Out of these two oils, why wouldn't you use the 5w20 over the 0w20 when the properties are almost identical but the Noack is far superior... Should consideration be given to the V.I. difference?
Your thoughts?
Your thoughts?
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0w20 & 5w20 almost identical oil properties
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Please explain why?
I was asking the question in case I'm missing something between these numbers that might be worthwhile using the 0w20 over the 5w20.
I was asking the question in case I'm missing something between these numbers that might be worthwhile using the 0w20 over the 5w20.
Noack is the biggest difference
Why? In very simple terms, maybe some of us live where it is insanely cold during the winter, like parts of Canada, and they actually can benefit from a 0W20 grade. Other places where it isn't insanely cold the 5W20 might be better suited.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Why? Well maybe some of us live where it is insanely cold during the winter, like parts of Canada, and they actually can benefit from a 0W20 grade. Other places where it isn't insanely cold the 5W20 might be better suited.
But given the specs above would the 0w20 be beneficial over the 5w20 given the trade off is the Noack? I mean I could understand if you were in the Yukon or something but the majority of our population live near the border and while it can be cold I can't see 0w20 making that much of a difference over 5w20.
Why? Well maybe some of us live where it is insanely cold during the winter, like parts of Canada, and they actually can benefit from a 0W20 grade. Other places where it isn't insanely cold the 5W20 might be better suited.
But given the specs above would the 0w20 be beneficial over the 5w20 given the trade off is the Noack? I mean I could understand if you were in the Yukon or something but the majority of our population live near the border and while it can be cold I can't see 0w20 making that much of a difference over 5w20.
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Here are the TGMO 0w20 specs for comparison. Source: PQIA
I'm not going to go back and try to find this, but there was a discussion recently on this topic where a paper was posted showing that timing chain wear decreases as you move from 0W-XX to 5W, and again from 5W to 10W. Maybe someone might know where that discussion was and post the link.
Originally Posted By: JustN89
I'm not going to go back and try to find this, but there was a discussion recently on this topic where a paper was posted showing that timing chain wear decreases as you move from 0W-XX to 5W, and again from 5W to 10W. Maybe someone might know where that discussion was and post the link.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3161863/1
I'm not going to go back and try to find this, but there was a discussion recently on this topic where a paper was posted showing that timing chain wear decreases as you move from 0W-XX to 5W, and again from 5W to 10W. Maybe someone might know where that discussion was and post the link.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3161863/1
Thanks Brian.
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Why? Well maybe some of us live where it is insanely cold during the winter, like parts of Canada, and they actually can benefit from a 0W20 grade. Other places where it isn't insanely cold the 5W20 might be better suited.
But given the specs above would the 0w20 be beneficial over the 5w20 given the trade off is the Noack? I mean I could understand if you were in the Yukon or something but the majority of our population live near the border and while it can be cold I can't see 0w20 making that much of a difference over 5w20.
I answered the question, in insane cold the 0W20 would have the edge. Me I'd use a 5W30.
but that wasn't a choice.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Why? Well maybe some of us live where it is insanely cold during the winter, like parts of Canada, and they actually can benefit from a 0W20 grade. Other places where it isn't insanely cold the 5W20 might be better suited.
But given the specs above would the 0w20 be beneficial over the 5w20 given the trade off is the Noack? I mean I could understand if you were in the Yukon or something but the majority of our population live near the border and while it can be cold I can't see 0w20 making that much of a difference over 5w20.
I answered the question, in insane cold the 0W20 would have the edge. Me I'd use a 5W30.
Zee09
$200 Site Donor 2023
My cars all note to use 0w20 and other weights can be used if no 0w20 can be found ( until you locate 0w)
I always find 5w20 instead
Always!
On my cars including a Hybrid- I have zero mpg penalty.
In the early days of 0w20 the penalty was it was from $8-$10 more expensive (5 qts) - Why bother?
I always find 5w20 instead
On my cars including a Hybrid- I have zero mpg penalty.
In the early days of 0w20 the penalty was it was from $8-$10 more expensive (5 qts) - Why bother?
