Well its been a few weeks since my 5.3 was deleted and had the crank relearn and its been running great until yesterday.Now this truck sat for almost a year before i pulled the engine to do a delete and has had a couple tanks of fuel through it.Yesterday i drove to the hardware store after work and when i came out it started for a second and quit.It caught me off guard so when it did it again i thought great here we go.I put my foot down on the accelerator and it started up and run and before i got far it started to stumble and as i pulled over it came out of it.Ran fine all the way home.I notice sometimes it runs a little rough at idle then clears out .Any suggestions on what i should look for.Is it possible i need to relearn something besides the crank?
2014 sierra deleted 5.3 immediate stall on start up
- Thread starter duffy
- Start date
Since it has been running fine for some time, check the basics, fuel, spark etc
What got deleted?
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
Betting AFM was deleted -
I yield the balance of my time to Clinebarger …
I yield the balance of my time to Clinebarger …
Likely not AFM delete related except maybe a loose ground from a workmanship error.
I'm also curious about what DTC's if any where stored?
I'm also curious about what DTC's if any where stored?
I had a code for a downstream o2 sensor and the Cel light on intermittently from the start a month ago but it’s been running great.This issue is only showing up the last few days if you run the truck for awhile and shut it off for fuel ect and restart in 10 minutes or so.Tonight was s 5 min stop and the hardest start yet.Shoved accelerator to floor and it started after a bit but ran a little rough then cleared.Was going to check for codes tomorrow but it’s been running for a month great so i don’t think it’s related to the cam swap.I wondered if something was getting heat soaked as it only happens if you try to restart it hot.
Installed a L8T non afm cam and gm performance lifters and blocked the oil ports for the vlom solenoids.
If it's hard to start after refueling....Stuck open Purge Solenoid.
Disconnect the vapor line & electrical connector from the solenoid, Start engine, There shouldn't be any vacuum at the solenoid.
Disconnect the vapor line & electrical connector from the solenoid, Start engine, There shouldn't be any vacuum at the solenoid.
WOT is the clear flood mode - injector issues sounds possible since it runs rough and clears out. I had an Avalanche here last month same symptoms and found #3 injector stuck open. Just a guess not seeing data stream and codes. Cline is right about the purge after getting gas but usually when it gets that bad you'll already have the Evap code.
Not so sure it's been scanned since this issue cropped up??
After the crank relearn a month ago i had a PO138 o2 sensor high voltage bank 1 downstream.I had a code for this sensor last year and replaced it with a ntk sensor and it made no difference.My check engine light has been on and off the last month sometimes days before it comes on again.When i read the codes today this is what popped up.PO13A PO13E PO171 PO174 P2271 PO455 PO171 PO174 and PO138 which i had.This starting and quitting thing is only after you run it then shut it off for 10-30 minutes and try to restart it.Could a MAF sensor cause this even though it’s not showing up in the codes?The motor has been running good and giving me as good a fuel mileage as my 05 5.3 except for this hiccup.
Fuel pressure regulator could be leaking if it has the same type as the earlier ones. Leaks into the vacuum line and floods the engine.
Something to look into for sure.It set a lean code twice for both banks.I have no CEL on for a few days but once it’s been run awhile you can tell something isn’t just right .You can just hear a flutter for lack of a better word.
Sorry not sure what LTFT means.I’m not very knowledgeable on the electrical and settings stuff.I cleared the codes but keep getting different ones for the bank 1 downstream which i changed before the motor shagged up.I’m now getting one for sensor signal stuck rich and before it’s read high voltage.Once it’s running for awhile you can tell it’s running a little rough but i’m not getting any codes for misfires.I didn’t know if maybe the map sensor was sending bad info but if so it only appears to be setting it for bank 1.Does a crank sensor just fail as i read somewhere that a faulty one can go wonky as it heats up.It ran so darn good the first month it’s kinda discouraging trying to figure it out.Me and this truck have a hate relationship for each other lol.
How many different sensors have you replaced on the truck so far, and did you use OEM parts, or aftermarket parts?
Please be as specific as you can.
Please be as specific as you can.
I haven’t replaced any yet other than the o2 sensor that it said was bad just before i fixed the motor but even then it didn’t fix the o2 code which made me think something else was going on.It’s a NTK sensor and i thought about getting another and trying it since all 4 are same.I just seem to be having o2 sensors showing different codes.Anything from running lean to stuck in rich position to high voltage.I wondered if something else could be sending bad info to the ecm.It runs smooth as silk but after driving about 10 minutes you can tell it’s running a little rough.I’m not getting any other codes like misfires or other sensors only o2 sensor codes.
Do you have a scan tool that will allow you to graph the O2 sensors?
That might be the easiest way to determine which sensor is giving odd data.
Also, if the new sensor can be swapped from Bank 1 to Bank 2, that might allow you to see how things behave that way.
That might be the easiest way to determine which sensor is giving odd data.
Also, if the new sensor can be swapped from Bank 1 to Bank 2, that might allow you to see how things behave that way.
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