine.
With my car, it's full time AWD and has a viscous center differential that puts 70% of the torque to the rear. Those that have tried to drive with the rear driveshaft removed have not been successful.
Maybe your car is FWD only in 2wd mode?
On this car, it’s marketed as full time AWD. In fact, it’s 50/50 from start up to some mph (10?), then 100% FWD unless in some bends where it’s 70/30, and if the sensors detect slippage it dynamically assign more or less power to rear axle.
The front/rear diff is electrically fed and can take any setting from 0 to 100% lock.
For the 4WD LOCK mode, i think there’s some locking device also electrically controlled to bind rear axles togethet.
Back to the diff removal, I’m wondering if i need some replacements part for spigots after dropping the shafts (seems so)
The front/rear diff is electrically fed and can take any setting from 0 to 100% lock.
For the 4WD LOCK mode, i think there’s some locking device also electrically controlled to bind rear axles togethet.
Back to the diff removal, I’m wondering if i need some replacements part for spigots after dropping the shafts (seems so)
Originally Posted By: eljefino
You might need the half-axles in the wheel bearings to hold them all together. Don't go yanking them willy-nilly without knowing how this works.
Indeed. I’ll look at parts diagrams for 2wd vs 4wd to understand what it’s all about on this vehicle
You might need the half-axles in the wheel bearings to hold them all together. Don't go yanking them willy-nilly without knowing how this works.
Indeed. I’ll look at parts diagrams for 2wd vs 4wd to understand what it’s all about on this vehicle
No matter what you decide to do, please post a follow up. TIA
Maintain phone contact in case of breakdown. You probably do anyway. Merry Christmas
Maintain phone contact in case of breakdown. You probably do anyway. Merry Christmas
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Originally Posted By: andyd
No matter what you decide to do, please post a follow up. TIA
Maintain phone contact in case of breakdown. You probably do anyway. Merry Christmas
Thanks for caring. Today, something hit the AWD mode button while my wife was driving and this happened :
Ironically, it's a case of breakdown : the breakdown of the case...
No matter what you decide to do, please post a follow up. TIA
Maintain phone contact in case of breakdown. You probably do anyway. Merry Christmas
Thanks for caring. Today, something hit the AWD mode button while my wife was driving and this happened :
Ironically, it's a case of breakdown : the breakdown of the case...
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That's ugly and not something you wanted to see I'm sure. Blessings and best of luck making necessary repairs.
Update: I was having problems trying to remove all the parts by myself without much tools, I finally found a 4wd specialist mechanic that will do the conversion for me on Saturday. I’ll keep you updated
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