I'm assuming the reason they want 0w20 and say that 5w20 is suitable but that you need to go back to 0w20 is to ensure synthetic is used instead.
Zee09
$200 Site Donor 2023
I think so. Now we have SS 0W20's
A good reason to use 0W-20.
Originally Posted By: StevieC
I'm assuming the reason they want 0w20 and say that 5w20 is suitable but that you need to go back to 0w20 is to ensure synthetic is used instead.
And you would be assuming wrong. CAFE requirements require that for the manufacturer to get the proper CAFE credits, then the manual needs to specifically say what oil needs to be used across the fleet. No more temperature or thickness tables of other suitable thickness oils. One oil recommendation, that's it.
I'm assuming the reason they want 0w20 and say that 5w20 is suitable but that you need to go back to 0w20 is to ensure synthetic is used instead.
And you would be assuming wrong. CAFE requirements require that for the manufacturer to get the proper CAFE credits, then the manual needs to specifically say what oil needs to be used across the fleet. No more temperature or thickness tables of other suitable thickness oils. One oil recommendation, that's it.
Originally Posted By: JustN89
I'm not going to go back and try to find this, but there was a discussion recently on this topic where a paper was posted showing that timing chain wear decreases as you move from 0W-XX to 5W, and again from 5W to 10W. Maybe someone might know where that discussion was and post the link.
I saw the same one...good luck finding it I did not.
Stevie if we can locate the article it would make a good argument for the 5w-20. But in your northern clime the 0w-20 in winter would be a better choice IMO.
I'm not going to go back and try to find this, but there was a discussion recently on this topic where a paper was posted showing that timing chain wear decreases as you move from 0W-XX to 5W, and again from 5W to 10W. Maybe someone might know where that discussion was and post the link.
I saw the same one...good luck finding it I did not.
Stevie if we can locate the article it would make a good argument for the 5w-20. But in your northern clime the 0w-20 in winter would be a better choice IMO.
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Originally Posted By: StevieC
Out of these two oils, why wouldn't you use the 5w20 over the 0w20 when the properties are almost identical but the Noack is far superior... Should consideration be given to the V.I. difference?
Your thoughts?
*Historic school of thought was that the lower the NOACK - the lower the evaporation thus the cleaner intake valves would stay in a GDI engine application ...Now I don't know ? A recent post indicated that a higher NOACK could benefit intake valves in a GDI engine application due to non deposits being the evaporation make up to keep intake valves clean (or something to that affect) .
Out of these two oils, why wouldn't you use the 5w20 over the 0w20 when the properties are almost identical but the Noack is far superior... Should consideration be given to the V.I. difference?
Your thoughts?
*Historic school of thought was that the lower the NOACK - the lower the evaporation thus the cleaner intake valves would stay in a GDI engine application ...Now I don't know ? A recent post indicated that a higher NOACK could benefit intake valves in a GDI engine application due to non deposits being the evaporation make up to keep intake valves clean (or something to that affect) .
Originally Posted By: Brian123
Originally Posted By: JustN89
I'm not going to go back and try to find this, but there was a discussion recently on this topic where a paper was posted showing that timing chain wear decreases as you move from 0W-XX to 5W, and again from 5W to 10W. Maybe someone might know where that discussion was and post the link.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3161863/1
**This post is from 2013 ! ... With DEXOS 1 Gen 2 specs they address timing chain wear in all grades, so now I would think even 0W20 DEXOS 1 Gen 2 is enhanced to reduce timing chain wear ?
Originally Posted By: JustN89
I'm not going to go back and try to find this, but there was a discussion recently on this topic where a paper was posted showing that timing chain wear decreases as you move from 0W-XX to 5W, and again from 5W to 10W. Maybe someone might know where that discussion was and post the link.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3161863/1
**This post is from 2013 ! ... With DEXOS 1 Gen 2 specs they address timing chain wear in all grades, so now I would think even 0W20 DEXOS 1 Gen 2 is enhanced to reduce timing chain wear ?
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