2002 Chevy Silverado 5.3L 350k

[ls1mike]

Originally Posted By: Chris142
I think much more than 5% make 200k here.

Pretty sure that is case here. Tons of them with that kind of miles here in the PACNORWEST. Very little to no rust at all.
When I camp I see a lot of high mileage trucks, gassers and diesels.

 

[Snagglefoot]

Originally Posted By: Chris142
I think much more than 5% make 200k here.


Could be. You take the rust out of the equation plus there are buyers for high mileage trucks around.
I forgot to mention, another thing that takes out trucks in my area is Elk hits. You hit an Elk at highway speed, it's usually written off.

 

[Snagglefoot]

There are 15 million vehicles registered in California. I don't know how many are light trucks but let's say half (3,750,000). If 5% have over 200,000 miles, that would be 187,500. Someone want to count them?

 

[meep]

yeah. I'd keep the checkbook closed and just keep driving it. I would start saving (save the equivalanent of a new car payment) every month to be prepared for when something too big to be worth fixing happens. At the same time I'd keep performing normal maintenance, sounds like an excellent vehicle you'll want around as long as you can.

-m

 

[Snagglefoot]

Whoops, half of 15 million is 7,500,000 and 5% is 375,000 trucks over 200,000 miles. Anecdotal data does not help much.

 

[4WD]

Bunch of them leave our market heading south, way south …

 

[Snagglefoot]

Originally Posted By: 4WD
Bunch of them leave our market heading south, way south …


That would skew the numbers.

 

[4WD]

When BiL’s 5.3L GM reached 400k (Mobil dino) the most worn part was the driver seat

 

[JMJNet]

There is a bigger chance that a mechanic will mess up the engine when they start to fiddle with it.
Leaving it alone until the engine dies or too much money to fix it whichever comes first.

You happen to get the good engine that may last forever.

 

[Gito]

Originally Posted By: Leo99
You got your money's worth out of it. Keep driving it. Rings and valves don't suddenly (usually) leave you stranded on the side of the road. They go gradually and you'll start to burn oil and see smoke and whatnot. Replacing rings or valves would be the expensive. You really love that truck (or you've seen the price of new trucks). That's a lot of money to spend on a truck with that many miles. How is the body and interior looking?


Body is straight. A couple of fender benders 10 years ago but were repaired (painted, bondo).
Driver seat 9upper right shoulder) is torn. Other than that the interior is clean.

Never once did I use Synthetic oil.

The following motor oils have been used:
Castrol GTX 5w-30
Valvoline 5w-30

*Occasionally used the following oils when Castrol or Valvoline were not on sale
Supreme Chevron 5w-30
SuperTech 5w-30

The following oil filters have been used:
AC Delco (for first 200k miles)
Supertech- used this filter when AC Delco was not available)
Wix and Napa Gold- Used for approx 70k miles, alternating SuperTech when not available)
Baldwin- Current filter, started using this filter before hitting 300k but still use SuperTech, Purolator or AC Delco when I run out of Baldwin)

 

[Smokescreen]

There is a Seinfeld episode about a mechanic who wants to do a lot of work...just because:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xez2n371MTo

 

[Snagglefoot]

Oh boy! Your are going to have answer to a lot of disappointed Bitoggers regarding that Dino Oil!

 

[01rangerxl]

If it's not broken, leave it be. Rings and stuff probably won't be the source of problems...if they are, fix it then. If you want to keep the truck, you're better off putting aside some money for it and addressing things as needed.

We still use GMT800s as delivery trucks at work. The two V8s are over 300K and the internal engine stuff is fine. We just fix as needed. One will be getting a new headliner, driver's seat cushion, and windshield soon, but no planned mechanical repairs.

 

[ARB1977]

Congratulations

 

[NYEngineer]

I have a question based on what was said here...
I have a 2009 Suburban with the 5.3 with AFM. Truck has 150,000 miles on it. Runs great, no complaints. Since I take this vehicle on regular trips to Maine, Florida and everywhere in between, I was toying with the idea of getting an AFM removal kit and installing it. Also swapping a non AFM cam and having it taken out of the computer while I'm doing the work. I drive the truck locally in M5 so it's always in 8 cylinder mode and I use a Range Technology AFM disabler when I'm traveling to use sixth gear.
Reason I'm concerned is my brother's Tahoe had one of the AFM lifters fail and ruin the cam. Not what I need while pulling an all nighter through Southern Virginia.
I too am hoping to see 300,000 miles with my truck. OP, I wouldn't mess with it unless it started doing bad things. Then, I'd probably put a fresh engine in it.

 

[clinebarger]

First off....A camshaft change is NOT necessary if it's not damaged. AFM has little to do with camshaft profile.
What's the 8th digit of your VIN?

 

[NYEngineer]

Originally Posted By: clinebarger
First off....A camshaft change is NOT necessary if it's not damaged. AFM has little to do with camshaft profile.
What's the 8th digit of your VIN?



I believe it's 3. The reason I would change the cam was While researching this, I read if you do not, you get 25 psi less cylinder pressure in the four cylinders you replace the AFM lifters in. Supposedly the lobes are ground differently so the lifters follow it better when AFM is activated. If this is not the case then I would certainly leave it in there.

 

[clinebarger]

The AFM lobes have .006" more lift than the non-AFM lobes. This would have little effect on cylinder balance/cylinder pressure. The AFM cylinders having coked-up rings IS an issue & can yield lower cranking compression readings.

If you have a low AFM cylinder cranking compression issue AND a actual leak-down test shows ALL cylinders are within 10% of each other......You have a internal oil leak at the Valley Cover or your trying to use the AFM Valley Cover!

 

[NYEngineer]

Yeah... Engine's bone stock. So I'll leave the cam as is. I'll just get the kit and change the lifters and plate.
Clinebarger, what do you think about the oil pump and the oil in the lower end? I also read that the AFM engine oil pump moves 20% more volume and when the engine is not in AFM mode, it pumps excess oil all over the piston skirts. I saw one thing saying to swap the pump and block the passage. My brother did not change the pump and he installed some kind of diverter that sends the excess oil right back into the pan.

Sorry, OP if I'm hijacking your thread.

 

[littleant]

Originally Posted By: tig1
If it ain't broke don't fix it.
^ right here ^