Their Euro looks good, but it's likely not good for long drain. It's on the acidic side. However, I have seen some oddball RL UOAs up to near 20k miles that were good so who knows. I would have likely tried Red Line again if had they made their HP Oils with a more modern additive package (lower SA) and retained the PAO/Ester base oil, especially because most engines today are GDI. Their Noack is the best. Always kind of been on the fence with RL. It's great at certain things.
I would say if you kept RL within it's usable limits, engine cleanliness will be as good as it gets. Too far and it won't look as good.
@RDY4WAR said: "Killer base oil blend, as always, but kinda mediocre on the additive package. I guess they wanted to adhere to the SAPS requirements. That Noack is excellent. I would like a higher starting TBN, at least add 300-500 ppm of hard base Mg to get it up to at least 8. That or increase the treat rate of the add pack by 15-20%. This oil likely isn't meant for more than 7,500-10,000 miles anyway, and I'm also looking at it as someone who couldn't care less about emissions requirements."
Hello, I've decided to do something about my engine Varnish, in my Gen 2 1994 Montero 3.5 DOHC. I'm currently using Kreen in my engine. I purchased a case redline impulsively, before I decided on Kreen. Depending on how the Kreen works, I plan on using Redline in the near future, after running...
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