Can someone explain ANSI Grade 1, Grade 2, Grade 3 security levels for dead bolts?
ANSI grade security levels for dead bolts?
- Thread starter Pablo
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JHZR2
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IMO get the weakest thing that is not super easy to get in through.
If people want in, theyll get in. Getting too much in their way only causes more damage to your stuff.
Wonderful state of assurance, isnt it?
JMH
If people want in, theyll get in. Getting too much in their way only causes more damage to your stuff.
Wonderful state of assurance, isnt it?
JMH
Yeah, but make 'em GO BACK OUT the window! That bulky item isn't going to look so good then. And maybe a neighbor or passerby will see them.
Yeah - residential (fire) door to garage has no lock. I want to just drill and screw...a dead bolt lock in. I see the range for sale, Grade 3 seems fine for home - grade 1 seems over priced and honestly all three would cause major breakage for the SWAT team to get in.
Forget just exhanging the current knob for a locking variety. Too many inadvertent "locked my naked a$$ out in the garage" events.....
I'm just gonna get the Grade 3 for reasons above. The design is fine, throw is long, pickability and jimmability low, cost is great and it's actually heavier than the very much more expensive Grade 1's.
Forget just exhanging the current knob for a locking variety. Too many inadvertent "locked my naked a$$ out in the garage" events.....
I'm just gonna get the Grade 3 for reasons above. The design is fine, throw is long, pickability and jimmability low, cost is great and it's actually heavier than the very much more expensive Grade 1's.
I wouldn't put too much confidence in a rating for a dead bolt, as what really matters is the 'weakest link'. I've looked at doors that friends had on places that they were moving into, commented that someone could easily shoulder the door open, and even before he was completely moved in that's what happened.
1. What kind of door is the deadbolt mounted in ? Some doors will hold up better than others to prying attempts or repeated blows. Common entry will be shoulder, hip, or low kicks.
2. How secure is the strike plate mounted ? Typically they seem to be mounted with 1 in to 1.5 in screws in some 'young growth' hemfir trim or some type of particle board. Several larger 3 in to 4 in wood screws into the framing will work better.
3. What kind of strike plate is used ? The larger four or more screw plates will work better than the small two screw plates. If you're really paranoid use a few feet of metal strip and screw it into the framing with large screws, or better yet bolt it to the framing with another steel strip on the inside to act as the large 'washer'. If you think the feds are trying to upset your brain waves by leaking signals thru the wall outlets then build your door frame out of steel.
A cousin was the 'entry' man in a SWAT team in the LA area, he's a big guy, and he said that only one door almost beat him. He had to hit it many times with the battering ram, but he did get in.
1. What kind of door is the deadbolt mounted in ? Some doors will hold up better than others to prying attempts or repeated blows. Common entry will be shoulder, hip, or low kicks.
2. How secure is the strike plate mounted ? Typically they seem to be mounted with 1 in to 1.5 in screws in some 'young growth' hemfir trim or some type of particle board. Several larger 3 in to 4 in wood screws into the framing will work better.
3. What kind of strike plate is used ? The larger four or more screw plates will work better than the small two screw plates. If you're really paranoid use a few feet of metal strip and screw it into the framing with large screws, or better yet bolt it to the framing with another steel strip on the inside to act as the large 'washer'. If you think the feds are trying to upset your brain waves by leaking signals thru the wall outlets then build your door frame out of steel.
A cousin was the 'entry' man in a SWAT team in the LA area, he's a big guy, and he said that only one door almost beat him. He had to hit it many times with the battering ram, but he did get in.
1st - The door is stout. The mounting is strong.
I will use long HD screws that go well into the stud.
BUt there are plenty of ground level windows and to break into and this door will require breaking into the garage first. The area is relatively crime free, so it's more of a feel good lock anyway. Honestly I think I would just break the glass by the front door and reach my hand in, if noise is no issue and if I was a burgler...
I will use long HD screws that go well into the stud.
BUt there are plenty of ground level windows and to break into and this door will require breaking into the garage first. The area is relatively crime free, so it's more of a feel good lock anyway. Honestly I think I would just break the glass by the front door and reach my hand in, if noise is no issue and if I was a burgler...
Did you just admit to being in your garage naked? That explains a lot...
I left the word "nearly" out
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Pablo, you got a loin cloth as backup when you run out of fresh laundry, too?
Loin cloth? Leather cod piece!
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