0W20 M1 AFE vs 0W20 Toyota synthetic?

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Originally Posted By: buster
I agree that we can not truly determine what is better but I stand by myopinions. Also, M1 0w20 does meet ACEA A1/B1-08.


You're right-I was thinking A5. Fact is though, you don't know that the Toyota oil doesn't meet the spec.

Originally Posted By: buster
So where is your proof the Toyota oil is better? And don't make the mistake of singling out the viscosity index.


I'm not the one making unsubstantiated claims, you are.
 
Originally Posted By: buster
I agree that we can not truly determine what is better but I stand by myopinions. Also, M1 0w20 does meet ACEA A1/B1-08.

So where is your proof the Toyota oil is better? And don't make the mistake of singling out the viscosity index.


I never said it was did I? All I said was that facts are needed to make a proper comparison, not opinions, or anecdotal evidence.
 
Originally Posted By: JOD
Fact is though, you don't know that the Toyota oil doesn't meet the spec.


This debate comes up on here a lot about different oils. Oil A says it meets the spec, Oil B doesn't.

From that, we're left to determine whether that means Oil B cannot meet the spec, or the manufacturer chooses not to bother finding out.

And then the two camps set up on BITOG - one that says it could but they don't bother, the other that leaves it up to speculation.

The fact is, one oil meets the spec, the other doesn't. Beyond that, it's a useless exercise to compare on that basis.

If I made an oil that for all intents and purposes looked really great, but it didn't list a single spec, would you believe that it met them all? I don't know the answer to that.
 
HI buster:
I not see GM4718 anywhere in the M1 AFE 0w20 product detail. also Mobil only state the fluid "meet or exceed" the GM6094 spec. Does GM still have 4718m is still the current spec or it's supersede by something else?
 
+1 !!

I just chalk off the the subliminal commercials by the
M1 fanboys who just hate to see their wonderous miracle juice
bested by a formulation XOM makes, but specified by Toyota.

Like the lyrics of an old song....."Ain't it a shame....." !!!!
 
LOL

This is really a pointless topic because it's really not possible to determine. As I said before they are both great oils. The Toyota oil is very unique and has shown to hold up very well. I'll leave it at that.
smile.gif
 
While both oils have certain advantages what no one has mentioned is that the Toyota oil shears very quickly. In fact, this is probably why Toyota/Lexus won't back spec their 0W-20 for my GS400 but will their 5W-20. Just some food for thought.
 
Originally Posted By: Capa
While both oils have certain advantages what no one has mentioned is that the Toyota oil shears very quickly. In fact, this is probably why Toyota/Lexus won't back spec their 0W-20 for my GS400 but will their 5W-20. Just some food for thought.

That doesn't apply here since the Toyota 0W-20 IS specified for the OP's application.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: ringmaster
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
The two oils were compared here:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2409119&page=4

They're both high quality oils made by XOM.
In Canada the Toyota oil half the price of M1.


Thanks - I knew that you would know
smile.gif


Maybe I will mix the two 50/50...seriously! The M1's low MRV really appeals to me but if the Toyota oil is higher in moly I don't want to miss out on the benefits.

Yes M1 0W-20 has a very low MRV but the MRV of M1 0W-40 (31,000cP) is not so great and we have an number of Cdn made 0W-30 and 0W-40 oils that are better such as the PAO based XD-3 0W-30 (MRV 14,900, HTHS 3.5cP).

So you've got a number of competing factors here.
If you're trying to make the lowest MRV 0W-30 I wouldn't be using M1 0W-40.

ringmaster, sorry for the 0W-40 reference, I think I was getting confused with another thread.
Yes I don't see a problem in a blend of the two oils.
 
Originally Posted By: Capa
While both oils have certain advantages what no one has mentioned is that the Toyota oil shears very quickly. In fact, this is probably why Toyota/Lexus won't back spec their 0W-20 for my GS400 but will their 5W-20. Just some food for thought.


Does it shear? I honestly haven't noticed.

Most synthetics use some amount of viscosity modifiers. Some more so than others. Even M1 0w20 dips into the 7.6 cSt range at times.

I'm sure through extensive testing, it's shown not to be a problem in an engine that specs a 0w20.
 
I'm still thinking of using the Toyota 0w20 in the Honda. Why? Well my commute is only 14 miles to work and I don't drive that aggressively anymore so I figure the lighter the oil the better, in this situation. It's a 20 grade oil so it should work well. I'm curious.

Splitting hairs here....:)
 
Originally Posted By: buster
Originally Posted By: Capa
While both oils have certain advantages what no one has mentioned is that the Toyota oil shears very quickly. In fact, this is probably why Toyota/Lexus won't back spec their 0W-20 for my GS400 but will their 5W-20. Just some food for thought.


Does it shear? I honestly haven't noticed.

Most synthetics use some amount of viscosity modifiers. Some more so than others. Even M1 0w20 dips into the 7.6 cSt range at times.

I'm sure through extensive testing, it's shown not to be a problem in an engine that specs a 0w20.


It definitely shears quickly and quite a bit. In fact, IIRC Caterham himself statedthat he had never seen an oil shear either so much or so quickly.
 
Originally Posted By: Capa


It definitely shears quickly and quite a bit. In fact, IIRC Caterham himself statedthat he had never seen an oil shear either so much or so quickly.


It was 'quickly', not 'much', IIRC - as in it sheared quickly, but not much.
 
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Yes the Nippon Oil version of the Toyota 0W-20 I ran sheared almost immediatedly in service about 10% and then stabilized. This is consistent with the UOA's of the oil at the time.
I concluded at the time that this was by design. What's important is that the oil stabilized dispite some heavy track use. I wouldn't consider this a lot.
There are plenty of UOAs of M1 0W-20 with more shear than that.
 
If it was my vehicle, I would run M1 0w20 for the winter and Toyota 0w-20 the rest of the year. I get a quite a few -20 C starts during winter. If it wasn't the case, I'd use Toyota all year round it costs me $28 and change for a 5L jug in Canada where M1 is $47 for a 4.4L jug.
 
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