2010 Accord--Pitted cam lobe pics

[AlphaOmega]

1.6l GDI gamma engine, used quaker state, Valvoline, Pennzoil, whatever oil every 5k. It doesn't really matter what oil you use for the most part, especially in modern TGDI/GDI or even MPFI low tension piston ring engines, soot, combustion blow-by, and fuel are bad for your engine, and they make even nastier chemicals when exposed to the extreme heat many modern engines run at, most modern engines run as hot as the material science allows in the name of efficiency.

I find it hard to believe that a modern synthetic oil with multiple manufacturer approvals that is good for duty in 500 horsepower V8s with twin turbos, on an autobahn, in the summer — will break down in a 1.6 liter shooter after 5k miles, leaving varnish all over.

 

[AlphaOmega]

The best oil is clean oil.

A black color of oil says nothing about its protective qualities. Diesel oil is black within minutes.

People driving mostly in city traffic jams should halve oil change interval due to engine hours vs miles accumulated, that’s understood

 

[Phishin]

Wait, so, the car just had what you believe is an oil related failure (I disagree, but more on that in a minute) so your new plan is to dilute the oil with solvent?

Why? How will this help anything?

Astro14: The logic was that if it was an oil related issue that wiped out my cam, perhaps some oil passages were blocked with crud/sludge. And the Kreen might help remove some of this material that could be choking the proper lubrication of my valve train. I don't think a dose of Kreen in heavier than spec oil is really going to do any harm here. Besides, it flashes out pretty quickly.

I've ran 3 doses through the Honda since the cam change AND I'm currently on my 3rd OCI with HPL 5w40 SuperCar!! I'm hoping that the internals are much more clean now. I guess we'll see the next time I open her up.

I'm about to stop running HPL sauce and switch back to M1. I think the shorter (5K OCI's) with M1 should keep the varnish at bay.