Another stuck ATF drain plug

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Originally Posted by bullwinkle
Might need an air impact-seems like it'll be less likely to round out that way.
Mandatory tool in the rust belt. IR231s are dirt cheap

It's acetone/atf time. If that doesn't work, nothing will.
 
They are usually very very tight. Find yourself a 2' long breaker bar (1/2" drive) and attach a 1/2 to 3/8" adapter- it WILL come off.
 
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Don't use a mallet, use a regular 2-3 lb hammer. Don't break the case, but you want to vibrate the threads.

Then put the long extension on. More leverage will increase counter-clockwise rotation forces while minimizing sideways shear forces. Just throw a pipe over your (blank), brace your feet somewhere, and pull slowly, straightly, cleanly until it pops free.

I got the fill and drain plugs out of my 05 prius for the first time ever, so you can do this too.
 
Originally Posted by Astro14
PB'Laster doesn't work as well as Liquid Wrench, or Kroil, in my experience.

Kroil is the absolute best, but hard to find, which is why I mention Liquid Wrench.

I threw out all my PB'Laster a few years ago. Good riddance.

If I knew what your drain plug looked like, that might help. When you say 3/8", is it a pipe plug (square depression in the plug)? Because, in that case, I would hit it with an impact wrench and a proper pipe plug socket. Like one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...sin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Would you be able to post a picture of it?

Oh, and when you do get it off, use a new seal/crush washer and don't overtorque it...






Kroll did not test out that good ....last place. PB Blaster was second to last place. Liquid Wrench won.


Test 1

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs

Test 2

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=st8dkGzJWtg

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I prefer tapping the breaker bar or ratchet arm with a metal 2-3 lb hammer. The force is more focused and it doesn't take near as much a swing. And you can apply it in incremental force while you other arm keeps the shaft straight into the plug. The hammer always seems to work better than my arms yanking or pushing on the wrench/breaker bar.

Sometimes the square adapter that fits into that plug might wobble a bit....and that takes up some of your force and applies it incorrectly. In those cases I get a thin piece of cloth or paper and layer it into the plug to increase the tightness. That's usually what gets it to work. Everything seated tight (no wobbles) with dead on perpendicular forces.
 
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OP:

I think this is your problem - the drain plug looks like one of those broad shouldered ones that has a o-ring underneath the shoulder of the bolt head. It's been my experience that these plugs can be very difficult to remove, even when they are torqued to spec.

WARNING - whatever you do, make sure you have the 3/8' socket/extension head inserted ALL THE WAY INTO the recess. I strongly suggest that you get the vehicle up high enough so that you can apply adequate and proper leverage. I agree with the previous poster who suggested 24 inch breaker bar. Do NOT use an impact driver!

And be prepared, when that plug loosens it will do so instantly. Don't smash you knuckles! And be careful you don't push the car off the jack stands!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

If the plug is a flat shouldered one like I think it is, when you re-tighten in, go easy. About 10 or 12 lb/ft MAX.

Good luck, be patient, don't strip the recess, and be safe.

Scott
 
Use an old Ratchet (I use an old Craftsman 36T only because I don't want to subject a high end tool to that sort of abuse) and give it a good sharp rap or as few with a dead blow hammer. The dead blow really puts the power where you need it.
 
I've dealt with tight Honda ATF plugs. Penetrating oil is useless. I slip the handle from my floor jack over a long 3/8'' ratchet and it pops the plug right off.

Also, if you have enough space down there, try taking the scissor jack from your trunk and raise it up on the ratchet, like a fulcrum.
 
I've used the weight of the car to help loosen tight plugs, put a jack (even the stock scissor jack) on the ratchet or breaker bar and jack up the ratchet handle slowly until it comes loose.
 
Maybe a vice grip around it might work

Originally Posted by Gasbuggy
Pipe over the 3/8 rachet. If it's that tight, might break a 1/2 to 3/8 reducer.


+1
 
I usually give them a fast pull with a long handled ratchet.
I understand sometimes things get crazy tightened.
I have a long Matco 1/2" breaker bar; that and a reducer can move the world...

As others have said, be sure the tool is seated fully.
Good luck.
 
I use a 15" long 1/2" drive breaker bar with a reducer. The spec is around 36 ft lbs.

alternatively, I'll use the jack under the handle trick.

I think you just need more leverage, not penetrating fluid.
 
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Heat, and if you have an air impact, low air pressure at first and see if it will loosen with multible low power impacts. Turn up the air a bit at a time and let the impact hammer it a bit.
 
Originally Posted by Gasbuggy
Pipe over the 3/8 rachet.


^^^^ This

I have an old bike seat post that works great.
 
These situations absolutely call for impact and not solely force.

Just helped someone with a manual trans fill and drain plugs a week ago. He's been going at it with a big breaker bar to no avail. I hit it with my Milwaukee impact and it flew right out as if it had no resistance at all.

Nobody wants to buy an impact gun, but nobody ever wants to return one once they do.
 
Originally Posted by Trav
Use an old Ratchet (I use an old Craftsman 36T only because I don't want to subject a high end tool to that sort of abuse) and give it a good sharp rap or as few with a dead blow hammer. The dead blow really puts the power where you need it.
Yep, use the oldest 3/8 ratchet I got and tap it with a good size hammer, one with some heft, always worked. Btw the ratchet is an old Penncraft by JC Penny I inherited, might be a clue how old it is. If it breaks, it's no great loss. Don't use it otherwise. Since OP not done often, raps likely better description.
 
Ok you are going to laugh at this but it works. I have a 2012 Honda Civic and here is what I did to loosen the bottom drain plug on the automatic transmission.
I put a 3/8 bar on the plug and put a floor jack underneath the wrench and slowly started to jack up the wrench and all of the sudden I heard a snap and it came loose.
 
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