2010 Accord--Pitted cam lobe pics
- Thread starter Phishin
- Start date
Based on the fact that the timing components were replaced so early, I have to wonder if the motor was using oil and not topped up regularly during those extended oci intervals.
When I first got my 07 accord with the K24 it was using about 1qt every 1500 - 2000 miles. If I had been going by the olm and not checking the level it most likely would have run low, and from what I understand low oil levels are hard on timing components in these motors.
I am running 10k intervals on M1 5w30, but top off regularly, and from what I can see through the oil fill hole it looks very clean inside. A little nervous after seeing this thread, but the valve cover will be coming off for the first time soon for a valve adjustment at 200k. Currently sitting at 190k.
When I first got my 07 accord with the K24 it was using about 1qt every 1500 - 2000 miles. If I had been going by the olm and not checking the level it most likely would have run low, and from what I understand low oil levels are hard on timing components in these motors.
I am running 10k intervals on M1 5w30, but top off regularly, and from what I can see through the oil fill hole it looks very clean inside. A little nervous after seeing this thread, but the valve cover will be coming off for the first time soon for a valve adjustment at 200k. Currently sitting at 190k.
Any reason for the 9k OCI? Those sludgy photos of the top of the engine look bad.
The longer an oil is in an engine, the dirtier it gets from blowby gases, high heat oxidation, moisture from short trips breeding sludge, fuel dilution, etc. Dirty oil can gum up and leave deposits on oil control rings causing them to seize up and not wipe the oil off the cylinder walls which allows that oil to go into the combustion chamber and causing permanent oil burning once oil control rings are seized. It would cost several thousand dollars to fix. Also, dirty oil can plug up oil passageways / oil pickup screens, and can lower oil pressure to certain parts of the engine.
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It's so nice to see genuine OEM parts. Great purchase decision.
I do the same thing by buying from an online parts department from a brick and morter Honda dealer with close to wholesale prices on their online parts website, and then I give them to my local independent mechanic to install.
I don't like letting the mechanic supply the cheapest after market parts and then marking them up to OEM prices for his extra profit at my expense. Also, I try to avoid dealership service departments, as they charge $200 an hour, mark up the parts 200%, and then charge 2.5 hours labor for a 30 minute job. But I will say, if I was some rich retiring pro sports star looking for a way to invest my money, I would own a new car dealership. Those dealership service departments are infinite cash cows.
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Except a penny left on a rail road track.Yes. Nothing fails from compressive stresses. Somewhere along the line, the tension induced on the surface of the cam exceeded the strength and strong enough to open cracks between the metal itself, then the crack propagated and the piece fell off.
Spalling Damage – About Tribology
www.tribonet.org
The penny didn't fail; it's still in one piece. It was transformed into a different shape by compressive forces.Except a penny left on a rail road track.
The cam didn't fail; it's still opening the valve. It was just transformed into some different shapes by compressive forces.
It's not an oil problem when all the other lobes are doing well.
Any DOHC engine has a lot of splashing oil, and it's not an oil starvation issue either.
Cam lobes are likely induction hardened, and the hardening process failed due to low electrical current in the induction coil covering that lobe. So one soft lobe.
I used to troubleshoot these induction harding "robots".
Any DOHC engine has a lot of splashing oil, and it's not an oil starvation issue either.
Cam lobes are likely induction hardened, and the hardening process failed due to low electrical current in the induction coil covering that lobe. So one soft lobe.
I used to troubleshoot these induction harding "robots".
A small problem with the hard face hardening, and 250,000 miles and 13 years later the cam has failed. Still, not bad.
I recall my Civic cam being spendy. $600-800 sticks in my head. Just for the part (s). Hope you used a good cashback credit card
I've experienced that type of dealership. And also the one I go to currently, which is great. My latest issue (this week) was $375 (but covered by warranty). $165 for diagnosis and detailed notes of what was checked due to codes being thrown. And then the part was $130ish and labor was $25 (it's legit a 15 minute job, at most). Thought it was super fair. The essay of all the vacuum lines and EVAP stuff multimeter values and fuel pump volts and fuel trims and O2 readings and his thoughts and logic as to figuring it out. It was fun to read, honestly. Super transparent.
Dealerships used to be bad but tolerable about 3 years ago, but lately, even the smallest job will end up costing me $450+, so I avoid dealerships with a passon.
My local independent mechanic has 40 years experience, and his diagnoses fee is free, and he charges $80 labor per hour and lets me give him the OEM parts on a 2nd appt after I buy them based on his diagnosis. A lot of times he doesn't even charge me at all for small jobs like putting in headlight/tail light bulbs, etc.
You're lucky. I've found some of the independents to charge as much or more. And use "meh" parts quality. And strip bolts and such that the dealer replaced for free.
So then if a vertical steel post is bulged from excessive compressive loads, that is by definition not a failure?
I'm lost. It fails when the compressive strength is exceeded.
Separation of chunks from the original lobe is a failure, but go ahead and be dense.
You don’t appear to understand compression and tension. When one surface is compressed, the opposite or surrounding surface is put into tension. When a champagne bottle is shaken and explodes, it is not from the internal pressure per se; the inside surface is under compression. This puts the outside surface under tension, since the inside is pushing outward, and essentially stretches the outside surface. If there is a defect from manufacturing or physical damage (a piece of sandpaper or carbide tip is a great way to induce this damage) on the outer surface, the container will likely fail. But it wasn’t the inside surface under compression that failed, it was the surface under tension that failed.
In the case of the cam lobe, the area under direct contact at a given time is in compression. The area of the lobe just outside of contact is under tension. It is the tension that literally rips pieces of the lobe off and results in spalling. This can either happen from excessive spring pressures exceeding the tensile strength of the lobe, or insufficient spring pressure to control the valve and lifter/follower, and these will then bounce on the cam lobe like a jackhammer.
I do wonder, if OP used dino oil instead of synthetic, would we even see manufacturing quality issues, like hardening, being presented?
I thought you were joking around. Are you serious?
