Acura / Honda 3.5 v6 timing belt frustration!

[John105]

Right. Certain DIY isn't for all DIY'ers. It all boils down to "worth". I've spent $200 and a few hours. That was DEFINITELY worth it for me to save $1000. All was good til I got the code. Once I get finished with my classes to the point I can order decide how to proceed. Recompressing the "new" Aisin tensioner is still on the table and a likely course. Apparently my issue isn't common. The job really isn't "hard" if you have the patience and skill. Would be a thousand times easier if they'd just mark the timing marks on the **** belt. Lol.

I did learn this lesson with my V8 02 sensors. Rounding the sensors was about all I accomplished in 2.5 hours. But I still liked trying and seeing I guess.

 

[jimbanville]

My neighbor brought over his obd2 reader and it shows a current P2610 code and these were the only 2 items (in the attached pic) that weren't "green". It did have what it called an "historic code" that said ECM/timing off. I unplugged the battery and reconnected it and the "emissions failure" and engine light went out, but I suspect it will return. It came and went before.

 

[Hall]

If the timing code is flagged as "historical", you might be okay in that the ECU isn't seeing the issue currently. Without going back to the other people's comments, I thought they called it a "relearn" that you have to do, not just a reset. Or maybe the ECU self-relearns over a few drive cycles and it's good now.

 

[jimbanville]

If the timing code is flagged as "historical", you might be okay in that the ECU isn't seeing the issue currently. Without going back to the other people's comments, I thought they called it a "relearn" that you have to do, not just a reset. Or maybe the ECU self-relearns over a few drive cycles and it's good now.

Yes. Relearn. I just need to know how to do that. I'm certain I'll get another service engine light and fault warning. It would come and go before.

 

[Hall]

Yes. Relearn.

It sounds like some scan tools can do it and a dealer visit isn't required. I don't know if a typical $40 one or even $200 one can do it, but maybe you need a higher-end, professional mechanic version unit. Googling indicates tools from Snap-On can do it or another post says a "dealer-level scan tool". Worst case, find a local shop that you can hand a $20 bill to to plug in and run the command.

 

[jimbanville]

For a replacement pin, use a drill bit.

My first thought is that you did not remove all of the slack between the two cam pullies, but that usually results in the cam (or the crank) jumping a tooth - which you confirmed was not the case.

The only other possibilities are: 1) timing belt is out of spec in some way, 2) need to perform the CKP relearn

Personally I'm a little weary of Aisin kits after my bad experience last year - a Pilot jumped several teeth after 10k+ miles for no apparent reason.

How do I do a CKP relearn? Thanks!

 

[willbur]

How do I do a CKP relearn? Thanks!

From Honda FSM- Yours is a 2014 but may work for you and its free and simple to do. YouTube is your friend. Check it out

 

[jimbanville]

View attachment 164574
From Honda FSM- Typical instruction. May work for you and its free and simple to do. YouTube is your friend

Cool. So, in my garage, start car and hold rpm's to 3000 until radiator fan comes on. Then drive to an abandoned (or otherwise empty at the time) level road or big parking lot, put the car in 2nd using S mode and accelerate and decelerate (using engine as the brake) from 2500 to 1000 rpm's several times in a row. Turn off car. Turn on car, wait 30 sec. and then start driving normally?

 

[Trav]

Historical codes are nothing, it is something that happened in the past not a current fault. If you do not get a CEL now dont worry about it unless it comes back with that same code.

 

[jimbanville]

Historical codes are nothing, it is something that happened in the past not a current fault. If you do not get a CEL now dont worry about it unless it comes back with that same code.

I'm 99% sure it will come back. I got the ECM/timing error/emissions fault code maybe a hour or so into the first day of driving after replacing everything. A couple days later it was gone when I started the car and came back in less than an hour of driving. So sometimes it sticks around and shows up when the car starts and sometimes it doesn't but comes back while I'm driving.

 

[Trav]

Has it come back since the redid the job? It takes more than once drive cycle for some codes to set, it will set a pending code after the first fail but not trip the light until it does it again.

 

[jimbanville]

Has it come back since the redid the job? It takes more than once drive cycle for some codes to set, it will set a pending code after the first fail but not trip the light until it does it again.

