Akebono vs Toyota OEM pads

[wag123]

Originally Posted By: MaximaGuy
Always OEM which tend to be semi-metallic and softer on the rotors.
Ceramics can destroy the rotors over a long time.

From personal experience, I have observed the exact opposite. I am almost through with a 2nd set of Akebono ProAct ceramic brake pads on my current vehicle. I have never turned the rotors, they still run true, and they show minimal wear.

Originally Posted By: Char Baby
Akebono ProACT were probably the smoothest, cleanest and most luxurious feeling pads while have good brake bite that I have ever used.

I totally agree.

 

[meep]

Akebonos in my 06 tundra were a POOR combination. it's the only time I've ever been displeased with them. The tundra also had the upgraded factory 4-pot brakes. That gen of tundra was also known for anemic brakes. The best pads I found for it were Hawk LTS. I was tempted also by the bendix semi-mets. The Hawk did have a little dusting, but the akebonos were downright dangerous, sometimes requiring both-feet stops if there was a load in it. The Hawks were not "night and day" better, but they were to a degree better in improved stopping power.

That's the only negative I'll say for them. I also have them in our volvos and find they are not as grippy as the oem pads, but they dust less than oem and still are very usable for that vehicle.

That said, Akebono is usually my go-to pad.

 

[nthach]

They are one of the better aftermarket pads you can buy. But in some cases they are not an exact OEM clone.

I've installed them on the rear axle of a friend's Subaru, so far so good but they are missing a wear indicator so I'm in the habit of checking the rear brakes at an OCI. The OEM pads have wear indicators for both sides.

Akebono can claim OEM because they are OEM - but 90% of the time in the aftermarket, brake pads tend to use a few compounds. Akebono is no exception, but they do have more compounds listed per AMECA. Roulunds Braking(MAT) is now a major aftermarket supplier to O'Reilly/AutoZone and maybe Advanced and they also supply Volvo with OEM pads. Made in India or China and they use many of the same compounds across lines.

 

[RitcheyRch]

My feelings exactly when I had my 2002 Tundra. I even had the Service Bulletin (SB) done that changed out the front calipers and they still were horrible. I finally ended up with the Hawk LTS pads as well and it made a slight diference

Originally Posted By: meep
Akebonos in my 06 tundra were a POOR combination. it's the only time I've ever been displeased with them. The tundra also had the upgraded factory 4-pot brakes. That gen of tundra was also known for anemic brakes. The best pads I found for it were Hawk LTS. I was tempted also by the bendix semi-mets. The Hawk did have a little dusting, but the akebonos were downright dangerous, sometimes requiring both-feet stops if there was a load in it. The Hawks were not "night and day" better, but they were to a degree better in improved stopping power.

That's the only negative I'll say for them. I also have them in our volvos and find they are not as grippy as the oem pads, but they dust less than oem and still are very usable for that vehicle.

That said, Akebono is usually my go-to pad.

 

[Yah-Tah-Hey]

My Camry came with Akebono brake pads. Still 5mm left after 73000 miles.

 

[Tornado Red]

I switched to Akebono ceramic pads about 12 or 14 years ago, when I got tired of brake dust on the alloy wheels.

 

[123GO]

Chances are Its not the Tundras pads its most likely the load leveling proportion valve going bad just above the rearend on Toy trucks/SUV. It has a rod that connects from valve on frame to the rear axle and as the vehicle is loaded & emptied the valve opens/closes to add or lessen the fluid/pressure for rear braking. That valve drove my brake shop nuts yrs ago on my 91 Toy pickup before my learning on net it was going bad.
Replace valve or disconnect the rod from the rearend and tie it up to the bottom of bed/frame to test it.

This will fix the issue most everytime. Mine was still tied up to its frame 10yrs later when I sold it, I simply told the guy who bought it leave it or change it but I wasn't.
The reason it makes one think its pads is because when new pads are installed the truck stops better until the pads wear down to where the caliper don't squeeze well enough again and you notice slower stopping power.
The valve causes other brake issues too like glazing, warped rotors etc.. Dealership just kept changing new pads/rotors everytime I took it in & charging me, never mentioned that valve once. I never went through brakes fast like that after tying the rod up.

I've been through most brands over the yrs and today I prefer to either buy Hawk performance pads to stop faster (my performance cars) or Akebono Pro-Act for excellent stopping and longer life both (Daily drivers). Understand no pad does it all perfectly.

Advics are OEM and I know our Lexus dealer put Akebono marked pads on my wife's Lexus the one time I took it to them (3yrs ago) and my neighbor says his Corolla gets Advics at dealer so the Advics most likely are Toys lower line pads, idk? But' possibly both brands are same exact OEM spec just different suppliers too when bought from dealer?
My 05 Tundra & previous 07 4Runner both stopped great with the Pro-Act. Very happy with them, 100k on my Tundra pads now & still stopping great, with 347k miles I installed 2 sets. Of course my load level rod has been tied up 3 yrs now..lol

 

[edyvw]

Originally Posted by Tornado Red
I switched to Akebono ceramic pads about 12 or 14 years ago, when I got tired of brake dust on the alloy wheels.

That is pretty much the only reason why people move to Akebono.