Originally Posted By: Trav
Moog are very old school built parts, in this case old school doesn't equal better. Zerk fittings are long gone and rightfully so, they are not as effective at prolonging joint life as properly sealed boots and modern composite ball seats. Most Euro and Asian cars haven't used zerks in over 3 decades and many of them are still on the road with the original joints.
But that aside the problem with newer Moog joints is the boots, they tried to make a tighter boot but they are rarely properly seated and many times nicked right out of the box, they are installed and fail when greasing. If using zerks a simple push over boot is still the best.
Moog didn't use the common and proven reliable split spiral ring on the boots they decided an internal non split undersized ring was better. It doesn't work well, the installation machine often cuts/nicks them or doesn't get them on tight, trying to get one on at home is dam near impossible.
When buying Moog parts buy local and check the boots super carefully, any nicks or slight cuts even if they don't go all the way through, refuse the part that kind of puts buying from Rock a no go.
I have seen so models with a 50% damage rate, stuff that doesn't use a boot like inner tie rods are fine.
I did a moog front end on the MGM, entire steering linkage, was very disappointed with the tie rods. The tops were very poor fitting, $5 tie rods had tighter boots. When I did the continental(taurus ball joint) I put a poly ball joint cover over it. It looked very delicate. Not greaseable due to the position. I also have moog BJs on the MGM and grease ends up on the rotor, despite the "vent" on the other side. The Explorer Moog ball joints look like they are going to pop one day, they seem very thin. After 8 years the MOOG UCAs on the T-bird have torn boots
. Not worth the bother to warranty at this point.