Originally Posted By: Zaedock
Originally Posted By: maybehabitformin
I wouldnt use anything thicker than 10w30.If it where mine I would use 5w30 the engine specs for 10w30 but that is the old way of thinking.90% of wear is on start up so if you use 5w30 you have less start up wear and its the same viscosity at temp.If that isnt enough look at the car makers back specing lighter oils.Some of you need to read motor oil university.And yes it may give you some gas mileage increase.
You’re assuming that the 90% of wear occurs because of a lack of lubricant flow, which is not the case. The cold moving components, inactivated AW package, and acid buildup from the previous shutdown/cooling all add to startup wear during the next cold start. Also, unless it is very cold out, the flow difference between a 5 and 10 W30 will not be perceptible in this engine design, along with comparing gas mileage between the two grades.
Slanty, having said all that, I think Maxlife 5W30 would be a great choice for your 225. Although the differences between the 5/10W30 in your application would be hard to measure, I'm more of the opinion that 10W30 is obsolete. If it does get "very" cold, you're covered with a 5W30 - so why not run it year round? I have started phasing out most grades besides 5W30 (or 5W20 where applicable) in my oil stash unless I find an exceptional deal. I've been using 5W30 in my trail Jeep for all seasons and it's worked out well (including hard use in Moab, UT). I will say however, that I've had very good results from my Delo SAE30 and 10W40's too (although with a bit more parasitic drag).
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
While it would cost too much to do that with new parts, you probably could pull the entire system from an engine of similar displacement from something on its way to the junk yard. Though one of the main problems in doing it that way is the wiring harness requirement.
Jim, I have seen a Jeep 4.0L engine management system installed on a 225 and it ran great. I don’t remember how they modified the distributor, but as both engines share the same firing order, I’d bet it wasn’t too bad to do.
To the OP, there you go, a low cost way to get better MPGs, though is is more complicated than just selecting an oil.
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BTW there is a ballace resistor on the ignition system and they can burn out anytime.
The 60's versions of the 225 and its smaller brother had a single resistor. The 70's versions have a duel resistor set-up. It is a white ceramic module mounted to the fire-wall by one bolt. There are two electric connections (one on each side) and each has two electric connections. One of those resistors is used to supply a hotter spark during starting. The other is used during run.
If the start resistor burns out you will not have spark while cranking.
If the run resistor burns out you will get spark during cranking, but as soon as you stop cranking you will have no spark and the engine will die.
Get a spare ballace resistor module and put in in the glove box. If the one on the vehicle dies you can swap in the new one without even bolting it to the firewall initally just to get the vehicle going, and then bolt it when you get a chance.
Those ballace resistors are about the only problem with the 225. So just get a spare and put it in the glove box. I had one in my 1976 Volare, and during the first year of driving the resistor did burn out. I was in the middle of nowhere with nothing but snow a far as the eye could see. I poped the hood, unsnapped both electric connections from the original and snapped in the new one and was back on my way. Bolted the new one down the next day when I could get a socket and ratchet. I got an other new ballace resistor and put that in the glove box. Drove it for years and left that second new ballace resistor in the glove box when I sold it.
One day a 60's Chrysler station wagon was going up the hill in front of my house and it died right in the middle of the street. I was on the porch, and said to the owner, it probably is the ballace resistor. If you give me ten bucks, I will drive down the hill to the auto store and bring back a ballace resistor and your change. He did, and we snapped it in and it fired right up.
So get a new spare duel ballace resistor and put it the glove box. It is cheep insurance that will get that vehicle going in a few minutes if you ever need it.
