10k on conventional

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You won't know until you try it. 10K miles on conventional is pushing the limits of common accepted wisdom, but if it's steady highway miles, no towing, and southern summer driving, it should be fine. if the motor uses 1qt in 10K miles, you might want to delay the first "top-up" until 4-6K miles, to inject some fresh oil into the sump when you are half-way to the next change. Top-up "and then some) again at 7-8K miles to do the same.

Keep an eye on the oil monitor, but if it triggers at 11K miles with your use, you should be good to go.
I've heard of some people using extended drain intervals, and changing the filter-only, at the half-way or 2/3-way point, and topping up the oil, as the filter will fill to capacity before the oil loses its additive package in most cases.
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
Don't do it.

Coming from someone who uses M1 in everything ... What else would we expect you to say?
 
You could run a crankcase flush. If you get chunks of nasty out when you drain you know you need to shorten the interval.
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It's probably fine. 10w-30 is a nice low VII grade and SN is a step above what your OLM was programmed around. You might step up the filter, but it sounds like you've already oversized it slightly? If that's the case then just keep doing what your doing. UOA would be nice
 
Originally Posted By: Triton_330
But I wouldn't do it with a standard tier filter.

I definitely wouldn't run a standard AC Delco to 10k, regardless of the type of oil.


Care to elaborate your opinion with some facts?

10k is nothing for 95% of the oil filters out there.
 
I wouldn't go 10K miles on conventional oil if that was my OCI for a synthetic oil. I'd probably cut the OCI by at least 25%, maybe more.
 
Quote:
... Would you?

Since you asked, as a one time thing likely ok however I wouldn't make standard practice of it. For conventional, 5-6k miles/1 year is my preference. Ran mostly Motorcraft Syn Blend 5w20 on 01 Civic, later whatever majors conventional at ~6k mi. oci. At ~170k mi valvetrain looked good, golden hue to it.

At 10k mile oci, I'd prefer using synthetic. Many can be had ~$15 or less a jug with a rebate. Just picked up some O'R Havoline ProDS Syn for ~$10 a jug on closeout.
 
It will be fine, just keep it topped off. You can't kill a 4.3 unless you actually run it with no oil.
 
Originally Posted By: Tony10s
Originally Posted By: tig1
Don't do it.

Coming from someone who uses M1 in everything ... What else would we expect you to say?


Using M1 or other quality synthetic oils is no problem for 10K OCIs, but that's a sure bet for varnish and possible sludge build up with dino.IMO.
 
Personally that oil is so inexpensive that I would use a Fram Ultra for two OCI's and change the oil at every 7500 miles or so. You would save on a filter change and you can't beat the filter.
 
Would I, no, because synthetic is cheap when you watch for deals and such.
But for your driving conditions, I don't see why not.
Originally Posted By: AirgunSavant
Personally that oil is so inexpensive that I would use a Fram Ultra for two OCI's and change the oil at every 7500 miles or so. You would save on a filter change and you can't beat the filter.

I was going to say the same, use a Fram Ultra for 2 oil changes, except just change the oil every 10K.

10k in 6 months is a lot of driving. I barely do that in a year between 2 vehicles now.
Although I did used to drive around 18K/year before I switched jobs, and my wife was around 12k/yr before she quit, so I guess not that much.
 
Originally Posted By: tig1


Using M1 or other quality synthetic oils is no problem for 10K OCIs, but that's a sure bet for varnish and possible sludge build up with dino.IMO.


To be fair, no reasonable person is going to expect you to vouch for 10K conventional or not mention M1 in every post....
 
Originally Posted By: Joenpb
Not a fan of saving pennies at the expense of my engine.


Me neither, but I don't live in San Diego either.
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I don't particularly enjoy doing oil changes in the winter, unless it's one of these abnormal winters we've been getting. Therefore taking advantage of the manufacturers recommended OCI has practical benefits.
 
I've done it with the same oil. No analysis yet but I'm following my computer and it is based on any oil that meets the spec. By all accounts, the Chevron product is high-quality oil with a good additive package.

You have to understand you are asking the OCD oil gang.
 
GM apparently thought it was okay since that's the spec around which they designed the OLM algorithm.
Given the always moderate climate in which you live and the way you use the vehicle, you should be fine.
Would I use a cheap after MIR syn and a better filter?
Probably.
Do you have some varnish going on in there?
For sure.
Is it doing any harm?
Surely not, although you'll never be able to post pretty pictures of the valvetrain with a cover removed.
IMHO, no harm in doing what you propose.
 
Originally Posted By: AirgunSavant
Personally that oil is so inexpensive that I would use a Fram Ultra for two OCI's and change the oil at every 7500 miles or so. You would save on a filter change and you can't beat the filter.


Bingo--we have a winner--follow AS's advice
Steve
 
Originally Posted By: steve20
Originally Posted By: AirgunSavant
Personally that oil is so inexpensive that I would use a Fram Ultra for two OCI's and change the oil at every 7500 miles or so. You would save on a filter change and you can't beat the filter.


Bingo--we have a winner--follow AS's advice
Steve


Thank you sir!
 
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