I run Mobil 1 HM 10w-30. It's almost a monograde
Any Members Running Monograde At The Moment?
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That UOA was where I learned Valvoline made a detergent 20W-20. I've seen Kendall and Castrol non detergent 20W-20's, but up until I discovered that post I had no idea anyone made a modern detergent 20W-20.
Why isn't it more popular? 30 and 40wt are still relatively common grades, but you never see 20wt.
Why isn't it more popular? 30 and 40wt are still relatively common grades, but you never see 20wt.
Originally Posted By: userfriendly
I'll post when they all blow up or squeak to a stop.
Laugh !!
I'm not holding my breath waiting for that to happen.
I'll post when they all blow up or squeak to a stop.
Laugh !!
I'm not holding my breath waiting for that to happen.
(Long time lurker here)
Recently dumped Valvoline VR1 SAE 40 into a liquid cooled wet clutch shared sump motorcycle (Yamaha FZ-09, 847cc 11K rpm inline-3). It was on sale on Amazon for about $5/qt a while back so I pulled the trigger.
600 miles on the oil so far and it's working fine despite Valvoline's warnings about this not being appropriate for wet clutch applications. If anything, the gearbox seems to be shifting even better than my previous fill of Valvoline 10W-40 Synthetic motorcycle oil - go figure. Who knows, maybe the clutch will explode in another 100 miles on VR1....
I was curious about the HTHS viscosity for this oil, so I reached out to Valvoline about it as they were forthcoming with the information when it came to their motorcycle oils (4.2 for 10W-40 and 5.1 for 20W-50). Emailed them 2 or 3 times and chatted with them once. They never responded to my emails but in chat they said that for VR1 SAE 40 the HTHS was 3.1. Which I thought surely had to be a mistake since doesn't SAE J300 require a minimum HTHSV of 3.7 for a monograde 40? 3.1 is more like the HTHS of a 30. Anyway they said that 3.1 was the 'data they had' so I wasn't going to waste my time arguing. I'd be surprised if that value were correct though. At some point I'll hit them up and ask again.
Curious to see how well this oil will hold up with more miles. I usually do 3-4K OCI's on non-synthetics.
Recently dumped Valvoline VR1 SAE 40 into a liquid cooled wet clutch shared sump motorcycle (Yamaha FZ-09, 847cc 11K rpm inline-3). It was on sale on Amazon for about $5/qt a while back so I pulled the trigger.
600 miles on the oil so far and it's working fine despite Valvoline's warnings about this not being appropriate for wet clutch applications. If anything, the gearbox seems to be shifting even better than my previous fill of Valvoline 10W-40 Synthetic motorcycle oil - go figure. Who knows, maybe the clutch will explode in another 100 miles on VR1....
I was curious about the HTHS viscosity for this oil, so I reached out to Valvoline about it as they were forthcoming with the information when it came to their motorcycle oils (4.2 for 10W-40 and 5.1 for 20W-50). Emailed them 2 or 3 times and chatted with them once. They never responded to my emails but in chat they said that for VR1 SAE 40 the HTHS was 3.1. Which I thought surely had to be a mistake since doesn't SAE J300 require a minimum HTHSV of 3.7 for a monograde 40? 3.1 is more like the HTHS of a 30. Anyway they said that 3.1 was the 'data they had' so I wasn't going to waste my time arguing. I'd be surprised if that value were correct though. At some point I'll hit them up and ask again.
Curious to see how well this oil will hold up with more miles. I usually do 3-4K OCI's on non-synthetics.
Welcome Jeff78 !!!
Yes I agree with you, that HTHS of 3.1 cP looks very low for a SAE40, something isn't matching up there.
I was reading about FM and wetclutches, some were saying it makes the clutch action a little smoother, as the plates don't suddenly grab but have a little give for a moment as the FM is swept off the plate surface. You just don't want too much FM so the plates slide for too long, probably related to power output too. No links, just something I read a few years ago, it made sense to me as I mostly ran PCMO's in my wetclutche bikes also without any issues.
Yes I agree with you, that HTHS of 3.1 cP looks very low for a SAE40, something isn't matching up there.
I was reading about FM and wetclutches, some were saying it makes the clutch action a little smoother, as the plates don't suddenly grab but have a little give for a moment as the FM is swept off the plate surface. You just don't want too much FM so the plates slide for too long, probably related to power output too. No links, just something I read a few years ago, it made sense to me as I mostly ran PCMO's in my wetclutche bikes also without any issues.
Originally Posted By: Red91
Not necessarily readily available, but I believe you can order Valvoline 20W-20 through Napa. Its a detergent oil, whereas the Kendall I've seen for sale is a non detergent.
Why is it a 20w-20 and not just a 20 wt?
Originally Posted By: Linctex
Originally Posted By: blupupher
If I had and engine spec'ed for xw-30 I would, but currently no, I do not.
Your 2002 Ford F150 5.4 with 188,000 would run on 30w and not complain a bit.
I don't want to have to worry about the timing chain tensioners. A xw-30 could contribute to the problem.
