AC blower quits working on lower settings?

Joined
Nov 29, 2009
Messages
7,268
This is on a dodge ram. Sometimes you have to tap on the blower motor to get it to start spinning again. I've heard it can be the resistor, so I ordered a new one since that was cheaper, but the blower doesn't always blow as hard as it should and will typically stop working on settings 1 and 2. Is the blower motor shot or is it more likely that resistor?
 
The resistor is what I would look at for blower issues when high speed works good. However, if you have to tap the motor. it likely is bad (binding bearings) as well and may have overheated the resistor.
 
Last edited:
The resistor is what I would look at for blower issues when high speed works good. However, if you have to tap the motor. it likely is bad (binding) as well and may have overheated the resistor.
I don't think dodge uses filters, so there could be twigs and stuff in that blower box jamming it up I would assume. Probably should just replace both honestly and start off on the right foot
 
Sounds like a bad blower motor bearing or bad brushes.

When the bearing goes bad, the shaded pole motor requires more amps to spin the squirrel cage than what the resisted supply is putting out. The resistor pack does nothing but step down amperage. If you can get the motor to spin on the lower settings the resistor pack is fine, but should still be changed because it's likely burnt since they require the blower motor to be spinning to cool off the heat they radiate.
 
Sounds like a bad blower motor bearing or bad brushes.

When the bearing goes bad, the shaded pole motor requires more amps to spin the squirrel cage than what the resisted supply is putting out. The resistor pack does nothing but step down amperage. If you can get the motor to spin on the lower settings the resistor pack is fine, but should still be changed because it's likely burnt since they require the blower motor to be spinning to cool off the heat they radiate.
I agree, bad bearing(s), brushes, commutator, or commutator-winding contact, but it is not a shaded pole motor. Shaded pole is AC without brushes.

Regarding other info in the topic, there is no necessity to replace the speed controller resistor along with a failing motor, if the speed controller is working to set the new motor to all speeds. I'd swap the motor, then see if that is the case.

If the speed controller resistor fails in the future, that poses no harm to the motor. It just won't work on lower than highest speed, or potentially some other speeds working too but not all, (or possibly not working at all if it's transistor based instead of resistors). till you replace the speed controller.
 
Well they only have 2 in the country apparently. Whats a good aftermarket blower motor that won't fail a year from now?
 
I agree, bad bearing(s), brushes, commutator, or commutator-winding contact, but it is not a shaded pole motor. Shaded pole is AC without brushes.

Regarding other info in the topic, there is no necessity to replace the speed controller resistor along with a failing motor, if the speed controller is working to set the new motor to all speeds. I'd swap the motor, then see if that is the case.

If the speed controller resistor fails in the future, that poses no harm to the motor. It just won't work on lower than highest speed, or potentially some other speeds working too but not all, (or possibly not working at all if it's transistor based instead of resistors). till you replace the speed controller.
If OP can tap the blower motor to get it working again I'm assuming this is an older dodge, and they use a resistive wire type of pack. Those things are smoked if they get hot. I'd agree if it were a modern solid state controller.
 
I just called the dealer again to ask for a price. They want $343 for thus blower motor. How come the automated store only wants like $75?
 
Looks like the Mopar blower motor is back ordered until 10-31-23 I prefer to stick with oem parts, oreillys has a Murray brand blower motor, never heard of it.
Iirc, Murray is one of their house brand part lines. Haven't ever had issues with various stuff from them, but if it's a particularly difficult replacement procedure I might wait for OE. Then again, an OE part can be bad out of the box, too. So...make sure you verify that it works before you install it. If you can't semi-install (where you can use the stock HVAC controls), then it should just need a 12v + and - to test and make sure it runs.
 
The blower is what kills the resister. Replace both
Not at all, it is common to have the resistor fail while the motor is fine still, or vice-versa in this case, and the question that remains is, does the resistor continue to work properly? If it does, it does not need replaced. As I stated previously, there is no penalty in replacing a faulty blower and continuing to use a working resistor module. You gain nothing replacing a working part based only on internet false information. Either the resistor has failed or it hasn't. There is no reason to plan to replace both until the new motor is installed to check for proper operation.

If the resistor module works today, if it fails at some point in the future, there is no extra cost, no extra labor, no detriment to not continuing to use the resistor module if it still works today... unless you're in the camp that wants to replace everything remotely related to a fault but then, where does that end? Motor blows, so replace transmission?

Fortunately there is observation and testing so we can only replace faulty parts. It might be different if while replacing the one part, it made replacing the other a lot less work and/or expense, but I don't see any evidence of that in this case and it usually isn't much work to replace the blower motor speed controller.

On the contrary, this seems like the sort of scam argument that a shop looking to maximize their profits would make, telling someone "oh you need to replace this other part now too", when it is not true, and the other part has minimal real labor, and a high markup so it's just a big profit margin for the shop to pretend that is needed.

To word it differently, a new motor does not in any way pose additional stress on a working speed controller. If the speed controller works with the new motor, it would be paranoid/madness/misinformation to replace a part that is demonstrating that it is working fine.
 
Last edited:
My 1995 Toyota did this for several years. When I eventually set aside the time and $ I replaced it. Don’t recall how much. But remember the wires from the resistor? To the blower motor we’re half melted and had to splice new ones in
 
They don't call them "Stealerships" for nothing. :)
They wanted like $120 for the resistor too. I went to genos garage that sells parts specifically for the dodge cummins and it was $164 for the same part number OEM, that's the blower motor. Backordered though. I'm just going to get one at oreillys and replace both resitor and blower motor and be done with it.
 
Not at all, it is common to have the resistor fail while the motor is fine still, or vice-versa in this case, and the question that remains is, does the resistor continue to work properly? If it does, it does not need replaced. As I stated previously, there is no penalty in replacing a faulty blower and continuing to use a working resistor module. You gain nothing replacing a working part based only on internet false information. Either the resistor has failed or it hasn't. There is no reason to plan to replace both until the new motor is installed to check for proper operation.

If the resistor module works today, if it fails at some point in the future, there is no extra cost, no extra labor, no detriment to not continuing to use the resistor module if it still works today... unless you're in the camp that wants to replace everything remotely related to a fault but then, where does that end? Motor blows, so replace transmission?

Fortunately there is observation and testing so we can only replace faulty parts. It might be different if while replacing the one part, it made replacing the other a lot less work and/or expense, but I don't see any evidence of that in this case and it usually isn't much work to replace the blower motor speed controller.

On the contrary, this seems like the sort of scam argument that a shop looking to maximize their profits would make, telling someone "oh you need to replace this other part now too", when it is not true, and the other part has minimal real labor, and a high markup so it's just a big profit margin for the shop to pretend that is needed.

To word it differently, a new motor does not in any way pose additional stress on a working speed controller. If the speed controller works with the new motor, it would be paranoid/madness/misinformation to replace a part that is demonstrating that it is working fine.
I would think it would be stuck on one speed if the resistor didn't work.
 
Back
Top