4 stroke titanium valves with copper beryllium seats

Does Kibblewhite offer the SS valves for it? Is so, you can put those in it and be done.
Del West for the valves I am finding out tomorrow if this includes new valve springs and retainers

I was hopeful it would have Del West springs to go along with but if I remember correctly Del doesn't offer springs so if my memory is correct I got Pro+X or (Prox) possibly Tusk but I have so many different items on this build hard to remember them all

On a separate note I talked with a guy who has used a Hot Cams Stage 2 cam on a Kawasaki and it gave a difference in mid not anything explosive but a difference none the less so I am going with my new cam in the install......

I have also read on a few threads on Vital MX to spot weld the cam gear to camshaft fo extra saftey so I am doing this
 
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Thank you for the reply I have put far to many things into this 250 to change at this moment I do predict a new bike if everything turns out like I plan for the 2025 MY

Been busy with the extreme heat but I am picking the head up tomorrow then I can see what I did and did not get for my money
oh i understand extreme heat...as i type this 105 heat index 111 .... not the hottest its been in the last week
 
looks very very nice!!!

i hope it lasts till christmas

like i said my buddy Perry had one...valve after valve after valve in that...and he took it to a primo shop to to make sure it was all aligned
and straight. munch munch munch
then he found it was cheaper to just by an entire head from HoT and unbolt the old and put on the new
oh and this was harescrambles and crosscountry ... not mx/sx. so our revs are not as high

my 18years on this site have all been about the 250 4bangers. i had an 01yz50f that i started oil samples on in march of 01
and then when the other colors started in 04.
i still have my 06 and my 16.
 
The DelWest valves are nice, but if they're Ti, you will run into the same problem. If you don't like doing maintenance, SS is the only way to go.
 
The DelWest valves are nice, but if they're Ti, you will run into the same problem. If you don't like doing maintenance, SS is the only way to go.
What is a realistic number of hours you think we can go given I go with a clean filter on rotation directly after first moto and oil after each event ?

It went 140 hours bone stock as far as the head goes was getting hard to start on occasion .....that's a few easy dad hours following my son and the rest all my sons from age 13 to current day riding 250 Beginner at a few local tracks in central Oklahoma

BTW we have been running Maxima in both holes 75wt in the clutch side 10w30 in the crankcase
 
What is a realistic number of hours you think we can go given I go with a clean filter on rotation directly after first moto and oil after each event ?

It went 140 hours bone stock as far as the head goes was getting hard to start on occasion .....that's a few easy dad hours following my son and the rest all my sons from age 13 to current day riding 250 Beginner at a few local tracks in central Oklahoma

BTW we have been running Maxima in both holes 75wt in the clutch side 10w30 in the crankcase
Not sure as there are too many variables. If you ride it easy, they can go for many, many hours between adjustments. I knew of some people who were hard on them and they were replacing valves every time you turned around.
In the early 2000's, Honda recommended piston, rings and wrist pin every 20 hours. Now, one could go longer, but that's what Honda recommended.
I haven't heard what the mfg's are recommending now days but I know the intervals are longer mainly due to the materials they use. Most pistons are forged now and they also use different materials on the valve seats and the valves are made from a different Ti alloy with newer coatings.
 
What is a realistic number of hours you think we can go given I go with a clean filter on rotation directly after first moto and oil after each event ?

It went 140 hours bone stock as far as the head goes was getting hard to start on occasion .....that's a few easy dad hours following my son and the rest all my sons from age 13 to current day riding 250 Beginner at a few local tracks in central Oklahoma

BTW we have been running Maxima in both holes 75wt in the clutch side 10w30 in the crankcase
thats one of the biggest "it depends" there is.
right now in my heat and dust...50 feet...maybe 100.
if you R&R filters every moto thats about as good as it gets
down here in a 2hr harescramble the pros will actually pit and change filters as it gets too plugged

also remember that going to SS vs Ti means more mass. more mass requires more spring for control at the same rpm
if not its floaty floaty time and one off time and mr piston says hi to mr valve and then the gernade goes off
seen a lot of ugly carnage from that

ive not tested the 10w30 of maxima...but what i have tested of maxima was top3 of what ive tested (out of 92 samples)
super spendy though!

if its hard to start...those valves are done...way done...welcome to tulip city amsterdam

ive seen a crf250r pulled back to the pits because it would not start hot due to the valves
 
Those are some beautiful parts! Love the eye candy.

$1,110 gets you a 300cc kit. Not exactly the ideal solution for all the obvious reasons, but does positively affect valve/head reliability.
 
thats one of the biggest "it depends" there is.
right now in my heat and dust...50 feet...maybe 100.
if you R&R filters every moto thats about as good as it gets
down here in a 2hr harescramble the pros will actually pit and change filters as it gets too plugged

also remember that going to SS vs Ti means more mass. more mass requires more spring for control at the same rpm
if not its floaty floaty time and one off time and mr piston says hi to mr valve and then the gernade goes off
seen a lot of ugly carnage from that

ive not tested the 10w30 of maxima...but what i have tested of maxima was top3 of what ive tested (out of 92 samples)
super spendy though!

if its hard to start...those valves are done...way done...welcome to tulip city amsterdam

ive seen a crf250r pulled back to the pits because it would not start hot due to the valves
It has pro circuit springs with the Del West Ti valves

JE forged piston 13.80:1

Have you ever heard of a cam gear and the shaft separating from each other?

I am just waiting to get my friend to spot weld my camshaft/gear before I finish the build

Also I'm ditching the Honda factory timing chain adjuster for a manual billet style and I am curious the amount of tension to set this at I am researching that now
 
It has pro circuit springs with the Del West Ti valves

JE forged piston 13.80:1

Have you ever heard of a cam gear and the shaft separating from each other?

I am just waiting to get my friend to spot weld my camshaft/gear before I finish the build

Also I'm ditching the Honda factory timing chain adjuster for a manual billet style and I am curious the amount of tension to set this at I am researching that now
yes ive seen the cam gear spin on the camshaft...nasty problems occur
it doesnt happen often...but all it takes is once
here is my advice on the cam chain adjuster...get a reading on the tension with the honda unit installed...then you know how much to do the aftermarket manual version
my 06 runs a JE forged 14.0, williamsmotorwerks ported head, vertex ignition, crower cam and few other goodies
my 16 is bone stock with a remapped efi ... lol thats it
 
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