0W 40--Mobil 1 or Royal Purple?

[dmk]

Been using M1 since my '09 Saab was new and now has 80,000 mi. I see I can easily get RP online from Jegs for under $8 per quart with free shipping-hard deal to beat.
I do about 8-10,000 mi. OCI's and the car is tuned. I know M1 can go over 14,000 mi. without a problem as I did several UOA's.

I used RP 0W 40 in my old Saab however didn't do UOA as I traded it in on current car before doing it.
I encounter subzero temps on the winter so want to stick with the 0 weight and that is the recommended weight (0W 40).

 

[dave123]

25 bucks at WM for M1 0w40 5qt jug now thats hard to beat.

 

[aquariuscsm]

Jegs I think will charge you a $9.99 "handling fee",although they say they offer free shipping,so they'll get it out of you one way or the other. You could maybe find Castrol 0W40 on sale somewhere.

 

[DragRace]

Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Jegs I think will charge you a $9.99 "handling fee",although they say they offer free shipping,so they'll get it out of you one way or the other. You could maybe find Castrol 0W40 on sale somewhere.


They offer free shipping and handling.I've bought many performance parts,etc and just recently bought 5 quarts of HPS royal purple from Jegs.

 

[SuperDave456]

I'd stick to what you have.
You can find the Mobil 1 0w40 a lot of places.
If not the Castrol 0w40 can be found, or maybe even the German Castrol 0w30, if you want to go a tad bit thinner.
(The GC 0w30 is a very thick 30 weight that has great cold flow characteristics.)

All three are great in my opinion, and can be had for less than the Royal Purple.

Boutique oils have their place, there is nothing wrong with them, but they get hard to find in the quantities necessary sometimes. Which is why I would rather stick with something that is easier to find.

 

[4D-56]

My perspective: You asked the question and gave yourself the answer within the same post, stick with what you have.

 

[gregk24]

Royal Purple is overrated and way too expensive. M1 0w40 is top notch and is priced very well. Go with M1.

 

[d00df00d]

Mobil 1. In this case there's no contest.

 

[fdcg27]

I'm with the crowd here.
No rap on RP, but M1 0W-40 is hard to beat.
What certifications does RP claim for their 0W-40?
Is the RP actually tested to meet the standards of BMW, Mercedes, Porsche and VAG?
You can't beat the performance of M1 0W-40 and the price is right.
OTOH, if you want to try something new, I'm sure that your Saab would be fine on the RP.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: fdcg27
I'm with the crowd here.
No rap on RP, but M1 0W-40 is hard to beat.
What certifications does RP claim for their 0W-40?
Is the RP actually tested to meet the standards of BMW, Mercedes, Porsche and VAG?
You can't beat the performance of M1 0W-40 and the price is right.
OTOH, if you want to try something new, I'm sure that your Saab would be fine on the RP.


This is it in a nutshell.

 

[d00df00d]

Yeah, I think every word of that is dead on.

 

[SLATRON]

The Castrol 0w40 is still be $5.49/qt at AAP with site to store pickup, if you want to use something other than the M1 for awhile.

 

[dmk]

Originally Posted By: SuperDave456
I'd stick to what you have.
You can find the Mobil 1 0w40 a lot of places.
If not the Castrol 0w40 can be found, or maybe even the German Castrol 0w30, if you want to go a tad bit thinner.
(The GC 0w30 is a very thick 30 weight that has great cold flow characteristics.)

All three are great in my opinion, and can be had for less than the Royal Purple.

Boutique oils have their place, there is nothing wrong with them, but they get hard to find in the quantities necessary sometimes. Which is why I would rather stick with something that is easier to find.


That's sorta what I was thinking Superdave and the other posters--I appreciate the feedback.
I'm a conventional marketing guy and do realize it is harder to get however more places are carrying RP but few in 0W 40 from what I've seen. This is contrary to that misleading Amway oil company...
I actually contacted RP's technical service a few years back when I did use it in my old Saab and was impressed with their professional and honest reply. Told them been using the M1 and car spec'd the GM LL 025 cert for extended drains. They surprisingly said that M1 0W 40 is very good oil and the RP will NOT do the extended drains like the M1 0W 40. They did say however in some areas I would get better protection. I jokingly asked if they had all the bogus approvals like their other boutique competitor and he laughed and obviously knew exactly what I was talking about.

Sounds logical to stay with the M1! Thanks again for the replies.

 

[nleksan]

I just wrote a long, way longer than I intended (rambling) post about my personal experience with mostly Redline, but also RP, in my BMW's. It mainly refers to my competition use, but I use them in every BMW I own and have owned in the past 8 years, including everything in my signature.

The regular RP is absolutely good oil, although the SN formula is actually not quite as good ironically as the older, but the HPS/XPR are top shelf. Redline oils are what have kept my motors alive and well through hundreds of track hours, and I trust them implicitly. M1 does not have that going for it, and I am not exactly looking to put an oil I don't trust into one of my race engines ($45k+ motor) to see if it can hold up!

Anyway, I'd recommendgyou read my post, it's in the general passenger car oil section in the "Synthetic?..." thread. I apologize in advance for the rambling. Keep in mind it's my experience, and the experience of people I know, and while it's a FACT for us, it may not be for you.

However, I will bet anything that the same motor running M1 0w40 would not survive as long, much less have ZERO wear after a 20k mile post build teardown!

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: nleksan
The regular RP is absolutely good oil, although the SN formula is actually not quite as good ironically as the older, but the HPS/XPR are top shelf.

At least with respect to the RP 0w-40 in question, that (and the 5w-40) are a bit different. The other grades were SL and had Synerlec. These have been upgraded to SN (SN/GF-5 where applicable) and the Synerlec is gone. The 0w-40 and 5w-40 was and still is SM. The former never had Synerlec, but the latter did and does. Why there was the difference between the 0w-40 and 5w-40, I don't know. They were both marketed primarily as Euro oils, rather than one as a Euro and the other as an HDEO, or anything like that.

 

[d00df00d]

Given the choice between factory endorsements and Internet endorsements, and lacking any real data... I'd think factory endorsements would be the way to go.

 

[nleksan]

Yeah, it's the 5w40 marketed as the "Euro" oil, and while I have enough stashed that I haven't bought any in some time, I had just assumed it was reformulated with the rest.
As far is that weight in particular goes, it's the only oil I would consider running past MY "comfort zone" in OCI length. Even then, because of the extensive modifications to my newest Bimmers (including CSL Intake/AFE dual dry intake/AFE dry cone filter), I still prefer to go 5-7.5k at most to keep Si levels down.

I am only sharing anecdotal evidence, but I trust RP 5w40 and RL oils more than anything else, because if they can not only stand up to track use but literally eliminate wear running at Redline for hours at a time, they can withstand daily use just fine IMO.

 

[d00df00d]

Genuinely glad you've found such success with RP and RL. No sarcasm.

What's at issue is the other half of what you've said, namely that Mobil 1 0w-40 is somehow worse. That seems... hard to believe.

 

[nleksan]

It's not that it's worse, it's simply that it's not been able to stand up to the same kind of beating as RL. Now, on the street, things are likely different for most drivers, especially if you are wanting extended OCI's in which case M1 would likely serve you as well or better. Sorry if I wasn't clear.

 

[d00df00d]

And how do you know it wasn't able to hold up? That's the important part.