'82 Ford 200 (3.3L) I6 - Front Main / Timing Cover

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Pull the vacuum line off the EGR, plug the line with a golf tee and go for a test ride. It may ping some so go easy and see if it dies. Another problem with the 3.3 was the choke pull off diaphram on the carb.which also can cause your issue.Accelerator pump was made of leather, engine off,look down the throat of the carb, manually open throttle wide open quickly and see if there is a squirt of fuel from the accelerator pump.
 
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Thanks for the information guys. I think it may need a carb kit put in. Any other carbureted car I've ever driven would start with just a flick of the key when the engine is warm. This one never has. It always requires a quick stab of the gas while cranking but now that's not even effective. I I wasn't sure it was going to start at all yesterday after going out for a quick lunch.
Does a typical carb kit come with an accelerator pump replacement? Thanks for your help.
 
You can get all the carb parts from Rock, rebuild the whole thing inc pull off and choke heater. At that age I would get a float for it also, the foam floats tend to get a little saturated.
Use the kit from standard or Motorcraft, they will have all the internal bits you need and are good quality. The whole thing is under $40.
 
Thanks, Trav. Does the Motorcraft kit (CT1290) have the accelerator pump repair part? I have no idea what it looks like on this carb.

Thanks

 
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yup Trav beat me to it. That's definitely the accelerator pump's rubber diaphragm.

and hey, Wylie?! Could you post pictures of the old pump's diaphragm? Be interesting to see how it looked like mine. mine was hard with small cracks going towards the top of the cup/up the sides.

I'm really happy for ya, not a lot of $$$ (wasn't back then either) and the Motorcraft kit was still available! very cool!
grin.gif


Ya you're describing perfectly how it was for me, was a chore to get the car started, couldn't just jump in, set the choke, start the car. It was "oh I wonder what it's going to do today".. got tiresome when I needed to get to college in the 90s! But.. once that stuff was fixed, it wasn't an issue for the car to start.

I don't know what's in your area, but you could look up 100% gasoline, some stations do sell it around the country, no ethanol in it. pure-gas.org is a website that shows a list of stations that have it. That way you can get the maximum performance out of a car that wasn't really designed for ethanol gas. Just trying to help!
 
oh and trav makes a good point, if going to the work to rebuild the carb, might as well put some new floats in it too. Those aren't included in the rebuild kit, but at rockauto it's $10.37 for the floats. I know you were saying it's ridiculous how keeping an old car running is expensive, but then again it's how old?! lol.. Plus these parts are just as cheap as they were when I got mine repaired. Once you get it fixed, it'll be like the engine woke up!
 
Originally Posted By: WylieCoyote
Thanks for your help. Ordered the Motorcraft.


No problem, if you need a general walk through on how to rebuild just post lots of guys to share.
When I started out the plungers had a leather seal and the floats were soldered brass. I still have an 80's Motorcraft VV carb tool set. LOL
 
I guess I should've expected early 80s-era carb part to fall apart after years of sitting, and then the introduction of ethenol. Bah!
 
Another question guys. What's the name for the thing circled in the pictures? I'd call it a servo because of what it does, but I'm not able to find anything by that name.

This is the reason the car has never started without giving it throttle. Just found that mine doesn't work. Any idea how to find a new one?


 
That solenoid bumps up idle speed when the a/c clutch engages. There is a fast idle adjustment screw for cold engine starts. You have to give the pedal a quick goose before starting to get the screw in contact with the fast idle cam. Straight scoop from my leftover factory manual.
 
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You guys are the best.

My '78 Monza (no a/c) had one of these that I could see jump when I turned the car on. That car would start with a flick of the key (when it was already warmed up)


Is this one supposed to react with the ignition switch, or react with the A/C cycling? Or Both? It gave no reaction to the ignition switch last night. I didn't start it again last night to check, but I suspect it does react to the A/C, as my idle never barely dips when it cycles.

The best I can tell, the accelerator pump has kicked the bucket. Perhaps the floats, as well. The condition has deteriorated to where the car is extremely hard to start, hot or cold. When it does fire, it's running very rich. I'm getting a lot of gray smoke for a few minutes. Just last week, it fired instantly when cold with one kick of the throttle, and ran well once warm, so I'm guessing the rubber & leather haven't enjoyed their re-awakening from sitting in someone's driveway for 5 years.

