1970 Mach 1 oil?

[demarpaint]

Any good 10W30 or 10W40 should be fine, in Texas. I would however add some ZDDP to the mix, Red Line and Rislone make it. Broken or not those old engines like the ZDDP according to numerous conversations I've had with highly respected people here and in the industry.

 

[ragtoplvr]

This engine was originally designed for leaded fuel. It has probably been updated but still may have some minor issues.

Make sure ALL the flex hoses (the one from gas tank to steel line often overlooked), mechanical fuel pump and carburetor float, needle and diaphragm are changed to alcohol tolerant. There is a choke pull off, and a vacuum advance on the distributor, they also need to be alcohol tolerant, as well as the vacuum lines and the PVC line. Even the vent line from gas tank, and lines to the charcoal canister if still there need changed.

Most motorcycle engines are flat tappet so just get some 10W40 MA2 rated motorcycle oil. It will work excellent Castrol Activo 4T 10W40 is economical and a very good oil.

If you can get it Bardhol Instead o Lead Gold has MMT a metallic additive that really does increase octane and lubricates valves, not as good as lead but pretty decent.

Or a bit of TCW oil in the fuel, ¼ to ½ OZ per gallon.

Try to burn no alcohol premium as much as possible.

Congrats.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

This is very simple. Lots of BAD choices related above.

Here is the SECRET and don't tell anybody.

No diesel oil, you'll loose power, and its just not right.

No MB225.xx Euro oil (0w40) too much detergent for long sump life which causes too much wear.

M1 HM isn't synthetic, though XOM HM 10w30 is A3B3 and sports a higher HTHS than ILSAC garbage; I Cannot professionally NOT recommend that!

Simple your favororite Motorcycle 4T (40 grade) Loaded with that ZDP YOU WANT AND USUALLY API SJ Service.

Another choice for cars with some road racing thrown in would be Mercury or similar 25w40 4 stroke inboard boat V8 engine juice. Loaded with goodies for high load over long time.

Many will say Amsoil has a good choice, never tried it may be sweet.

 

[FCD]

Amsoil Z-Rod 10W-40.
Valvoline VR1 10W-30.
Mobil Delvac 15W-40
Shell Rotella 15W-40.
I would not use any Mobil 1 oil but the 15W-50, because of the ZDDP.

 

[Kira]

Is this the same car as in the parking lot chase scene in the James Bond film, "Diamonds Are Forever"?

 

[dnewton3]

Originally Posted By: Kira
Is this the same car as in the parking lot chase scene in the James Bond film, "Diamonds Are Forever"?


No - that Bond car is a 1971 model (71-73).
The OP seems to have the 1970 (69-70) model.

 

[BrocLuno]

The OP is in Texas. It'll get nasty hot there in the summer. He'll be cruising in 110* heat and he'll be on long stretch where it can be let to run. Don't know the rear gear, but let's say it's 3.55 ... He'll be taching 3,500~4,000 at 90, so foaming is a possibility. The heat will push the 40 down to where "normal" street driven cars run their pan temps. 50 might still be to thick for the pump drive at non-track temps ...

Fords have a somewhat tender pump drive. Bad things happen when it breaks. So I err on the side of caution too. The oil pump may be HV or HP, adding stress to the drive. So I'm sticking with HDEO with 40 as the top viscosity. If the bearings are 0.0025 clearance, I'm quite happy with a stout 30.

VR-1 is a standout oil for this motor. Brad Penn is another. My suggestions of others were to give him options, if neither is easily obtainable locally. Mystic is at most TSC stores, so that's easy

The Chevron stuff might not be ... But could be as easy as VR-1 or Brad Penn ...

I'll stay out of the Mobil1 discussion. But I will say that there is a pretty good chance that this engine will be noisy on cold start with any full synthetic ... If it's going to be parked for extended periods, I'd want a high quality dino oil in there with very high residual film strength.

 

[jongies3]

Nice, I have a '69 myself! It has a remanufactured engine with roller cams in it so I can run a modern SN oil without problems. I recommend a HDEO for older flat tappet cams though.

 

[DuckRyder]

Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
...
Fords have a somewhat tender pump drive. Bad things happen when it breaks. So I err on the side of caution too. The oil pump may be HV or HP, adding stress to the drive. ...


That is a fact... Unless it has an upgraded pump drive (like ARP) I would advise caution with overly heavy oils even more so if it has a HP/HV pump.

 

[jayg]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
This is very simple. Lots of BAD choices related above.

Here is the SECRET and don't tell anybody.

No diesel oil, you'll loose power, and its just not right.[/b}

No MB225.xx Euro oil (0w40) too much detergent for long sump life which causes too much wear.

M1 HM isn't synthetic, though XOM HM 10w30 is A3B3 and sports a higher HTHS than ILSAC garbage; I Cannot professionally NOT recommend that!

Simple your favororite Motorcycle 4T (40 grade) Loaded with that ZDP YOU WANT AND USUALLY API SJ Service.

Another choice for cars with some road racing thrown in would be Mercury or similar 25w40 4 stroke inboard boat V8 engine juice. Loaded with goodies for high load over long time.

Many will say Amsoil has a good choice, never tried it may be sweet.



Some ridiculous advice here. Have you ever dynoed a car? I've taken dozens of cars to the rollers with Rotella and other "diesel" oils in them and they didn't "lose power".

A Rotella or Maxlife HD diesel 40 weight at operating temp is a 40 wt oil. The same as a 10w40 PCMO is at operating temp. So many Subarus making the same power with less burn off on HDEO's than other PCMOs. I've made the same power on Rotella T6 than I did with M1 15w50 with my old Galant VR-4 rally car. At operating temp in a performance engine just about any motor oil is going to be within a few percent of HP and TQ.


The engine doesn't lose power because it says it's suitable for diesel vehicles on the bottle. Why would you even fabricate that?

Is your logic Diesels are slow and so adding diesel rated oil to a performance car will make it slow?

Euro Castrol can't work well in a Corvette because they are American cars? I've read some pretty silly stuff on here over the years and it just keeps delivering.


Do you have any actual experience with race cars or dyno testing or do you just make things up from years of reading conjecture on this forum?

 

[BAJA_05]

Castrol Edge 5W50

 

[MParr]

Valvoline VR1 10w30
Lucas Hot Rod and Classic

 

[SAJEFFC]

Wow lots of great replies and advice! Sorry for the delayed response but work's been crazy. I pick up the car tomorrow so will find out more details on the rebuild if it has in fact been rebuilt. I'm leaning towards the VFR1
myself. Will get back with everyone next week with pics!! Nice 1969 that was posted!

 

[FCD]

VR1 10W-30 will serve that engine beautifully, high Total base number which should help with engines that aren't started very often, and it has plenty of Zddp to keep the camshaft happy.

 

[379KITTY]

I would (and do) use 15w-40 or 20w-50 in older non-roller cam engines that are NOT daily drivers, therefore won't see cold starts and/or immediate driving in COLD temps. Especially in TX. Take your pick: Delvac, Delo, Rotella, Brad Penn, VR1 etc. I'm more comfortable with the heavier viscosities and somewhat higher ZDDP in this scenario.

I do think the thinner/newer spec oils have their place over and above fuel economy, such as cold starts in freezing/subfreezing weather along with little or no warmup time by a hurried driver. Not your scenario. Nice car!