I started the car for the first time yesterday after putting everything back together. I didn't pull battery cable this. Started car and service engine light / emissions fault warning were still present. Did a test drive. Used the scanner and got the code. Later I pulled the battery cable for a few seconds and restarted car. Engine light and emissions fair code went away, but I know after sometime driving they will come back. As I've said, sometimes the light/fault are there on start up and sometimes they're not, but they come on after sometime driving. I'm not driving the car "regularly" right now because I'm waiting on a new passenger side fender liner to replace the one that came loose and got chewed up by the tire some time ago (separate issue). It rains everyday here. Don't want to splash water everywhere in there.

 

[Trav]

It would be still present if you didnt clear it, it takes more than 1 drive cycle to clear some codes on its own. It may not come back, I would wait until it does before doing anything more. After driving you can check for pending codes.

 

[jimbanville]

It would be still present if you didnt clear it, it takes more than 1 drive cycle to clear some codes on its own. It may not come back, I would wait until it does before doing anything more. After driving you can check for pending codes.

We couldn't "clear" it. Neither the guy using his scanner at autozone nor my neighbor with his scanner could clear the code.
It just randomly goes away between restarts, but it always comes back.

I have no choice but to wait til it comes back (it went away this time after pulling battery cable) since no one knows what the problem is. It could be a lot of things.

I'll try the manual relearn as posted above if the procedure I laid out sounds correct. When it comes back I'll probably have no choice but to PAY someone to do a diagnostic. Yay.

 

[Trav]

Those are permanent codes and cannot be erased manually, once the issue is repaired they will clear on their own but it may take a few drive cycles. Codes are stored in different types of memory RAM and ROM the ROM (Read Only Memory) is where permanent codes are stored.

 

[jimbanville]

Those are permanent codes and cannot be erased manually, once the issue is repaired they will clear on their own but it may take a few drive cycles. Codes are stored in different types of memory RAM and ROM the ROM (Read Only Memory) is where permanent codes are stored.

Right. It would nice to know what is causing the code.
The car was driven daily for a week or so (with the code present since the car still drove absolutely fine) before I took it apart to see if the timing belt was installed incorrectly (it wasn't). I wasn't the one driving the car, but when I went to drive it after that week, the service engine light and emissions fault weren't showing on start up, but they popped up again after a short while of driving.

 

[Nukeman7]

Right. It would nice to know what is causing the code.
The car was driven daily for a week or so (with the code present since the car still drove absolutely fine) before I took it apart to see if the timing belt was installed incorrectly (it wasn't). I wasn't the one driving the car, but when I went to drive it after that week, the service engine light and emissions fault weren't showing on start up, but they popped up again after a short while of driving.

Unless I have missed something in the prior 116 posts, you still have not identified the specific trouble code that keeps recurring. On a Honda, a common evaporative emissions code is P0457 which is often caused by a loose gas cap or a gas cap with a hardened rubber seal. This code can come and go if the seal is compromised.

 

[jimbanville]

Unless I have missed something in the prior 116 posts, you still have not identified the specific trouble code that keeps recurring. On a Honda, a common evaporative emissions code is P0457 which is often caused by a loose gas cap or a gas cap with a hardened rubber seal. This code can come and go if the seal is compromised.

You missed it in post #102, and the gas cap was the very first thing I checked.

 

[terry274]

Perhaps the P2610 has nothing to do with the timing belt change. Google indicates this is a code for time elapsed from the time the ignition was shut off until the ignition was started.
Any chance there is some damaged wiring near the timing belt area?

 

[jimbanville]

Perhaps the P2610 has nothing to do with the timing belt change. Google indicates this is a code for time elapsed from the time the ignition was shut off until the ignition was started.
Any chance there is some damaged wiring near the timing belt area?

I'll check it. Only wires near the timing assembly is a group of wires in a loom that goes over the rear cam sprocket. I may unplug and replug all the connectors at the ECM that had to be removed for the timing job.
Just as a reminder, I was getting both this code and an "emissions fault" warning. I just need to start driving the car and see what new codes come back. They went away when I disconnected battery momentarily.