I don't have the time, garage space, or enough experience with carbs to feel comfortable enough tinkering with it, so I ordered a new one. I'm thinking $200 from RockAuto is going to be cheaper than having someone repair the old one. Labor rates are pretty high, even at the local mechanic. 2 bolts, a few vacuum hoses, and the linkage are all I have to deal with if I just replace it.

Thanks for your help guys.
 
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Take the carb off and let someone do it for you that has experience, remans were never much good and they are even worse now.
You may get lucky and get a good one but I wouldn't bet on it. Its not hard its just you have to pay attention to the details with things like float height, getting rods in the correct holes and so on.
 
Originally Posted By: WylieCoyote
You guys are the best.

My '78 Monza (no a/c) had one of these that I could see jump when I turned the car on. That car would start with a flick of the key (when it was already warmed up)


Is this one supposed to react with the ignition switch, or react with the A/C cycling? Or Both? It gave no reaction to the ignition switch last night. I didn't start it again last night to check, but I suspect it does react to the A/C, as my idle never barely dips when it cycles.

The best I can tell, the accelerator pump has kicked the bucket. Perhaps the floats, as well. The condition has deteriorated to where the car is extremely hard to start, hot or cold. When it does fire, it's running very rich. I'm getting a lot of gray smoke for a few minutes. Just last week, it fired instantly when cold with one kick of the throttle, and ran well once warm, so I'm guessing the rubber & leather haven't enjoyed their re-awakening from sitting in someone's driveway for 5 years.

I don't have the time, garage space, or enough experience with carbs to feel comfortable enough tinkering with it, so I ordered a new one. I'm thinking $200 from RockAuto is going to be cheaper than having someone repair the old one. Labor rates are pretty high, even at the local mechanic. 2 bolts, a few vacuum hoses, and the linkage are all I have to deal with if I just replace it.

Thanks for your help guys.


hey wylie! you're most welcome for the help (my part) that I could give ya! never knew years later I'd be giving advice about that engine, very cool. And yup, I was nodding my head yes when you began to describe that it won't even stay running now. Exactly the same thing that happened with mine. Hey, at least I was able to tell you what it would do! When you mentioned running rich, I do remember that I was adjusting the air/fuel mixture screw A LOT! Until I had that accelerator pump diaphragm replaced.

I also agree with Trav, even on modern/current parts, remanufactured is a [censored]-shoot. Lots of junk out there. I can only imagine the lack of current knowledge about carbs is even less.

I did a quick search online and I have NO idea what Holley would charge, but.. They do offer rebuild services for your carb (they said Motorcraft oem)! I believe it's a Holley 1946 model on your 3.3L. Wouldn't hurt to give them a call and ask them how much that service would be. Better to repair the part ya know instead of one ya dont.. Just saying.

https://www.holley.com/customspeedshop/

What's cool is if Holley charges a fair price, they are the manufacturer and would probably do the best job. And I doubt it would be $200.. but hey give 'em a call, see for yourself.
 
Thanks, researcher. The new carb will be here on Monday, so we'll see how that goes. Gave everything a good look yesterday and it looks like a fairly easy replace. Just gotta be careful around those brittle old vacuum lines (the really small ones that I can't find replacements for).

Thanks for the Holley rebuild info. If this backfires (it may actually backfire, LOL) I may send mine off for a complete overhaul. The description of the unit I bought is promising, anyway.

Did one final startup yesterday afternoon just to see how badly it's behavior has deteriorated. Very hard to start, but once running, it smokes for a bit, clears up and acts as if nothing ever happened. Idles fine, and appears that it would drive fine. Left it home today, as I don't want to get stranded at work. Long wait til Monday. Going to avoid starting it again if I can help it. I think it gets worse every time I do.

Thanks again for your continued input.


 
Man, the carbs on these were problems when new. I've had a '78 and '79 in a Zephyr and Fairmont respectively. If you didn't follow the directions on the sun visor about cold start, they wouldn't run right when cold.

I don't know if anything changed by the 1980s, but I do know the two I've had were picky and you had to follow the procedure to the letter if you wanted to drive it cold.

IIRC, it was press the accelerator to the floor one time and then start it with no throttle. If you didn't do that, you didn't set the choke and it would stall as you tried to drive it.
 
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