Not necessarily readily available, but I believe you can order Valvoline 20W-20 through Napa. Its a detergent oil, whereas the Kendall I've seen for sale is a non detergent.
Why is it a 20w-20 and not just a 20 wt?
Originally Posted By: Linctex
Originally Posted By: blupupher
If I had and engine spec'ed for xw-30 I would, but currently no, I do not.
Your 2002 Ford F150 5.4 with 188,000 would run on 30w and not complain a bit.
I don't want to have to worry about the timing chain tensioners. A xw-30 could contribute to the problem.
Running a diesel 30 in my old Moto Guzzi Stornello 160.
20w-20 means it meets the cold pumping specs for 20w and is an SAE 20 at operating temp. A mono SAE 20 might be a 30w rated when it's cold. Remember the w is not for weight. It's for winter.
Chevron shows SAE 20 Delo 400 www.chevron.ca www.chevron.com
Petro-Canada publishes their HTHS specs, SAE 40 Duron is >4.2.
www.lubricants.peto-canada.ca
Petro-Canada publishes their HTHS specs, SAE 40 Duron is >4.2.
www.lubricants.peto-canada.ca
Magic
I was making a point and felt it worked to illustrate the numbers represent two different measures. I should have used 10 or 15 I guess
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25W is a cold winter night in Florida
Yeah I can run any grade I can find at the store no problem. Cold cranking isn't a factor
I'm probably going to get several cases of Warren 30wt tomorrow for stock replenishment. I don't have any besides the outgoing Penngrade 1, and I like having some 30 on hand. Honestly I could just about replace all my stock with 30wt and no one would ever know the difference. My synthetic and my 15W-40 are barely moving at all, and dad's my most reliable customer.
I am having "Toyota CF40" (SAE 40) monograde engine oil in my Kia Sorento 2.5 crdi now. It used to run with 5w-30 semi synthetics for a long time and later 15w-40 minerals.
After years gone by and mileage now 189,000KM.... I found that now it runs much better with monograde.
The climate i am in is very hot and humid all year long (22 to 40 Celsius).
After years gone by and mileage now 189,000KM.... I found that now it runs much better with monograde.
The climate i am in is very hot and humid all year long (22 to 40 Celsius).
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Your first post.
Welcome JasonDotcom !!
Welcome JasonDotcom !!
Originally Posted By: userfriendly
Mobil 1330 in 2 hot cammed SBC's, 2013 Matrix, the lawnmower and a 2013 1500 GMC 5.3L. I usually run Duron SAE 40 in my 2011 Duramax in the summer.
I'm fairly certain my small engine guy put a monograde in my mower when he fixed the horrifically flooding carb. But, I'm not likely to be buying any monogrades for a subsequent change, given the stragglers I have on my shelf of PCMOs and so forth.
Mobil 1330 in 2 hot cammed SBC's, 2013 Matrix, the lawnmower and a 2013 1500 GMC 5.3L. I usually run Duron SAE 40 in my 2011 Duramax in the summer.
I'm fairly certain my small engine guy put a monograde in my mower when he fixed the horrifically flooding carb. But, I'm not likely to be buying any monogrades for a subsequent change, given the stragglers I have on my shelf of PCMOs and so forth.
Originally Posted By: JasonDotcom
I am having "Toyota CF40" (SAE 40) monograde engine oil in my Kia Sorento 2.5 crdi now. It used to run with 5w-30 semi synthetics for a long time and later 15w-40 minerals.
After years gone by and mileage now 189,000KM.... I found that now it runs much better with monograde.
The climate i am in is very hot and humid all year long (22 to 40 Celsius).
A 'Toyota CF40' and most other monogrades of 1989 era is technically inappropriate for an MY200x diesel engine sold in Malaysia.
I would've opted for multigrades in an HDEO CI4/CJ4 xW40 if not a PCMO SN/SM/SL A3B3/B4 xW40 widely available here.
I am having "Toyota CF40" (SAE 40) monograde engine oil in my Kia Sorento 2.5 crdi now. It used to run with 5w-30 semi synthetics for a long time and later 15w-40 minerals.
After years gone by and mileage now 189,000KM.... I found that now it runs much better with monograde.
The climate i am in is very hot and humid all year long (22 to 40 Celsius).
A 'Toyota CF40' and most other monogrades of 1989 era is technically inappropriate for an MY200x diesel engine sold in Malaysia.
I would've opted for multigrades in an HDEO CI4/CJ4 xW40 if not a PCMO SN/SM/SL A3B3/B4 xW40 widely available here.
Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010
20w-20 means it meets the cold pumping specs for 20w and is an SAE 20 at operating temp. A mono SAE 20 might be a 30w rated when it's cold. Remember the w is not for weight. It's for winter.
So a SAE 30 wt oil is a SAE 40 wt when cold? Why is it not called a 30w-30 if that is the case?
20w-20 means it meets the cold pumping specs for 20w and is an SAE 20 at operating temp. A mono SAE 20 might be a 30w rated when it's cold. Remember the w is not for weight. It's for winter.
So a SAE 30 wt oil is a SAE 40 wt when cold? Why is it not called a 30w-30 if that is the case?
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