wife drove 08 Sienna with low oil for 2 days, with loud tapping

Now back to the BITOG topic. What oil I should buy??
(1) ST all mileage 5W-30 (10W??) jugs
(2) havoline high mileage blend box 5W30
(3) M1 high mileage 12qt box

Any recommendation for this potentially worn out engine?
 
As soon as I read the original post I guessed what it was. The 2GR-FE is a great engine but unfortunately those rubber oil cooler lines (and the VVTi line) are its achilles' heel in some years. You were actually very, very fortunate, when that line goes, it frequently goes catastrophically and the engine is not realistically salvageable.

As for oil, I use Mobil 1 ESP 0w30 in my 2GR-FE Sienna, no complaints. 5k OCI.
 
Wow, you are really lucky! Mine busted on Highlander and "all" the oil was gone in the parking lot.

Replaced with metal lines only to find out Toyota has an entire kit that is cheaper than the individual
lines. The Car Care Nut has a video on YouTube.

There is also another rubber line that you need to check out. It's on the passenger side and it may be a
transmission line that was converted from rubber to metal in subsequent model years. It may be an oil line
but I don't think it is. It's on the same video I mentioned above.
 
A video reference for those who don't know about the 2GR V6 oil line


If you have the older rubber unit, or are out of the LSC coverage, I recommend proactive replacement to the OE metal kit

Don't lose a good engine over a minor part


Dorman also makes a metal replacement kit if you are OK with Dorman. I know they are hit or miss but price and availability might be better than going to the dealer.
 
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Dorman also makes a metal replacement kit if you are OK with Dorman. I know they are hit or miss but price and availability might be better than going to the dealer.
Just get it from the dealer. It’s a quality part with gaskets.
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My daughter ran her 2016 Hyundai SantaFe 3.3 V-6 virtually out of oil. She said it made racket for a week. This included interstate driving :oops: .
So I changed what little was there. Used QSUD 5-30 and a can of Liqui Moly additive. Have added that LiquiMoly every oil change since. That was almost two years ago. Now pushing 140K. Run regularly on the Interstate.
So far so good.
Use LiquiMoly every OC.
 
I'd use Mobil 1 0W40 or 5W40 in it.
Makes sense... so bigger clearance deserves thicker oil.

On the contrary, I was thinking, for the 2 or 3 shorter OCIs before I get back to ordinary OCI with thicker oil, maybe I go through some 5W-20? (or even 0W-20) So thinner oil can (1) shoot more oil to the overhead cam area for better washing (2) more chance metal debris to come down to the pan?
Does it make any sense to you guys???
 
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Makes sense... so bigger clearance deserves thicker oil.

On the contrary, I was thinking, for the 2 or 3 shorter OCIs before I get back to ordinary OCI with thicker oil, maybe I go through some 5W-20? (or even 0W-20) So thinner oil can (1) shoot more oil to the overhead cam area for better washing (2) more chance metal debris to come down to the pan?
Does it make any sense to you guys???
I think Mobil 1 0W40 will do a great job cleaning things up, and provide better protection while it is doing the cleaning, especially in your case. On the contrary if you feel the 20 grade oils you mentioned are going to do a better job, go for it. I wouldn't.
 
Makes sense... so bigger clearance deserves thicker oil.

On the contrary, I was thinking, for the 2 or 3 shorter OCIs before I get back to ordinary OCI with thicker oil, maybe I go through some 5W-20? (or even 0W-20) So thinner oil can (1) shoot more oil to the overhead cam area for better washing (2) more chance metal debris to come down to the pan?
Does it make any sense to you guys???
ALL oil is thin when it's hot. A well-functioning oil pump puts out X Flow rate, no matter if the oil is thin or thick. You may observe higher oil pressure with a slightly higher viscosity, but the flow will still be X. Depending upon where you look, you could have the pump "shoot more" in some areas by using a slightly higher viscosity that results in higher pressure. I think you're overthinking it...the engine will survive the previous abuse or not, no matter what you do with viscosity at this point.
 
ALL oil is thin when it's hot. A well-functioning oil pump puts out X Flow rate, no matter if the oil is thin or thick. You may observe higher oil pressure with a slightly higher viscosity, but the flow will still be X. Depending upon where you look, you could have the pump "shoot more" in some areas by using a slightly higher viscosity that results in higher pressure. I think you're overthinking it...the engine will survive the previous abuse or not, no matter what you do with viscosity at this point.
Above certain oil pressure, the relieve valve opens and oil (partially) won't go through. And thicker oil hits the trigger at lower flow rate. Lower viscosity oil always gets pumped more in volume at high RPMs
 
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Above certain oil pressure, the relieve valve opens and oil (partially) won't go through the oil filter. And thicker oil hits the trigger at lower flow rate. Lower viscosity oil always gets pumped more in volume at high RPMs
The PRV in a filter will only bypass filter media … it’s not a relief valve for the whole system … Rate is RPM based if winter rating is appropriate - except modern pumps have stages tied to ECM (demand) …
Anything else is distribution of said flow …

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The PRV in a filter will only bypass filter media … it’s not a relief valve for the whole system … Rate is RPM based if winter rating is appropriate - except modern pumps have stages tied to ECM (demand) …
Anything else is distribution of said flow …

View attachment 178441
Sorry I mixed up filter valve and pump valve. Filter valve is, as you said, only for bypassing the filter media. But the pump relief, i believe, relieves some oil back to the pan. In that loop, higher visc oil triggers the valve at lower volume flow rate. Or am I misunderstanding it?
 
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Sorry I mixed up filter valve and pump valve. Filter valve is, as you said, only for bypassing the filter media. But the pump relief, i believe, relieves some oil back to the pan. In that loop, higher visc oil triggers the valve at loert volume flow rate. Or am I misunderstanding it?
That’s correct - the graph shows bypassed oil …
A rule of thumb in hydraulics is a 25% viscosity change only yields a 4% increase in residual pressure - so unless far below zero outside - viscosity has but a minor effect … (ID, length, rate = larger impacts)
 
That’s correct - the graph shows bypassed oil …
A rule of thumb in hydraulics is a 25% viscosity change only yields a 4% increase in residual pressure - so unless far below zero outside - viscosity has but a minor effect … (ID, length, rate = larger impacts)
SAE30 is 35% higher in viscousity over SAE20. I don't think the difference is trivial
 
This is a good example of not "jumping the gun" and telling anyone their engine is ruined before a repair & refill is done. No need to panic prematurely. I would guess if the noises have stopped and everything is now tight, that engine can still run a long time. I would drive on and not stress until there is a real reason to.
 
SAE30 is 35% higher in viscousity over SAE20. I don't think the difference is trivial
What 4WD is explaining is that there is not a linear relationship between viscosity and hydraulic (oil) pressure. 35% greater viscosity is going in to yield ~5% more pressure. Whether or not this increase in pressure is a non-trivial factor for the proper running of a particular engine depends on multiple factors.
 
Above certain oil pressure, the relieve valve opens and oil (partially) won't go through. And thicker oil hits the trigger at lower flow rate. Lower viscosity oil always gets pumped more in volume at high RPMs
...and at what RPM do you (or in this case, your wife) run this potentially buggered engine? I think you are straining at gnats (as the old saying goes). 20 or 30 weight at operating temp are nearly the same viscosity...the difference is hard to measure they are so close when at operating temp. One could argue that the increased DENSITY of the thicker oil is important to "wash" the particles off the surfaces. Nah...I'm not going to buy that one just like I don't think a 20 weight is going to give you more washing effect than the 30 weight.
 
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