'01 Ranger 2WD Pinion Seal Replacement

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2001 Ford Ranger XLT 4.0L 5R55E 2WD 150k miles I need to replace the pinion seal as it is leaking. I guess there's a small (?) chance it's something else but that is typically the issue I think. I've got the OEM pinion seal, nut, deflector (oil slinger), & new diff fluid/gasket. Will I need a new crush sleeve (collapsible spacer) or will using calipes to measure the distance from the end of the shaft to the nut suffice? The below video seemed pretty decent, but if you have any tips or other (better) videos, then I would appreciate it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=scb_FcHtMZM Thank you.
 
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Guilford, CT
Originally Posted by benjamming
2001 Ford Ranger XLT 4.0L 5R55E 2WD 150k miles I need to replace the pinion seal as it is leaking. I guess there's a small (?) chance it's something else but that is typically the issue I think. I've got the OEM pinion seal, nut, deflector (oil slinger), & new diff fluid/gasket. Will I need a new crush sleeve (collapsible spacer) or will using calipes to measure the distance from the end of the shaft to the nut suffice? The below video seemed pretty decent, but if you have any tips or other (better) videos, then I would appreciate it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=scb_FcHtMZM Thank you.
What exactly IS the issue you have?
 
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2,028
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WY
I don't know about your specific vehicle but in many cases you need a torque multiplier to get the needed force on this pinion crush washer install.
 
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USA
If the input shaft has side play there is a bigger problem than just the seal. Check this before taking apart.
 
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842
Location
Florida
All you have to do is drop the drive shaft, tap off the yoke, R & R the seal, replace the yoke & drive shaft, top off fluid and you're on your way. You wont need a crush collar because the ring and pinion will not need to come out to replace the pinion seal. In order to get to the crush collar you have to remove the pinion, which is an entire tear down of the rear end, axles, center section, diff, brakes everything, NOT nescessary. The pinion seal is leaking just replace it and keep and eye on it. No need to tear down the entire axle assembly. Your job should take you a half hour.
 
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Missouri
With the wheels off and brakes disassembled to prevent drag you need to check the rotational torque required to keep the differential turning by turning at the pinion nut. When reinstalling the nut tighten it until there is no play in the shaft. Then continue tightening until the rotational torque is back at the original reading. If you over torque the pinion nut you will need a new crush sleeve. This is the technique that the Ford workshop manual will tell you to use. Many people just tighten it up and call it good enough, probably not the best technique for long bearing life.
 
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RI
Originally Posted by cb_13
With the wheels off and brakes disassembled to prevent drag you need to check the rotational torque required to keep the differential turning by turning at the pinion nut. When reinstalling the nut tighten it until there is no play in the shaft. Then continue tightening until the rotational torque is back at the original reading. If you over torque the pinion nut you will need a new crush sleeve. This is the technique that the Ford workshop manual will tell you to use. Many people just tighten it up and call it good enough, probably not the best technique for long bearing life.
IIRC the target is 5 inch lbs more rotational drag upon reassembly compared to initial measurement.
 
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MN
I've never gone through all that work when doing a pinion seal on a Ford rear diff. Just remove the D/S, mark the nut and pinion shaft with white out, count how many threads are visible, and zip it off. When you reinstall, you just get it close by the thread count then sure it up with your paint marks. Easy peasy.
 
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northern Alabama
Thread starter
Originally Posted by mk378
If the input shaft has side play there is a bigger problem than just the seal. Check this before taking apart.
Thank you. Good point.
Originally Posted by cb_13
With the wheels off and brakes disassembled to prevent drag you need to check the rotational torque required to keep the differential turning by turning at the pinion nut. When reinstalling the nut tighten it until there is no play in the shaft. Then continue tightening until the rotational torque is back at the original reading. If you over torque the pinion nut you will need a new crush sleeve. This is the technique that the Ford workshop manual will tell you to use. Many people just tighten it up and call it good enough, probably not the best technique for long bearing life.
Yep. What is the typical torque values that can be expected? I don't have a dial torque wrench but could probably borrow one but would need to know range.
Originally Posted by 14Accent
I've never gone through all that work when doing a pinion seal on a Ford rear diff. Just remove the D/S, mark the nut and pinion shaft with white out, count how many threads are visible, and zip it off. When you reinstall, you just get it close by the thread count then sure it up with your paint marks. Easy peasy.
But Ford says to use a new nut which would no longer have the white paint mark. :dunno:
 
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842
Location
Florida
If you are replacing the pinion seal due to a leak, why is there even a discussion of removing anything but the drive shaft and the yoke? This is a Ranger with an 8.8, so nothing needs to be taken apart to replace the pinion seal. Talking about the crust collar being replaced requires complete tear down, including removing the pinion gear, axles, differential etc, which is not even close to nescessary for pinion seal replacement. This is a 30 minute job tops.
 
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1,161
Location
Missouri
Originally Posted by 1978elcamino
If you are replacing the pinion seal due to a leak, why is there even a discussion of removing anything but the drive shaft and the yoke? This is a Ranger with an 8.8, so nothing needs to be taken apart to replace the pinion seal. Talking about the crust collar being replaced requires complete tear down, including removing the pinion gear, axles, differential etc, which is not even close to nescessary for pinion seal replacement. This is a 30 minute job tops.
Because I was discussing the proper procedure from the workshop manual. How you choose to do it is up to you. If you want to pull it apart, slap it back together and run it up to 3 ugga dugga's with an impact no one on this forum is going to turn you in to the maintenance police. I have had to replace crush sleeves due to inexperienced techs using that exact method. So I recommend people doing it by the book, if you've done 100+ pinion seal replacements you probably know when to stop tightening it before reaching that point.
 
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Location
Perris, CA
Originally Posted by 14Accent
I've never gone through all that work when doing a pinion seal on a Ford rear diff. Just remove the D/S, mark the nut and pinion shaft with white out, count how many threads are visible, and zip it off. When you reinstall, you just get it close by the thread count then sure it up with your paint marks. Easy peasy.
This is how I did it on my XTerra, it's been fine for a year and a half since then.
 
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