Another oil recommendation thread!
I have a '99 Ford Ranger XLT with a 2.5L I4 with 195k miles on it. I blew a head gasket and damaged the head so I did a full rebuild of the engine.
All the bores are standard, had the cylinder walls honed. New Sealed Power rings, new Clevite bearings in the cam, rods, and crank. New seals all around. New valves and valve seals. Oil pump is original.
I'm running Shell Rotella T 15-W40 for my startup/break in fluid. I did the same when I rebuilt my Miata, in retrospect perhaps specific break in oil would be ideal but I went with what I was used to.
I'm not a brand loyalist other than I like to stick with what I've been using (apart from break in oil.) I run Valvoline Max Life Dex/Mex ATF in the trans, Mobile 1 Syn 75-W140 in the diff, and NAPA brand Dex/Mex ATF in the power steering system. So I'm open to whatever brand, I just plan on sticking with it after I drop it in.
In another 1k miles I plan on dumping the Rotella and switching to factory recommended 5-W30 and going Full Synthetic. The engine will not be driven hard, just a daily commuter and occasional hauler. I doubt I'll ever see the 6k rev limiter or even go above 5k, so no abuse or racing. I'm using Purolator Pure One filters which I saw was quite recommended on this site along with Wix. I'm fine ordering online or going to a store, I have tons of auto shops near me and of course a Wally World. I'd ideally like to go 5k on an oil change, 7.5 or 10k if possible but that feels like a stretch goal with such an old engine, even with new bearings and seals.
My initial thought was just run to the local Auto Zone and grab a few 5qt jugs of Mobil 1 Syn and call it a day. Any reason I should look at any other brands or even weights? I see a lot about 0-W30 around the forums but haven't been able to find a reason why go for 0 when the factory rec was 5wt?
Thank you for your time.
I have a '99 Ford Ranger XLT with a 2.5L I4 with 195k miles on it. I blew a head gasket and damaged the head so I did a full rebuild of the engine.
All the bores are standard, had the cylinder walls honed. New Sealed Power rings, new Clevite bearings in the cam, rods, and crank. New seals all around. New valves and valve seals. Oil pump is original.
I'm running Shell Rotella T 15-W40 for my startup/break in fluid. I did the same when I rebuilt my Miata, in retrospect perhaps specific break in oil would be ideal but I went with what I was used to.
I'm not a brand loyalist other than I like to stick with what I've been using (apart from break in oil.) I run Valvoline Max Life Dex/Mex ATF in the trans, Mobile 1 Syn 75-W140 in the diff, and NAPA brand Dex/Mex ATF in the power steering system. So I'm open to whatever brand, I just plan on sticking with it after I drop it in.
In another 1k miles I plan on dumping the Rotella and switching to factory recommended 5-W30 and going Full Synthetic. The engine will not be driven hard, just a daily commuter and occasional hauler. I doubt I'll ever see the 6k rev limiter or even go above 5k, so no abuse or racing. I'm using Purolator Pure One filters which I saw was quite recommended on this site along with Wix. I'm fine ordering online or going to a store, I have tons of auto shops near me and of course a Wally World. I'd ideally like to go 5k on an oil change, 7.5 or 10k if possible but that feels like a stretch goal with such an old engine, even with new bearings and seals.
My initial thought was just run to the local Auto Zone and grab a few 5qt jugs of Mobil 1 Syn and call it a day. Any reason I should look at any other brands or even weights? I see a lot about 0-W30 around the forums but haven't been able to find a reason why go for 0 when the factory rec was 5wt?
Thank you for your time.
